Fall’s harvest of color is reaped along New England’s coast
In Nantucket, lovely shops are lined on cobblestone streets. Cyclists are seen
scooting along every which way as bikers enjoy 25 miles of paved bike paths.
The homes of year-round residents, all painted Nantucket gray, look elegant
and solemn.
Photos by Gloria Hayes Kremer
Arabellas full sails waft under balmy skies off Cape Cod, Mass., facing
page. Right: Newport, R.I., boasts a picturesque harbor of colorful boats and
yachts yearlong. Bottom left: On Cutty Hunk Island, a clam bake is prepared.
A repertoire of lobster, clams, oysters and chowder are thoroughly enjoyed.
Bottom right: Gail Hughes of Morristown joins Arabella passengers as they enjoy
a lobster bake on unspoiled Cutty Hunk Island.
—>
By: GLORIA HAYES KREMER
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| A dream of a sail…and foliage, too! "I have never taken a cruise," begins Gail Hughes of Morristown, "so I thought opting for a sailing trip would be a good introduction to being at sea. And I was right!" Ms. Hughes had chosen a six-night cruise on the luxury schooner yacht, Arabella, which sails along the New England coast departing from the historic town of Newport, RI. The fall is a wonderful time to experience this sailing adventure for the boat skims the New England coast and visits islands where the glorious shades of fall foliage are slowly bursting upon the shores. Before boarding the Arabella, guests can tour Newport (the sailing capital of the country), with is turn-of-the-century magnificent mansions, Newport harbor teaming with boats and yachts, the Tennis Hall of Fame and a picturesque Cliff Walk. Arabella is a three-masted schooner, 160 feet long, which carries 44 passengers in 22 air-conditioned cabins, each with a private bath, satellite television and a porthole. (There is a hot water spa on deck.) It is the only sailing cruise yacht of its size sailing the waters of southern New England, just as Americas forefathers did in past centuries. The Arabella is also the only U.S. Coast Guard approved sailing cruise ship in the British and U.S. Virgin Islands, its winter itinerary through Caribbean waters. After watching a glorious sunset over Narragansett Bay, the adventure begins as passengers are introduced to each other. Then everyone meets the very capable and friendly eight-man crew headed by Capt. Joel Kouyumjian, from North Andover, Mass., who has more than 30 years experience at sea. His wife, Andi, is the creative chef who prepares tasty breakfasts and lunches each day. (Passengers go ashore each evening for dinner at a restaurant of their choice.) Everyone settles into their cabins, snug but efficient, and then joins a welcoming cocktail party (sunset cocktails and hors doeuvres are served every night at 5 p.m. in the salon). The next morning, Ms. Hughes comments, "I spent a restful night and loved the gentle roll of the boat. I never realized how intoxicating the salt air, the breezes and the sea could be." A hearty buffet breakfast is devoured by the passengers and a hot dish accompanies each days offerings. In the morning, the sails go up (off goes the motor whenever possible depending on the weather, to the delight of die-hard sailing enthusiasts) and the Arabella sails to Marthas Vineyard. This popular summer resort island, just 7 miles off the Cape Cod coast, hosts generations of vacation society year after year. The main town on Marthas Vineyard is Edgartown, bustling all the time. The beach front avenue in the town of Oak Bluffs is lined with gingerbread-trimmed cottages. (The Flying Horses antique carousel is a popular attraction for families.) Passengers may choose to visit a beach, go biking along miles of beautiful bike paths, shop at the charming boutiques or just stroll through the picturesque is land. A pleasant dining spot in Oak Bluffs is the Pequot Hotel; in Edgartown, the Tuscany Inns La Cucina has cozy seating in the courtyard. The salon on the Arabella is the gathering spot on the boat, not only for dining, but often for playing cards and games, studying maps, reading, watching a video movie or just socializing. Bob Weisz from New York and Florida, is constantly roaming the boat. He says, "Im a sailing fiend and I just love to be on the water as the sails are fluttering in the wind." At the edge of the salon is an important area. This is where Capt. Kouyumjian, along with Steve Connett, the engineer, tracks weather conditions and other pertinent information. Passengers enjoy learning sea lingo as the captain explains the meaning of halyard, mainsheet, spinnaker, jib even as he is handling a variety of winds with deft skill. Each day, Capt. Kouyumjian goes to the salon bulletin board to inform passengers of the days weather, sailing schedule and excursions from the trip. Other members of the crew can often be found searching the computer for information (they all seem very efficient and well-versed in the ways of the sea). Next lap of the journey is the sail to Nantucket, a beautiful island 30 miles out to sea which was once the worlds center of the whaling industry and inspiration for Melvilles "Moby Dick." Many passengers choose to take the one-and-a half-hour Island Adventure Tour, with Gus, a local guide, who seems to know every inch of the island. He drives near dunes, historic landmarks, private coves and cranberry bogs; he points out beach grass that was planted to stabilize the dunes. He passes Sankaty Head Lighthouse, cemeteries of the 1700s and calls his vehicle an air-conditioned "Center Isle" stand up van for comfort. Gus advises everyone, "If you enjoy fall foliage, it is spectacular on Polpis Road." In the town of Nantucket, lovely shops are lined on cobblestone streets. Cyclists are seen scooting along every which way for bikers enjoy 25 miles of paved bike paths. The homes of year-round residents, all painted Nantucket gray (its the law) look elegant and solemn. On lonely roads leading to the end of the island are undisturbed, sandy beaches and private coves for residents and visitors. At night, restaurants are crowded with visitors, many of whom come for the day on the ferry from Cape Cod. Hungry for duck? Le Lacaguedoc offers an eclectic menu (featuring duck and lobster). Another fine restaurant is The Martin House, an old sea captains home from 1750. Two nights are spent on Nantucket for there does seem to be a lot to do and miles to explore. The trusty Arabella launch shuttles passengers back and forth from the boat at different times to accommodate everyone. The next day sees a long sail to Provincetown the happy-go-lucky town at the very tip of Cape Cod that hangs 25 miles out to sea where dry land ends and the endless sea begins. If the weather permits, Capt. Kouyumjian takes the Arabella to an area on the open sea where whale watching is always dependable. (If the sea is not smooth, the captain offers guests a complimentary whale watching sail from a sightseeing boat in Provincetown.) Those who took the boat speak of their excitement at seeing humpback whales frolicking in the water. The Provincetown Visitors Center is helpful with maps, videos, brochures and suggestions. Along the Beach Forest there are wonderful walking trails. A Provincetown Trolley Tour is a pleasant one-hour tour of the fascinating locale with all manner of artistic and varied lifestyles living peacefully with one another. The trolley car guide points out interesting landmarks such as the place the Pilgrims first landed. He notes, "Eugene ONeill lived here in 1914 when he wrote "Anna Christie" and "Strange Interlude." This is where ONeills first plays were staged in our Playhouse. You know, he won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1936. ONeill loved this place." In front of the town library, a clown does balloon tricks, always capturing attention from kids and parents alike. Along the main street in town, a diverse variety of shops offers something for everyone. One colorful store, "Shop Therapy," is a jumble of funky things, "Utilities" has everything for the kitchen, "Fresh Produce" is a line of childrens wear. At Bubaloos a sort of tavern, night spot a seven piece band invites audience musicians to join with the swinging ensemble. Theres live make that alive entertainment til all hours of the dawn. The last nights event of the sailing trip is eagerly awaited by everyone. "Tonight," Capt. Kouyumjian had advised everyone, "we will have a real New England clam bake actually a lobster bake on the tiny island of Cutty Hunk." As the boat arrives at a simple dock in the late afternoon, one expects Robinson Crusoe to be standing there. This little jewel of the Elizabethan Islands is almost deserted, only 26 residents live here year-round; in the summertime, the population swells slightly. There are two small general stores, one restaurant and one pizza take-out, a one-room schoolhouse (for the two children who attend, a few other children are home-taught by a parent) and a library. There are lots of walking paths through the easily traversed island which is just 2.5-by-.75 miles. There is a bird and wildlife preserve and wonderful scenery for naturalists to enjoy. But boaters, weekend cruising yachts and sports fishermen sometimes dock here, to relax, go to the beach, or just explore what looks like a scene from long ago or perhaps the television show "Survivor." Now for the piece de resistance. Jordon Trautman, from Hudson, Ohio, brings his Cutty Hunk Shellfish Farms personnel to a spot on the beach with picnic tables, gas stoves, and more, and out come oysters and clams, clam chowder, corn on the cob, potatoes and the luscious lobsters about to be cooked. It is a delicious culinary finale to this New England adventure. The final mornings sail takes the Arabella through the man-made Cape Cod Canal, a waterway that saves an extra 100 miles for boats cruising to the end of the Cape. Opened in 1914, the 17-mile canal is frequently filled with a flotilla of small pleasure boats, ships, trawlers and tankers. The two steel bridges that span the canal, the Sagamore and Bourne bridges, are actually owned and operated by the Army Corps of Engineers and are the Capes only link by road to the mainland. As passengers enjoy the last sailing day of the journey, the town of Buzzards Bay can be seen; it grew up on the banks of the canal after it was opened. The morning departure looms ahead, and an exhilarating sail back to historic Newport ends with the captains farewell brunch. As passengers exchange good-byes Ms. Hughes is heard to comment, "Ive got my sea legs now…and I cant wait to sail again." Arabella sails from mid-June through mid-October. Prices for four and six night cruises range from $949 to $1,849 per person, based on double occupancy and include all daytime meals, one evening clam bake and optional excursions. From December through May, Arabella sails the Caribbean on six night excursions through the British and U.S. Virgin Islands. For information, call (800) 395-1343 or write Classic Cruises of Newport, Christies Landing, Newport, RI 02840; www.atlanticstars.com. |
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