IN THE KITCHEN by Pat Tanner: If you’ve never had a sweet treat that combines the seemingly disparate ingredients of chocolate and hot chile peppers, you’re in for a pleasant surprise.
!["Illustration]("/local/Z/ZWIRE1091/zwire/images/121702kitchen.gif")
Illustration by Judy Martin
|
My epiphany came when I tasted the chocolate-chile ice cream of Walter Leffler, who is executive chef at The Hilton at Short Hills. More recently I discovered Wicked Hot Chocolate, a rich, dark mix of chocolate, allspice, cinnamon, ground sweet ancho chile peppers and smoked ground chipotle peppers. Created by master pastry chef Jacques Torres, canisters of the hot chocolate mix are sold via his Web site, www.mrchocolate.com. Or you can make your own using the first recipe given below.
Versions of the brownie recipe, which appears to have originated in Great Britain, are found all over the Internet, and for good reason. One version includes the addition of one cup of caramelized pecans, but you can add the nuts of your choice.
The final recipe comes via two great names in pastry: Nick Malgieri, director of pastry at New York’s Institute of Culinary Education, and Pierre Hermé, world-renowned pastry chef. Mr. Hermé favors Valrhona chocolate, but any high-quality bittersweet chocolate will do. The recipe may seem long, but that’s only because Mr. Malgieri gives exacting but easy-to-follow instructions.
Note that the cooking time for the cakes is short, so for safety reasons use eggs from a source you have confidence in.
MEXICAN SPICED HOT CHOCOLATE MIX
Chef Kathy Casey of Food Studios and Dish D’ Lish, Seattle
1¼ cups superfine sugar
1 teaspoon almond extract
¾ cup Dutch process cocoa powder
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
4 teaspoons ancho chile powder (see note)
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1. In a medium bowl, whisk sugar and almond extract together thoroughly. Add remaining ingredients and whisk together thoroughly.
2. Store mix in a clean glass jar with a tight lid at room temperature for up to three months. Shake thoroughly before using.
Makes 2 cups of mix, enough for 10 to 12 servings.
Note: Bobby Flay’s ancho chile powder is available online at www.privateharvest.com.
CHOCOLATE CHILE BROWNIES
4 ounces unsweetened chocolate
10 tablespoons unsalted butter
1½ cups superfine sugar
3 extra large eggs
1¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup flour
2 teaspoons red chile powder
Generous pinch of salt
1 cup nuts, such as caramelized pecans (optional)
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Generously butter and lightly flour a 9 x 13-inch baking pan. Melt chocolate and butter in a heavy-bottomed pan over low heat, or in a double boiler. Stir well and let cool a few minutes.
2. Beat mixture with a wooden spoon until blended. Stir in sugar and mix well.
3. Beat eggs and vanilla into the batter until well blended. Stir in flour, ground chile and salt until just mixed. Stir in nuts, if using, pour batter into pan, and spread evenly.
4. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes. Cool completely before cutting into squares. Makes 24 two-inch square brownies.
PIERRE HERMÉ’S WARM CHOCOLATE CHILE CAKES WITH CARAMELIZED BANANAS
from Chocolate by Nick Malgieri, HarperCollins 1998
Chocolate chile cakes:
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
½ teaspoon finely chopped fresh habañero (Scotch bonnet) pepper
1 large egg, at room temperature
3 large egg yolks, at room temperature
2 tablespoons sugar
5 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted and cooled
Caramelized bananas:
2 large ripe bananas
2 tablespoons lemon juice, strained
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons sugar
6 four-ounce ramekins or custard cups, buttered and sugared and set on a jellyroll pan
1. To make the cakes, combine the butter and pepper in a small saucepan and place over low heat to melt. Remove from heat. Cool the butter until you can comfortably hold the pan on the palm of your hand.
2. Use a rubber spatula to stir together in a medium bowl the egg, the yolks, and the sugar. Do not beat air into the mixture. Stir in the melted chocolate, still being careful not to aerate, then the melted butter, little by little, until the batter is smooth. Fill the molds and set them aside at room temperature until serving time, no more than several hours.
3. Peel the bananas and cut them diagonally into 1/4-inch slices. Toss with the lemon juice. Melt the butter in a nonstick sauté pan over high heat. Add the bananas and sugar and cook, tossing the bananas in the pan for about 2 minutes to caramelize them slightly. Slide pan from heat but leave bananas where they are so that they can be reheated later while the chocolate cakes are baking.
4. About 20 minutes before you are ready to bake the cakes, set a rack at the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.
5. Begin to reheat the bananas over very low heat and place the cakes in the oven. Bake them for exactly 8 minutes, not a second longer. Do not open the oven while the cakes are baking.
6. To serve: using oven mitts, immediately turn the ramekins over onto 6 warm dessert plates. Lift off the ramekins and surround the cakes with the warm caramelized banana pieces. Serve immediately.
Serves 6.