Here’s the Beef

On a mission for hamburger heaven in Bucks County, Pa., our reviewer encountered juicy, smoke-charred perfection on a bun.

Related Story: On the Side
By: Amy Brummer

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TIMEOFF PHOTOS/AMY BRUMMER
TimeOFF food reviewer Amy Brummer goes searching for the best hamburgers in Bucks County. Charcoal Steaks in Yardley, just one stop on her tour of area restaurants, features flame-grilled burgers.


   After returning home from an unsuccessful bid to have a traffic ticket expunged, I was in need of a little comfort. In times like these, a hamburger and French fries comprises a "happy meal."
   We stopped at Charcoal Steaks in Yardley, Pa., lured by the aroma from the smoky grill, imparting the smell of a summer cookout to a gray late-winter afternoon. Settling into a booth with a view of the river, we chose from the list of specialty burgers, bypassing the standard cheeseburger for two of the specialty options, "Main Street" ($5.35) and "The Rock" ($6.25), along with a couple of sodas.
   The service was friendly with the warm familiarity of a place frequented by regulars. Our burgers arrived shortly, looking and smelling mouthwatering. "The Rock" was piled high with shaved ham, Swiss and provolone cheeses, coleslaw and Russian dressing. Served on a Kaiser roll with lettuce, tomato and onion, it was accompanied by a generous side of crispy golden fries. "Main Street" was an excellent twist on the all-American burger. Topped with cheddar cheese, sautéed onions and bacon, it was served on grilled rye bread, which further enhanced the flavor and texture. A side of onion rings substituted for the fries ($1 extra) were a nice complement.

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Eric Plescha, a student in the Bucks County Community College Culinary Program, mans the grill at Charcoal Steaks, owned by his father, Tony Plescha.


   The burgers, made with house-ground sirloin, are juicy without being greasy, and the smoky char of the well-seasoned meat shone though the copious toppings. Both were cooked exactly as ordered, rare for "The Rock" and medium rare for "Main Street." In all, they were everything a hamburger should be. The question was, how do other burgers in Bucks stand up to this standard?
   On a drizzly Sunday afternoon, we took a drive to New Hope, Pa., to test the waters. The plan: sit at the bar, catch a little of the Eagles game, have a burger and a beer.
   Marsha Brown seemed like a good spot to start. Ms. Brown is also the owner of two Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse franchises, and we wanted to see how a high-end hamburger would rate. The beer list was not particularly special, mostly commercial American brews, so my companion opted for a cabernet ($11.50) which was pleasant, but not reflective of its price. A request for sparkling mineral water resulted in a full bottle of Pellegrino ($4.50).
   We split an 8 oz. Angus burger ($14.50), which arrived alone on its plate, with the French fries served separately on the side. Though the burger was shaped poorly (more like a ball than a patty, so it sat awkwardly in the middle of the bun) it was cooked to medium-rare perfection, with excellent seasonings. However, we were dismayed by the French fries, which were limp, cold, waxy and insufficiently cooked. When asked how the food was, we commented on the fries, and the waiter offered to bring us a new order. The second order was darker in color, and a few of the fries were OK, but the majority were as lame as the previous batch.

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The fixings selection at the Yardley establishment.


   Hoping for better luck, we moved on to Triumph, where we ordered a house-brewed "coffee and cream" stout on tap. Dark and roasty with a rich, creamy head, it was a pleasure to drink while we waited for our burger. Triumph has it set up in a build-a-burger style, offering a standard burger ($8.95) with a selection of toppings for an additional 75 cents each. Ordered medium rare, it arrived well done, but even with the overcooking it retained some juiciness, and the cheddar, bacon and grilled onions helped compensate as well. The fries were perfect, thick and hand cut, and the bar full of enthusiastic Eagles fans rounded out the experience.
   Maybe we had been barking up the wrong tree at Marsha Brown. After all, it was just a hamburger, something better kept simple than upscale. But a trip to Maggie’s Place in Doylestown, Pa., reversed that thinking. The chef, Michael Kanter, has put several tasting dishes on his menu, including a sampler of hamburgers ($10). Arriving on five buttery little buns the size of a White Castle slider, each was creatively conceived and deliciously prepared, arranged around a pile of crispy, skin-on fries.
   The short rib burger, topped with spicy ketchup, was held together by a caramelized exterior that gave way to a soft, velvety interior. The mushroom burger, which we thought would be a topping, was a surprise as it was a vegetarian delight, comprised of chopped mushrooms and topped with grilled onions. A foie gras burger, accompanied by red onion jam and blue cheese, was sweet and rich, and the Kobe beef burger with Tonkatsu sauce took flavor to a new level. Lastly, the old-fashioned cheeseburger was the definition of a classic in two neat bites.
   On another night, Isaac Newton’s in Newtown, Pa., known for its family-friendly menu and "American fun food," seemed like a place that would have its burger perfected. From an outstanding beer list — dozens of American and European micro-brews in bottles and on tap — we chose a Rogue chocolate stout and Woodpecker dark and dry hard cider.
   From the list of burgers, we chose the house specialty, a "Blaine Burger" ($9.75), topped with crispy onions, bacon and blue cheese, and one topped with mushroom and grilled onions ($8.75). Each was served on a soft roll with a side of terrifically crisp shoestring fries and barbecued baked beans. Both were cooked closer to medium than medium rare, but maintained their juiciness. The meat was not as flavorful as others we had tried, but overall, they were quite tasty, and we found the relaxed atmosphere agreeable on a mid-week visit when we were just out for a quick bite.
   Atmosphere can never totally make up for mediocre food, but the right ambience can make an average meal better. On the night before Christmas Eve, we headed out to Revolutions Tavern, which just opened in River Road, north of Washington Crossing, Pa. The bar was packed, and the dining room was filling up as we settled into one of the spacious booths. A "Revolution" burger with bacon and cheese ($7.50) and a peppercorn burger ($8) were both cooked to temperature, but again did not achieve the flavor of the burgers at Charcoal Steaks or Marsha Brown. But the service was friendly and the room was cozy and full on a stormy pre-holiday evening, lending a homey comfort to the meal.
   In all, we still found that none lived up to the perfection of Charcoal Steaks. The char-grilled flavor, the well-seasoned meat, perfectly cooked fries, friendly service and a cozy booth with a view hit all the high notes. We returned to see if our perfect hamburger meal was a fluke. It wasn’t. Even in the late afternoon, long after the lunch crowd has eaten, and before the dinner crowd shows up, the kitchen is consistent. A couple of bites seals it: this burger can’t be beat.
Charcoal Steaks, 11 Delaware Ave., Yardley, Pa., (215) 493-639415 S. Main St., New Hope, Pa., (215) 862-7044400 Union Square, New Hope, Pa., (215) 862-8300812 N. Easton Road, Doylestown, Pa., (215) 489-353518 S. State St., Newtown, Pa., (215) 860-51001600 River Road, Solebury, Pa., (215) 862-2972.