IN THE KITCHEN by Pat Tanner: Currently available at area supermarkets and fish stores, shad’s sweet, tender pink flesh is most often compared to bluefish, only more flavorful.
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Illustration by Judy Martin
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As it has for the past 21 years, Lambertville became a town mad about shad during the last weekend of April. Shad, the largest member of the herring family, return here each spring from the mid-Atlantic coast to spawn in their birthplace, the Delaware River. Lambertville’s Shad Fest draws 10,000 people annually for a two-day celebration of shad, the Delaware, local arts and crafts, live music and children’s activities.
Since shad is not everyone’s idea of street fair food (like catfish, people either love it or hate it), local civic organizations and Lambertville’s restaurants also dish up things like hot dogs, burgers, London broil, crab cakes, funnel cakes, cotton candy, ice cream, lemonade and birch beer.
But there is always plenty of alosa sapidissima (Latin for "most savory shad") in the form of shad chowder, shad sandwiches, shad cakes even a complete shad dinner down at the river. On the first day of Shad Fest 2002, Lambertville Station restaurant alone served up 400 pounds of shad fillets in the form of blackened shad sandwiches or "shadwiches."
Shad fillets and roe are currently available at area supermarkets and fish stores, although the specimens there are likely to be from the Chesapeake, not the Delaware. Shad’s sweet, tender pink flesh is most often compared to bluefish, only more flavorful. It is rare to encounter whole shad in the market, since this fish has literally hundreds of bones.
For the shad salad recipe below, Amy Lettiere, chef at Lambertville Station, smokes her own fillets, as smoked shad is difficult to find. (Purveyors of Russian foodstuffs are the best bet.) But her recipe is also good with any smoked fish, such as trout, or with fresh shad fillets which have been baked, poached, or broiled. (The thin-ish fillets take 5 to 6 minutes in a preheated broiler. First brush the broiler pan and the cut side of the fillets with olive oil.) Ms. Lettiere’s recipe for shad roe takes this rich, indulgent ingredient and makes it downright luxurious.
Ed Marra and his wife, Lynn, were the original owners of Bell’s Union Street restaurant, which is still a local favorite. Mr. Marra uses whole shad for the Provençal-style recipe below, which has been adapted here for fillets.
SHAD SALAD
Amy Lettiere, executive chef Lambertville Station
4 pounds smoked shad fillet, or baked or poached fresh shad fillet
8 stalks celery, diced small
1 jumbo red onion, diced small
2 cups mayonnaise
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon mesquite seasoning
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 teaspoon ground coriander
Combine all ingredients except for shad. Adjust seasonings if necessary. Gently flake shad fillet and fold into mixture. Serve on favorite bread or roll.
ROASTED SHAD ROE
Amy Lettiere, executive chef Lambertville Station
1 set (1 pair) shad roe
Up to 1 pound applewood smoked bacon
1 cup mandarin orange segments
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 cups heavy cream
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper to taste
1. Preheat oven to 275 degrees and roast the roe until it is firm to the touch, about 15 to 20 minutes. When it is cool enough to handle, wrap the roe completely with the bacon and place on a sheet tray.
2. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Bake the roe until the bacon becomes crisp, about 5 to 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, in a saucepan heat the mandarin oranges with the lemon juice. Cook over medium heat until the orange is macerated and most of the liquid is evaporated. Add the heavy cream and continue cooking until the bubbles become thick. Whisk in the butter. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour the sauce over the shad roe and serve.
ED MARRA’S SHAD PROVENÇAL
3 sliced pounds fresh shad fillets
1 pound Spanish onions, sliced
1 pound plum tomatoes, preferably fresh, cut in half lengthwise
5 cloves garlic, sliced
15 oil-cured olives, sliced
4 tablespoons capers
Salt and pepper to taste
Dried oregano and basil to taste
2 cups white wine
½ cup olive oil
Juice of 2 lemons
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place fillets skin side down in a well-oiled ceramic or glass baking dish, large enough to hold them in one layer.
2. Spread evenly over the fillets the onions, tomatoes, and capers. Pour white wine around the pan. Pour a little oil on each fillet and sprinkle with salt, pepper, herbs, and lemon juice. Cover with foil and bake 15 to 20 minutes or until fish is flaky.
Pat Tanner discusses food and dining on the radio each Saturday on "Dining Today," from 9 a.m. to 10 a.m. over MoneyTalk 1350 AM.