Francine Segan’s newly released "The Philosopher’s Kitchen: Recipes from Ancient Greece and Rome for the Modern Cook" can help to create an imperial feast.
By: Pat Tanner
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| Francine Segan’s newly-released, "The Philosopher’s Kitchen: Recipes from Ancient Greece and Rome for the Modern Cook" can help to create an imperial feast.
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Francine Segan, the food-historian author of two of my favorite cookbooks, "Shakespeare’s Kitchen" and "Movie Menus," is at it again.
In her latest oeuvre, "The Philosopher’s Kitchen: Recipes from Ancient Greece and Rome for the Modern Cook" (Random House), she demonstrates her knack for re-interpreting the recipes of the past in a way that, while retaining their authenticity, makes a culture and time come alive. As always, it makes for a lively mélange of delicious, easy recipes, fascinating facts and revealing tidbits.
Ms. Segan deftly skirts some of the dubious dishes the ancients preferred (like stuffed dormice and songbird tongues) while demonstrating how seemingly modern food trends like low-carb and raw foods diets had their beginnings in antiquity. Original recipes are often given alongside Ms. Segan’s updated versions, and she credits her sources, who include such heavyweights as Aristotle, Homer, Hippocrates, Cicero, Marcus Aurelius and Apicius, whose "On Cookery" is the oldest extant cookbook.
Here are recipes from "The Philosopher’s Kitchen" that cover a meal, not from soup to nuts, but rather as the ancient Romans would have it: "ab ovo usque al malum," from eggs to fruit.
LEMONY CELERY
AND LEEK PUREE
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 leeks, white and tender green parts, diced
6 celery ribs with leaves, diced
1 quart vegetable or chicken stock
Salt and freshly milled pepper
1 large egg, lightly beaten*
Juice and grated zest of 2 lemons
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks and celery and sauté until the celery is tender, about 10 minutes.
1. Add the stock and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, cover and simmer for about 30 minutes.
2. Puree the soup in batches in a blender or food processor until smooth. Return the soup to the pot and warm over medium heat. Mix the egg and lemon juice together and slowly whisk into the soup. Serve garnished with the lemon zest. Can be served hot or cold.
Serves 6.
*Note: The egg in this recipe is not fully cooked. Omit if salmonella is a concern.
GINGERSNAP-CRUSTED PORK LOIN
WITH BRANDIED FIG SAUCE
1 pork tenderloin, about 1 pound
Salt and freshly milled pepper
2 tablespoons honey
½ cup crushed gingersnap cookies
½ cup sliced dried figs
1¼ cups brandy
¾ cup chicken stock, plus more as needed
¼ teaspoon dry mustard
1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Liberally season the pork loin with salt and pepper. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the honey over the entire loin and press on the gingersnap crumbs. Place the pork loin on a rack in a roasting pan and cook for 18 to 22 minutes per pound or until a meat thermometer reads 160 degrees to 170 degrees.
2. Meanwhile, bring the figs and brandy to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the stock, the mustard and the remaining 1 tablespoon of honey. Simmer for 10 minutes until the figs are soft. Once the mixture cools, puree it in a food processor. If it is too thick, add a bit more stock. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and set aside.
3. Remove the pork loin from the oven and allow it to rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Serve the slices topped with a dollop of brandied fig sauce.
Serves 4.
BABY GREENS
WITH CAPER VINAIGRETTE
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons wine vinegar
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons capers, plus more for garnish
Salt and freshly milled pepper
3 cups assorted baby greens, such as arugula and spinach
Puree the lemon juice, vinegar, oil and capers in a food processor until well blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss the baby greens with the vinaigrette, place on a serving platter, and garnish with capers.
Serves 4.
PEACHES IN SPICED WINE
3 firm peaches, peeled, pitted, and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons honey
1 cup dessert wine
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Divide the peach slices among 4 large wineglasses and top with the honey. Pour ¼ cup of the wine into each glass and sprinkle with the cumin. Serve immediately.
Serves 4.
Pat Tanner can be heard each Saturday morning on "Dining Today with Pat Tanner" on MoneyTalk AM 1350 and over www.moneytalk1350.com from 9 to 10 a.m.