Havana

This staple of New Hope’s restaurant scene offers sophisticated, approachable entrées and friendly, upbeat service.

By: Amy Brummer

Havana

105 S. Main St.

New Hope, Pa.

(215) 862-9897

www.havananewhope.com



Food: Good to very good

Service: Friendly and efficient

Prices: Moderate to moderately expensive

Cuisine: World fusion

Ambience: Casual

Hours: Daily noon-2 a.m.

Essentials: Major credit cards accepted; wheelchair accessible; full bar; smoking allowed at the bar; vegetarian friendly.

Directions

   The first time I ate at Havana, more than a decade ago, it was late spring. While I don’t remember what we ate, I do remember sitting on the porch, soaking in the inimitable carnival of New Hope on a temperate evening.
   Over the years, I have been back probably half a dozen times — meeting friends for a drink, grabbing a quick snack, enjoying a juicy sirloin burger in one of the cozy dining areas shortly after the space was renovated in 2002. In some ways, it is the kind of place you almost take for granted, as it has been a staple of the town’s restaurant scene for 27 years. That said, it is also a place that always seems to have a steady stream of customers, and it is not just because it has been around "forever."
   The owners, Mark Stevens and Jim and Jane Faraco, have never rested on their laurels, and their current chef, Robert Hobbs, has created a menu with something for everyone by breathing life into standard bar fare, offering hearty salads and creating sophisticated-yet-approachable entrées following a world fusion theme.
   On a gray Saturday afternoon, the air had just a bit of a nip to it and was pleasant for walking around, but by no means warm enough to sit outside. But at Havana, we were pleased to find that we could do just that. The covered porch was decked with outdoor heaters (which are put out on the weekends) and several diners were enjoying their meals outside. We poked our heads in to see if we would prefer eating in the dining room, but quickly decided we would enjoy this golden opportunity for some fresh air during February.
   Our server greeted us and took our drink orders promptly — a club soda ($2) for me, and from a lengthy list of beers on tap, a Hacker-Pschorr heifer weisse ($5) for my companion. A quick perusal of the menu revealed a nice mix of starters that included an intriguing smoked salmon tartare with black sesame seeds and curry oil ($14), Hawaiian-style sushi tuna with sesame oil, soy and scallions ($12) as well as iron-pan-aged provolone ($11) and sesame onion rings ($10), which arrived at the neighboring table looking gloriously thick and golden.
   We chose an order of nachos, opting for the spicy shrimp ($17) over the chicken ($15) or vegetarian ($10), and Jamaican jerk chicken wings ($12). Most of the options on the lunch menu, save the sandwiches — hot turkey ($12), beef brisket ($14), Havana club ($12) — appear on the dinner menu as well, usually at the same price. The lunch menu also includes a list of panini sandwiches in combinations such as eggplant, brie and roasted peppers ($12), smoked salmon, red onion and cream cheese ($12) and quesadillas made with jack cheese with either black beans, chicken or beef ($12). On Friday, Saturday and Monday nights, the restaurant offers a late-night "make your own panini" option from 11 p.m. to 1 a.m.
   The chicken wings were outstanding, arriving at the table piping hot in a clingy sauce of sweet pineapple and hot peppers that lingered on the tongue to reveal toasty flavors of allspice and ginger.
   The nachos were not as engaging, in part because the overflowing platter was not fully heated through so the cheese wasn’t totally melted, and it all cooled off too quickly. After a couple of bites, we asked to have the order wrapped to go, and when reheated at home, we found them tastier, though the baby shrimp that were generously scattered on top became a bit rubbery.
   For the main course, my companion ordered the molasses black pepper Pacific salmon ($12 lunch, $19 dinner) and I went with the lump crabcake salad ($20 lunch, $22 dinner). The salmon was firm without being dry, crusted in black pepper over a bed of rich, smooth mashed potatoes. These elements proved a perfect mop for the deep brown molasses sauce, which had just enough sweetness to offset the peppery fish and mingle lusciously with the silky potatoes. Garlicky sautéed spinach heightened the combination further.
   The salad was also a winner — the crabcakes had a clean fresh flavor and the binder was light and contributed to the taste. The cakes were crowned with frizzled onions and served atop a heaping pile of greens with a mustard shallot vinaigrette. Accompanying the dish was a creamy, cooling remoulade sauce that added to the balance of sharp greens with the rich crab.
   For dessert, I ordered the tiramisu ($6) and a cup of tea ($2), while my companion chose the piña colada cake ($6) and keoki coffee ($7) with dark Creme de Cacao, brandy and Kahlua from the bar menu, which also includes more than a dozen martinis and assorted "elixirs" — margaritas, daiquiris and the like. The coffee, which was topped with a swirl of real, mildly sweet whipped cream, was stronger in alcohol than coffee, and it paired delectably with the tiramisu.
   Light and creamy with a good dose of rum, the tiramisu was engaging at every bite. We were less impressed with the pina colada cake ($8), which was dense and heavy, and tasted of the refrigerator. But noticing that we had not eaten more than a couple of bites, our waiter asked about it, we were honest with him, and he took it off the bill.
   Like all the staff we encountered at Havana, he was friendly and solicitous with an easy smile and an upbeat personality. As we ate our meal on the porch on this gray February day we found ourselves simply enjoying the familiarity of a place that we have returned to over time, and while some things have changed, it still stays true to its roots. There were several items on the dinner menu that sparked our interest like the Indian paprika chicken ($16), grilled polenta with sweet Italian sausage ($14), and the brown butter tortellini with butternut squash, pecans and sage ($14), and we look forward to returning again to try one of those dishes.
   As we left the restaurant, the bartender gave us a big smile and equally enthusiastic "goodbye and see you again." And he was right — we will definitely be back.