Cocina del Sol

This Frenchtown eatery has stimulating Mexican food with personality and Southern California style — who could ask for anything more?

By: Antoinette Buckley

   A little more than a year ago, Cocina del Sol quietly opened its doors in a discrete underground location below an artistic gift shop in Frenchtown. The steps leading to the restaurant’s entrance are lined with old stone, making you feel as if you are about to enter a dungeon. Instead, the stairway segues to a small world of color and a fetching personality.
   Cocina del Sol serves Mexican its own way with a little Californian flair. It is one of the few Mexican restaurants that changes its menu with the seasons. The menu is concise, offering basic categories including burritos, fajitas, enchiladas and crispy tacos, which are wittily labeled "sol food." The fillings vary, but the same ingredients crop up in different ways throughout the meal.
   Keeping things simple like this assures freshness, which is the most distinguishable characteristic of the vibrant food at Cocina del Sol. Everything is made from scratch. They make their own guacamole, starting with the freshest variety of avocados available at the time, and the black beans (the only type of bean used) start out dried, not canned.
   The down-to-earth, mix-and-match décor speaks truth. The tables are a hodgepodge of Formica, polished wood and rustic wood slats in all shapes and sizes. This is paired with standard wood chairs as well as contemporary Lucite slat-back chairs. To further the decorative disparities, Medieval-looking metal torches frame the entrance to "The Grotto" (Spanish for cave), which brings back the dungeon feeling. This stone alcove, fitting quite a few tables, is a popular spot. In the main room, I admired the crisp look of cubed paper lampshades in different colors covering light bulbs that hang from the ceiling.
   Metallic stars and bold contemporary paintings decorate the rest of the room and spots of color fill the nooks and crannies. This trendy compilation is invigorating. Apparently, I’m not alone in this thought. At the entrance, a blue-green distressed wooden bench sees a lot of traffic as it accommodates the many diners who wait to be seated on weekends.

Staff photo by Frank Wojciechowski

The down-to-earth, mix-and-match décor speaks truth. The tables are a hodgepodge of Formica, polished wood and rustic wood slats in all shapes and sizes.

   Kids are not treated like second-class citizens. There is a small kids’ section of the menu that bypasses the mindless packaged macaroni and cheese and greasy chicken fingers. Only freshly prepared Mexican dishes that are toned down to kid style are offered.
   The chips and salsa that begin every meal are addictive. The salsa is understated, with a light-handed seasoning of bright red chunks of tomatoes fringed with onion and cilantro.
   An appetizer of sweet potato fries ($5) came to the table as a wiry mountain of shoestrings. We ungracefully pulled out clumps of shoestrings that fused crispy exteriors with soft, sweet interiors. Seasoned with sea salt and vinegar, this starter was simplicity at its best.
   The house’s quesadilla appetizer ($6) incorporated cheese and the same salsa from our first eye-opening bites of the evening between fresh flour tortillas that were lightly fried. A generous amount of salsa in the quesadilla kept it on the lighter side, accompanied by a dollop of seasoned sour cream. Chicken fajitas ($12) lacked only the accompaniment of cheese. Cocina del Sol serves it without. Instead, the plate is loaded with blackened chicken strips cooked with sweet wedges of onion and the occasional whole garlic clove.
   Sides of black beans and Mexican rice, along with the usual sour cream, guacamole and lettuce, keep lots of different flavors and textures going on the plate. No cheese takes some getting used to, but requesting it is always an option.

Staff photo by Frank Wojciechowski

The steps leading to the restaurant’s entrance are lined with old stone.

   While a special of crispy fried catfish taco with chipotle salsa ($15) sounded intriguing and a little fancier than anything else on the menu, I opted for the simpler route in keeping with the restaurant’s apparent forte. I’m glad I did, since I can highly recommend the rock shrimp burrito ($14) from the regular menu. A flour tortilla was generously stuffed with white rice, black beans, substantial rock shrimp and a touch of cheese, forming a neat and portly package. The beans and cheese offered comfort, the shrimp gave spirit and the rice filled in the holes. Unlike other burritos I’ve had, where the components are layered on top of each other, these were incorporated, forming a moist texture and beautifully cohesive flavor. A grilled pineapple salsa offered a sweet break and the accompanying homemade guacamole was smooth and bright.
   Alcoholic beverages are not served. You are welcome to bring your own wine or beer that will be poured unassumingly into juice glasses. Cocina del Sol serves cans of Jumex fruit juices, a popular brand in Mexico, and the New Jersey-brewed Boylan line of sodas, mostly in fruit flavors. The elite-looking glass bottles are reminiscent of the old Coca Cola bottles, adding another touch of charm.
   Desserts ($4) are made on the premises by Brian Scott of the reputable Anton’s at the Swan in Lambertville. A deep, rich chocolate cake served with a cloud of fresh whipped cream was dreamy, as every bite seemed to miraculously disappear in your mouth. Mango torte satisfied the tropical craving and the traditional flan was very well done.
   Cocina del Sol is so appealing because it wears its personality on its sleeve. It’s efficient and easy-going service fits perfectly. Such fresh and stimulating food doesn’t often come so cheap. My compliments to husband-and-wife team and first-time owners Justin (also head chef) and Kate Kunzmann.
For directions to Cocina del Sol, click here.