Sophie’s Bistro

Francophiles, rejoice! Here is a bistro in Somerset with Provençal décor and selections from beef bourguignon, bouillabaisse and cassoulet to moules mariniere and coquilles St. Jacques.

By: Pat Tanner

Sophie’s Bistro

700 Hamilton St.

Somerset

(732) 545-7778
Food: Good

Service: Well-paced and pleasant

Prices: Moderate

Cuisine: French bistro

Ambiance: Tres French bistro

Hours: Lunch: Fri. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; Dinner: Tues.-Thurs., Sun. 5-9:30 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 5-10:30 p.m.

Essentials: Major credit cards accepted; liquor license; smoking in bar only; wheelchair accessible; reservations recommended on weekends.

Directions

   French bistro — the term alone brings a smile to my lips. So I couldn’t wait to dine at Sophie’s Bistro, located on the Somerset-New Brunswick border, which is celebrating its first birthday.
   My anticipation heightened when I stepped into the place. The décor resounds with just-so accoutrements: tin ceiling, dim lighting and a three-sided bar backed by a wall of wood compartments holding bottles of vermouth, Pernod and, undoubtedly, Lillet. Simple wood tables are left uncovered in the barroom, while in the rear dining room they sport perky Provençal cloths topped by glass. Both rooms are rimmed with vintage oak sideboards and china cabinets filled with doodads from Provence (some for sale), and the walls are replete with reproductions of vintage French ads and strips of mirror.
   The menu is authentic, too, and is enhanced with daily blackboard food and wine specials. Onion soup, beef bourguignon, steak frites and coq au vin are always available, while Friday features bouillabaisse and Saturday, cassoulet. Prices are moderate, with only one dish, steak with green peppercorns, topping the $20 mark, but just barely. When these dishes hit the mark, they are very good indeed. Overall, though, the food is likeable and comfortable, but provides few fireworks.
   The wines are a highlight: interesting, well chosen and moderately priced. A lovely Chardonnay — Chassagne Montrachet from Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot — tops the list at $65, but most bottles are in the $20 to $30 range. House wines include George Duboeuf Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah ($5, $12 and $17 by the glass, half-liter and liter, respectively). On our visit, we opted for two of the day’s specials, both winners at $6 per glass. Chateau de Paraza is a fruity red blend from the Languedoc region of France that includes Carignan grapes, while a fragrant white from Clos Michet in the Loire is a mix of Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. The owner of Sophie’s Bistro, Peter Mack, was not present during our visit, but host duties were masterfully filled by his father, a gregarious gent who especially loves to discuss the wines.

"Interior

TimeOFF/Frank Wojciechowski
The décor resounds with just-so accoutrements. Simple wood tables are left uncovered in the barroom, while in the rear dining room they sport perky Provençal cloths topped by glass.


   We chose to start our meal with classic bistro fare, including a superb paté de campagne ($8), comprising a thick, generous slab about the size, shape and color of homemade whole-wheat bread. Its coarse texture and no-holds-barred flavor are enhanced with accompaniments of cornichon, niçoise olives and a mound of frisée nicely dressed with tart vinaigrette. Moules mariniere ($9) is another classic presentation. I give it points for its generous portion and for the mussels’ white-wine broth that features as much shallot as it does garlic. I wish Sophie’s supplied better-quality French bread to sop it up with, though. Fondue de fromage ($5) is an over-the-top starter of bubbling cheeses and slices of potato in a gratin dish. Great for cold weather but be ready to share or there will be no room for anything else.
   We were happy we left room for the coquilles St. Jacques à la Parisienne ($16.50) with its eight large, sweet sea scallops enveloped by the richest, creamiest white-wine sauce. Unfortunately, the dish comes with a mound of dry, undercooked white rice that even the sauce can’t rescue. Magret de canard ($17.50) came with the same rice, as well as extremely al dente haricots verts. I enjoyed the slices of duck breast in a lovely but sweet cassis sauce. I did not enjoy the steak in the steak au poivre vert ($20.50), despite its opulent, tasty cream sauce of cracked green peppercorns and Cognac. The 10-ounce steak was rimmed with chewy fat and gristle, but even after that was disposed with, the resulting meat suffered from a mealy texture.
   We ate our meal under less than optimal conditions. Because a large party had booked almost the entire back dining room, we were forced to dine in the bar, where we were intermittently engulfed in cigarette smoke — much too much authenticity for me. The birthday party was ebullient to say the least, which made for a lot of joyful noise that only hindered conversation. (You are not likely to encounter these conditions, especially if you request a table in the back room when making reservations.)
   For dessert, a model tarte Tatin ($5) can’t be beat, except perhaps by the trois crepes ($5): three tender, lemon-flavored crepes draped over balls of excellent vanilla ice cream and generously drizzled with chocolate sauce. Crème brulée, crème caramel, lemon tart and chocolate cake with an oozing center round out the appealing dessert list. Espresso lovers should not pass up the terrific cup served here.
Pat Tanner’s reviews can be heard on Dining Today, Sat. 9-10 a.m. on MoneyTalk 1350 AM.
For directions to Sophie’s Bistro, click here.