Il Pomodoro

Diners seeking a fresh dimension in Italian-inspired cuisine will find it at this Somerville establishment.

By: Kate and Tom O’Neill

Il Pomodoro

1 W. High St.

Somerville

(908) 526-4466



Food: Mostly good; some items very good

Service: Thoughtful, well-informed, friendly

Prices: Moderately expensive

Cuisine: Italian and more

Ambience: Informal, tried-and-true Italian décor

Hours: Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Sat. 5-10 p.m.

Essentials: Major credit cards accepted; not wheelchair accessible; adjacent private parking.

Directions

   Stately Victorian houses surround Court House Square in Somerville, and one of these is home to Il Pomodoro. Passing under the brightly lit awning on West High Street, the diner descends into the welcoming aromas of Italian cuisine — oregano, basil and the tomatoes that give Il Pomodoro its name.
   Aboveground, the old manse is unoccupied, giving it a desolate look after dark, but John Proske, who acquired the restaurant in September, is renovating the first and second stories. He plans to move Il Pomodoro upstairs this summer into a space restored to the elegance of an earlier era.
   The open design of the below-ground restaurant addresses the challenge of a low-ceilinged space with high-set windows with a sidewalk-level view. Half-walls separate the bar and surrounding tavern from the smaller, non-smoking dining area. A mural depicts a Mediterranean scene, perking up the vistas, while a full wall mirror expands the room’s horizons. Outsized stained-glass shades cover the candles, casting circles of multicolored candlelight over each table.
   In the past, diners familiar with Il Pomodoro have been tempted to bring along pencil and paper as a memory aid during the nightly recitation of 20 or more specials. Asked about the legendary list, our pleasant and professional server, Bong, said he had had to memorize only 10 specials that evening, though at other times, the list had been longer. Relying on this practice seems especially odd because Il Pomodoro’s laser-printed, one-sheet menu is already titled "Dinner Specials." Bong’s explanations were patient and thorough, but we continue to be baffled by the trend toward unwritten specials: they are a disservice to servers, diners and presumably even to the chefs who prepare them.
   Chef Armando Sorto offers a menu that stretches well beyond traditional Italian favorites. Fried oysters with Dijon sauce ($10.95) stood out among the appetizer specials—and deservedly. The mild mustard sauce enhanced both the tidewater flavor of polenta-encrusted oysters and the sweet lump crab-packed rice cake that accompanied the dish. Fruity undertones in the house Pinot Grigio ($6/glass) added to our enjoyment of this well-balanced trio.
   Arugula salad ($7.95) was one of three offered that evening. Tossed with goat cheese and layered with fresh and poached pears, the salad was dressed with a smooth port vinaigrette, making it a palate-tingling delight. Mozzarella roulade ($8.95), two thick fists of subtly salty cheese, would have benefited from additional roasted red pepper and spinach filling. Two sauces — arugula-infused olive oil and pesto — accentuated the dish’s natural flavors. Involtini di melanzini ($7.95) were, surprisingly, stuffed with filet mignon, creating a hearty variation on this classic. Topped with slices of smoked mozzarella, tangy chunks of sun-dried tomatoes and a rosy pink whiskey sauce, the dense eggplant slices balanced perfectly with the juicy steak at their core.
   The highlight of our secondi, or entrées, was Norwegian salmon ($21.95), a filet kept moist and tender by a crust of shaved Yukon gold potatoes. A Moët et Chandon champagne sauce brought out the best of both the salmon and its accompanying medley of steamed vegetables. It also embellished the side serving of velvet-smooth mashed potatoes.
   Other secondi were less successful, but in each case a thoughtful garnish, sauce or side dish gave promise of the dish’s full potential. Overcooking produced a special Pork Chop Calabrese ($17.95) that was tough and tasteless, but it was topped by a spicy vinaigrette and sat on a bed of spiced rabe that retained its bitter essence. Crisp-rimmed, chewy sweet-potato fritters contributed balance by adding a third texture and flavor to the dish. Graced with an admirable white Zinfandel sauce and accompanied by individual seedless grapes, Anadra ($22.95) includes both the breast and leg of oven-roasted Long Island duck. As with the pork, excessive cooking had dried out the dark meat, but the breast was juicy and flavorful.
   Most memorable for its hearty tomato-basil sauce, osso bucco ($24.95) was rich and savory but seemed to have lingered too long over the fire. The accompanying risotto (linguine is also available) was well prepared, with the individual al dente grains incorporated into the creamy texture of the dish. The house Chianti ($7/glass) complemented the osso bucco’s blend of classic Italian flavors.
   All evening, we’d been tempted by the array of confections on the passing dessert tray. When the display finally arrived at our table, we ordered two mousse cakes, raspberry and chocolate ($5.95 each). Their individual personalities shone through twin garnishes of raspberry and peach syrups. Extra mousse levitated the chocolate interpretation, while the rich filling in the raspberry version brought it closer to old-fashioned cake. Superior coffee had been used in preparing our espresso ($3) and cappuccino ($4.50), but the cappuccino lacked the expected topping of frothy foam, making it more like a latte.
   Il Pomodoro’s cuisine is innovative, its service professional, its ambience unpretentious and welcoming. On the night of our visit, the execution of some dishes did not match the ambitions of the menu, but the restaurant’s successful variations on familiar dishes make it a worthwhile destination for the diner who seeks a fresh dimension in Italian-inspired cuisine.