New bakery owners finds homey atmosphere in town.
By: Lea Kahn
Karen Child has traded in her artist’s paintbrush for a pastry brush.
The former art major, who worked as a real estate executive and then as a pastry chef, acquired the Village Bakery a landmark in the village of Lawrenceville from former owner John McGlynn in June. Under her leadership, it is transforming into a gourmet boutique bakery, specializing in breads and cakes without preservatives.
"This is what I have been looking for all my life. It’s nice to be in a homey atmosphere in Lawrenceville," said Ms. Child, who spent her childhood in Europe, where her father worked for the U.S. Information Agency.
The road to pastry chef and owner of the Gordon Avenue bakery was not a direct one, however. Ms. Child, who lives in Princeton Junction, studied painting at Arcadia College formerly known as Beaver College in Glenside, Pa.
When she could not find a job as an artist, Ms. Child landed a job as a leasing agent for a real estate developer. She made the transition from leasing agent for residential properties to leasing agent for commercial properties, and then into residential sales.
After 17 years, however, Ms. Child decided it was time for a change. As she was thumbing through a magazine one day, an advertisement for a culinary school caught her eye. She had always loved to make wedding cakes for people, and she would make Christmas cookies "galore" for her colleagues.
It occurred to Ms. Child that since this is what she really enjoyed, it made sense to try to become proficient at it. So, she enrolled in a six-month-long course at the International School for Culinary Education in New York City culminating in a degree in baking and pastry.
The newly minted baker and pastry chef found work at the Peacock Inn and at the Witherspoon Bread Co., both in Princeton. She also worked at the Frog and Peach restaurant in New Brunswick, and taught baking at Mercer County Community College.
But Ms. Child decided it was time to strike out on her own. She learned that the Village Bakery business was for sale, and decided to buy it from Mr. McGlynn.
"It makes you feel good and it makes other people feel good (when you bake). You feel happy," said Ms. Child, who admitted to having a sweet tooth.
"Pastry is creative, but you do need to follow the recipe," she said. "It is a more well-defined craft (than cooking) what you have to put in the recipe to be successful. On the other hand, it’s fun to take these ‘givens’ and substitute or add to the recipe and make them your own. That’s what I try to do."
In her baking, Ms. Child said, she tries to appeal to the American palate. Americans like their pastries sweeter than do the Europeans, she said. In Europe, cakes are dry similar to spongecake and the bakers lace them with liquor. The cake serves to absorb the flavor of the liquor, she said.
"I try to cater to anybody who comes in," she said. "I like to work with the customers for things to round out their parties. I encourage people to call ahead, because everything is handmade every night."
Although new owners often make changes, Ms. Child said the changes that she had made have been minor. Doughnuts are no longer offered, but cakes a staple at the bakery remain. Cupcakes and cookies are still offered, but there is a mix of new items in the bakery cases. Those new items include pecan tarts and fresh fruit tarts, for example.
The goal is to become a gourmet boutique bakery, where everything is made fresh daily, Ms. Child said. While some bakeries fill their shelves with items that are either frozen or that came from another source, everything in the Village Bakery is made by hand on the premises, she said.
"I want to keep the cake business and make breakfast and bread items as important," she said. Artisan bread, which is handmade and baked in a special oven, will be offered. Artisan bread is not made with preservatives, she added. Artisan bread differs from commercial bread in that it is made with fresh ingredients on a daily basis.
Patrons of some restaurants in the village may sample some of Ms. Child’s offerings. She makes bread for the Lawrenceville Inn, Chambers Walk and Vidalia, as well as custom hot dog rolls for Peggy Sue’s Ice Cream shop. Those products are not available in the Village Bakery, she said.
The Village Bakery at 2 Gordon Ave. is open Tuesday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. It is open Saturday from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m., and Sunday from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. It is closed on Monday.