General’s Quarters II

For old-fashioned prices and food, friendly service and an expansive view, drive — or fly — to the restaurant at the Trenton-Mercer Airport.

By: Faith Bahadurian

General’s Quarters II

Trenton-Mercer Airport

Interstate 95, Exit 2

Ewing

(609) 883-4747

www.generalsquarters.com
Food: Good

Service: Good, minor lapses

Prices: Italian, Continental, American br>
Cuisine: Pleasant room with a view

Ambiance: Inexpensive to moderate

Hours: Lunch: Daily 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Sun. brunch Oct.-June 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; Dinner: Sun.-Thurs. 4-9 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 4-10 p.m; Early Bird dinners Mon.-Sat. 3:30-5:30 p.m.; lounge open weekends until 2 a.m. with live music.

Essentials: Major credit cards accepted; full bar; non-smoking section; fully wheelchair accessible with ramps and an elevator; reservations accepted.

Directions

   There are few restaurants around that offer an expansive view, but General’s Quarters II offers that and more. Sit at one of many tables by the generous windows and watch the action below on the tarmac of Trenton-Mercer airport or gaze at the far-distant line of trees that rim the airport grounds. It rates highly in aviation’s version of the Zagat guide, The $100 Hamburger: A Guide to Pilots’ Favorite Fly-In Restaurants, by John F. Purner. The restaurant’s name came from local lore that the grounds, possibly the highest in Mercer County, once provided a vantage point for George Washington during the American Revolution. (The II was the result of a change in ownership.)
   Drive up to the terminal, park right outside, and once inside head upstairs to the restaurant. The large room is pleasantly decorated with abundant greenery and flowers intertwined with little lights on the rafters, a chandelier festooned with more greenery, and live plants along the windows. At one end, a large mirror-backed bar in a side room beckons, and sends out a steady stream of martinis and other mixed drinks.
   Besides the airport activity outside, there’s plenty inside to entertain both grownups and kids, including an unashamedly retro and mostly Italian menu, easy prices, and friendly waitstaff who seem to know most of the patrons. Co-owner Larry Magcos celebrates the 25th anniversary of his restaurant this coming fall, along with chef/co-owner Michael Myer.
   By the time we realized we’d been seated in a smoking section (nor had we been asked our preference when we made our reservation), we were too happy with our table by the window to switch, in spite of several smokers nearby. But there is a non-smoking section, also with windows, and a good ventilation system, I was assured.
   And we were so taken with the view, and our warm rolls and butter, that we didn’t notice there was a salad bar. Small loss, as we had plenty of good food at table, and the salad fixings looked pretty ordinary, except for the nice touch of a big assortment of specialty oils and vinegars for those who wish to bypass the creamy dressings offered.
   For my appetizer I ordered the excellent homemade snapper soup ($3.95), accompanied by the requisite cruet of sherry to add to taste. I couldn’t help thinking how much my mother would have approved of this nice thick soup, not too salty, and full of tender chunks of snapper. My friend ordered scallops wrapped with bacon and basted with bourbon barbecue sauce ($8.95) from the page of specials and was more than pleased with six large tender scallops in their tangy wrapping, served on a generous bed of yellow rice with fresh sliced scallion.
   Other appetizers on the regular menu ($5.25-$6.95) include standbys such as mozzarella sticks and shrimp cocktail, in addition to clams casino and stuffed mushrooms. The menu also offers five pastas, such as linguini pomodoro and fettuccini carbonara, in appetizer ($6.95) or entrée ($11.95) portions.
   General’s Quarters II is not the place for simple fish preparations, with most seafood being broiled, sauced or fried. So my friend ordered the broiled seafood platter with lobster tail ($24.95) and was mostly pleased with the result. A small platter held more of those delicious scallops, two or three shrimp, a clam casino and stuffed flounder (fish slightly dry, stuffing somewhat mushy), along with a medium-sized split lobster tail, with melted butter and two big wedges of lemon. The shellfish and bivalves were quite good, the lobster meat sticking to the shell due to the intense heat of the broiler but very flavorful.
   Acting on a tip from a friend about the steaks at General’s Quarters II, I ordered steak au poivre ($20.95) and was very pleased with the New York cut, tender, flavorful and cooked rare as ordered. The peppercorn sauce was intense, a sure bet to clear out the sinuses, but soothed by excellent homey mashed potatoes.
   Entrées come with several choices of starch, but not a lot in the way of other vegetables. They are also accompanied by a real throwback, a ring of bright red "spiced" apple that I couldn’t resist tasting and found oddly watery. I can’t remember the last time I saw this — and for good reason. These entrées pretty much topped the charts in terms of price, with most entrées falling between $12.95 and $16.95 for a large variety of chicken, veal and seafood dishes.
   With our meals we enjoyed glasses of Nathanson Creek Pinot Noir, one of seven varietal wines available by the glass (all $4.75). Wine by the bottle is a real steal, with most selections well under $20. It’s a respectable list of standard reds and whites, enlivened by several sparkling wines.
   Our service overall was good, although it seemed the staff was scarce when we needed water refills. And the staff does seem to suffer from assumptions — about whether new patrons are smokers, do they know there’s a salad bar, that kind of thing. A little more attention to such details added to the staff’s good-natured friendliness would be a boon.
   Desserts, plain cheesecake ($4.50) and carrot cake ($4) are not made in house, and were merely average, as was the coffee. But if the kids are with you, they’ll enjoy other options such as ice cream, pudding and even Jell-O. And I can think of many occasions where this would be the ideal spot for a meal: lunch with a business associate — and a view. Dinner with the family — and a view. Sunday brunch — and a view. You get the picture.
For directions to General’s Quarters II, click here.