Colonial Farms Gourmet Foods

A spring picnic starts at a specialty food market in Washington Crossing, Pa.

By: Tom and Kate O’Neill

Colonial Farms

Gourmet Foods

1108 Yaylorsville Road

Washington Crossing, Pa.

(215) 493-1548
Food: Good to very good (expecially foods cooked on site)

Service: Frinedly

Prices: Moderate

Ambiance: Gourmet food market

Hours: Mon.-Fri. 6:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m., Sat.-Sub. 6:30 a.m.-7 p.m.

Essentials: Two picnic tables on the front porch offer customers the convenience of on-site outdoor eating convenience; no liquor license; wheelchair accessible.

Directions

   With spring in the air, we decided to have our first picnic of the year. We called a trio of friends, Linda, Valerie and John, who were equally eager for lunch al fresco. Boots, our poodle, was ready for a spring break, too.
   Our first stop was Colonial Farms Gourmet Foods in Washington Crossing, Pa. The market is convenient to several parks and boasts a wide selection of foods — a mixture of everyday brands and imported specialties and items prepared on site by Executive Chef Mary Angelakis. A familiar landmark at the Taylorsville Road location, Colonial Farms was completely refurbished last year. The proprietors also own Olive’s on Witherspoon Street in Princeton.
   From the generous delicatessen counter we chose a truffle paté ($15/pound). Also into the cart went asparagus vinaigrette ($6.99/pound), salad niçoise ($8.99/pound), a chick pea-artichoke salad ($5.69/pound), tabbouleh ($5.99/pound), and fresh mozzarella ($6/98/pound) to which we added sweet red pepper slices ($6.98/pound). For the fish course, we chose poached salmon ($10.99/pound). For the more traditional picnickers, we added cold cuts, cooked and prepared at Colonial Farms: ham, roast beef and tasty smoked turkey (all $7.98/pound). And from the wide cheese selection, we picked two traditional Greek varieties, kefalograviera ($7.99/pound) and kasera ($6.69/pound).
   From the market’s wide choice of beverages, we purchased Snapple iced tea and Honest Tea Moroccan mist, with a nice hint of mint, ($1.25-$1.99/bottle). Wine would best accompany this lunch but is not permitted in public parks.
   Across the river, in New Jersey’s Washington Crossing State Park, we found a free table in the grove near the Open Air Theater. Surrounded by families with children enjoying the playground, we spread out our tablecloth, then covered it with our buffet.
   Starting with the paté, we found it superb: rich and livery, with a peppery aftertaste that perfectly complemented our Colonial Farms baguettes. Specially baked in Hoboken, N.J., the loaves were the best we’ve tasted this side of the Atlantic ($1.75/each). John and Kate sang praises for the cheeses, both made from sheep’s milk and semi-hard. They liked the kesera’s distinctive rustic flavor, especially with appetizers, and enjoyed the kefalograviera, a grating cheese that is slightly stronger and saltier. Next time, we would include a softer, less assertive cheese that would better complement cold cuts.
   The asparagus was nicely marinated and al dente — ideal finger food. But we agreed that both the tabbouleh and the chick pea salad lacked zing. A shot of lemon juice would have helped, and the market’s friendly employees would happily supply you with a lemon or dress up any item to suit your taste.
   The hearty salad niçoise had all the right stuff: steamed marinated potatoes and generous chunks of grilled tuna, green beans and olives, but it, too, could have used a bit more zest. The poached salmon had a flaky texture, more like smoked fish, and was served too cold, straight from the display case. We were too hungry to wait while it rose to "room" temperature (a balmy 65 degrees that March day). Warming the fish would have brought out its natural juice and flavor, but even chilled, it got five thumbs out of the 10 available. (The thumbless dog would’ve raised all four of his.)
   From the market’s tempting bakery counter, we’d gone all-Greek, selecting butter cookies and sugar-dusted kourabiedes ($8.99/lb.), along with baklava ($1.40/serving). The cookies were a bit dry, so most came home with us. But the superb baklava, rich with nuts and dripping with cinnamon-flavored honey, was entirely devoured. (Fortunately, the market supplied plenty of napkins and utensils.)
   With advance notice, the market will put together a custom picnic, but Colonial Farms offers much more than picnics on its nine-page catering menu. A party hors d’oeuvre tray might include fresh fruits, imported cheeses, crudités, shrimp, sandwiches, Greek specialties and even Tex-Mex cheesecake. At a brunch for eight to 10, you could serve the market’s apple-cheese crepe soufflé filled with slightly sweetened cottage cheese, baked and topped with fresh or sautéed apples ($40). A dinner for six might start with garlic sausage wrapped in brioche dough ($25), crab and Brie strudel (10 slices for $35), or a vegetable soufflé ($35). Or you might serve Greek treats such as spanakopita ($35) or moussaka ($35).
   As for us, we are contemplating a summer reunion of our picnic team, in our own garden. We have our eyes on the market’s fettuccine with grilled chicken, spinach and tomato in a garlic cream sauce ($8.99/pound); veal saltimbocca ($8.99); or French rack of lamb with Dijon crumb crust. Boots looks forward to joining us.
For directions to Colonial Farms Gourmet Foods, click here.