Hotel du Village

This provincial European inn has a following of regulars, who return for classic French dining and a comfortable, charming atmosphere.

By: Amy Brummer

Hotel du Village

Route 32

New Hope, Pa.

(215) 862-9911

www.hotelduvillage.com



Food: Good

Service: Friendly but inconsistent

Prices: Moderately expensive

Cuisine: Classic French

Vegetarian Options: Several mushroom appetizers, onion soup; call ahead to inquire about vegetarian entrée.

Ambience: Old World European

Hours: Dinner: Wed.-Sat. from 5:30 p.m.; Sun. from 3 p.m.

Essentials: Accepts major credit cards; full bar; smoking permitted; wheelchair accessible; reservations recommended.

Directions

   For all the times I have driven on River Road north of New Hope, Pa., and admired the handsome European architecture of Hotel du Village, I never really considered eating there. Sometimes this is the problem with places that have been around for decades — they are often overlooked in favor of newer, trendier places that catch diners’ attention with the promise of fusing East and West, North and South, or recreating traditional ethnic fare in a style befitting contemporary American tastes.
   But on a drive up to Phillips’ Mill, my boyfriend pointed out how lovely the rustic stone wall of the property looked in the fading afternoon light.
   We made a reservation for Friday night, and arrived around 7:30. The building that houses the restaurant once served as the Holmquist School, a preparatory school for young ladies, which merged with the nearby Solebury School in 1949. The current owners, Omar and Barbara Arbani, purchased the property in 1976 when the school sold the girls’ campus, and have been offering dining and lodging with provincial European charm ever since.

"image"

TIMEOFF/MATT SMITH

   Upon arriving, we took a moment to admire the handsome woodwork and detail of the interior, but had a hard time finding anyone to get us situated. To our right, the innkeeper was checking a couple in at the front desk, but made no notice of us waiting in the narrow hall outside of the dining room. After poking around a little to make our presence known, we were ultimately seated at a table near the fireplace, which warmed us with the golden orange glow of slow burning embers. The interior of the room is paneled and accented in dark wood, lending a slightly Bavarian feel to the dimly candlelit room.

"image"

   Settling in for our celebratory meal, we took a look at the menu and chose a glass of the house Pinot Noir and a glass of the house Cabernet (both $7) to complement our meals. Then we waited. The wine came out eventually, and we noticed that while other tables had been given bread, we had not, and I prefer not to drink on an empty stomach. This wouldn’t have been too much of a problem if we could have caught a server’s attention, but ours had disappeared, and no one else was looking in our direction.
   He eventually resurfaced, brought us bread and assured us that our appetizers would be coming out shortly. For a first course, we tried the pate maison ($6.95), a flavorful, country-style preparation nicely accented with crunchy, sour cornichons, and the crab cake, a special that night. A bit salty, the crab cake was still worth its price tag of $9.95, as it was meaty, with a crispy exterior and a velvety interior. We couldn’t resist ordering the special salad ($7.95) that night, a mix of mesclun, green apple, walnuts and goat cheese, one of our favorite combinations. Tossed in a bright vinaigrette, it was a fine balance of sweet, tart, sharp and creamy.
   We suspected that we could have started with the champignon frits (fried mushrooms, $6.95) or the clams casino ($6.95) and been equally happy, though I was somewhat dubious of the Avocat Marie Louise salad ($7.50), a half avocado stuffed with shrimp salad and the hearts of palm with watercress and sliced tomato ($6.50), if only because anything less than a perfectly ripe avocado or tomato would do the salads a disservice.
   For our main course, we chose the New York sirloin with peppercorns, cream and brandy ($22.95) and the duckling with cherries ($21.95). The list also included intriguing choices such as crust covered rabbit ($19.95), sweetbreads with green olives, mushrooms and Madeira ($20.95), frog legs with shallots, garlic and parsley butter, in addition to boneless pork chops in rosemary sauce ($18.95), lamb chops with green herbs ($21.95), filet of sole in a curry sauce ($18.95) and coquilles St. Jacques ($21.95).
   The cabernet paired nicely with the medium-rare steak, its high, woody notes providing a counterpoint to the mellow cream sauce studded with piquant peppercorns. Perfectly cooked to medium rare, the beef was well-trimmed and flavorful with a bit of char to give it depth. We were both pleased with the duckling as well, its crisp skin giving way to tender flesh, which was enhanced by the rich fruitiness of the cherry sauce. The Pinot Noir that we chose to accompany it, however, was too fruity, leaning more toward fortified grape juice than a deep, juicy wine.
   Both entrées were accompanied by tiny roasted potato triangles, crisp steamed string beans and a fussy broiled tomato. It was all so classic and mid-20th-century French that it gelled together with its own special charm. We could tell by looking around the room that, save for one other table, everyone appeared to be not just regulars, but part of an extended family. At one point, the owner brought out a baby (a grandchild, perhaps) for a table of eight to ooh and ahh over.
   The couple next to us received a complimentary loaf of bread to take home for breakfast and, as they noticed our curiosity over this bonus, struck up a conversation. They had been coming to Hotel du Village for nearly 20 years, at first for special occasions, then about once a month since they moved to the neighborhood a little over a decade ago. Their son was about to have an engagement party there in a week. They liked the comfort of the place, and while they eschewed the homogeneity of chain restaurants, they liked that the menu was consistent in its offerings, enjoying the specials when they were looking for something different, or taking refuge in their particular favorites at other times.
   By the end of the meal, the service had become less spotty and the waiter proved to be very sincere and friendly. Finishing up with a firm, eggy crème caramel ($6.50), a densely rich and deeply chocolate mousse ($5.50), a cup of cinnamon tea and a perky espresso, we had fallen into the rhythm of the place. If anything, it made us a little envious of the other diners, who were content to return time and again to enjoy the atmosphere and the meal instead of being lured away by every new place that opens its doors.