Duck Sauce

Whether you select strictly Chinese food or dishes with a Eurasian twist, this Newtown spot offers wonderful food at down-to-earth prices.

By: Dawn Nikithser

   I admit it — when it comes to Chinese food, I am a little spoiled and a lot particular. I was fortunate to have grown up in an area where there was a wealth of great Hunan and Szechuan eateries, plus proximity to New York City’s Chinatown for more esoteric delicacies. So it takes quite a lot to convince me to add a new — at least new to me — restaurant to my list of favorites. Happily, Newtown’s Duck Sauce will definitely be added and I will return to enjoy its offerings again and again.
   The restaurant actually serves what it calls Eurasian cuisine, a blend of East and West that manages to preserve the best of both worlds without sacrificing too much from any one culture. Yes, the standard Chinese items are available, so if you’re just dying for a plate of chicken chow mein ($5.95 or $8.95) with white rice and crispy noodles, you can certainly get it here. But maybe you’ll forego the standard egg rolls in favor of wonderful moo shu rolls ($5.75) with hoisin sauce. You won’t regret the switch.
   My husband and I were pleased to see a good crowd at the restaurant, despite it being past 8 p.m. on a week night. That’s always a good sign, we thought. We were seated promptly and brought crispy noodles with both duck sauce and hot mustard, and glasses of water. Our drink orders — soft drinks only, though BYO is welcome — were taken and brought within minutes of seating. Then we took some time to peruse the menu, which included standard Chinese items, the Eurasian choices (a whole lot of them — 25 different items, several of which offered three or even four different methods of cooking), and the night’s specials, usually six to eight additional offerings per night.
   It wasn’t an easy choice. The simple menu descriptions managed to make everything sound wonderful and the smells coming from both the kitchen and the plates of other diners made decisions that much harder. I had been told that the salads were not to be missed and the idea of salads being recommended at an Asian eatery of any kind intrigued me, so I opted for the tomato salad ($5.95) to start. My husband went with the wonton soup ($1.95) and fried calamari ($7.25) for his appetizer, and then it was on to the entrées. After much debate, my husband went with one of the specials, the melon shrimp ($11.95), while I opted for a regular menu item, the pan-seared seafood fish filet (tuna that night, for $16.95) in spicy ginger-garlic sauce.
   While early November is perhaps not the best time to try a tomato salad, Duck Sauce did a great job with this one. The tomatoes included cherry, Roma and golden; all were juicy and lovely to look at, though the Romas were a bit mealy in the mouth. They were served with perfectly grilled slices of eggplant and generous dollops of goat cheese, all drizzled with a balsamic sesame dressing that I wanted to eat with a spoon. While I might suggest you wait until a more opportune tomato time to try this particular salad, see if you can get them to put this dressing on one of the other options, because it would make even plain old iceberg lettuce taste yummy.
   The wonton soup was served "Shanghai" style, which apparently explained the addition of spinach leaves. Whatever the style, the soup was lovely. The wontons were small and delicate but full of flavor, and the spinach added a fresh green note to the rich and gingery broth. The calamari was a real treat and not what was expected. The menu describes the item in an almost Southwestern way — cilantro cocktail sauce, chipotle aioli and lemon-soaked capers. The breading on the squid was slightly spicy, with something of a cayenne touch, more breadcrumbs than batter, and very crisp without being overpowering. The squid itself was tender and tasty; I preferred the creamy aioli for dipping, while my husband was partial to the cocktail sauce. The serving was generous and easily shared.
   Entrées were more than a match for the wonderful appetizers. Presentation on both was exceptional, easily on par with the best four- and five-star restaurants in the surrounding area. And the food itself was spectacular. The special shrimp was breaded in a light tempura batter, served atop a mound of cantaloupe balls with some white rice on the side. The entire dish was dressed with a melon-infused creamy sauce, just enough to moisten the crisp batter on the shrimp without creating a soggy mess. The flavors melded nicely and created a little taste of spring on the otherwise very autumn list of specials.
   Duck Sauce offers pan-seared seafood in a variety of ways, with a range of seafoods. Options include shrimp, scallops, fish filet (changes nightly) or lobster in sauces such as spicy garlic-ginger, red curry or tequila lime. My tuna steaks in the spicy ginger-garlic sauce were fabulous. The sashimi-quality fish was served rare as requested, seared crisp on the exterior and meltingly ruby raw on the interior. The sauce was lovely, not too spicy (heat fans can ask for a little more spice), and paired well with the thin slices of grilled veggies that were served with the fish. Oddly, the menu claimed the dish would be served with eggplant, watercress and baked potato, but I was pleased with the grilled veggies and so didn’t bother to question the waiter. If that was their one mistake of the night, it was a good one, which they can feel free to repeat anytime I am dining.
   Desserts are simple — ice cream and ginger crème brulee were offered that might. Since my husband and I are both fans of green tea ice cream, we went with a serving to share ($2.95). Sharing was a wise choice, as it was easily three scoops of the lovely green creaminess, my favorite light and refreshing way to end an Asian meal. Served with jasmine tea (complimentary), it was fragrant and satisfying.
   Give this Newtown favorite a chance, whether you want plain old Chinese or one of the more innovative offerings. Lunch offers most of the menu at lower prices and slightly smaller servings, but go for dinner and you’ll likely end up with leftovers for lunch anyway. Bring a bottle of wine or just enjoy the soft drinks (which waiters happily refill at no additional charge), don’t miss the calamari and be sure to have some ice cream. It’ll be a wonderful meal at a great price that you’ll be proud to recommend.