Martin Yan cooks at Margaret Kuo’s

…we were regaled with commentary and cooking demonstrations throughout our meal by Martin Yan, one of Public Broadcasting’s longest-running cooking-show hosts

By: Faith Bahadurian

Photo by Faith Bahadurian

Chef Martin Yan, well known for his televised cooking show, joined restaurateur Margaret Kuo at her "destination restaurant" in Wayne, Pa., as part of Philadelphia’s "The Book & The Cook" festival.

   Philadelphia celebrates all things culinary each March with "The Book & The Cook," a 10-day festival that includes restaurant events, cooking demonstrations, food tours and more, culminating in a gigantic culinary exposition.
   For the restaurant events, top local restaurant chefs collaborate with guest chefs — who are also cookbook authors — on the menu and meal preparation. The guest chef mingles with diners and signs cookbooks after the meal.
   At one such dinner this year, we were regaled with commentary and cooking demonstrations throughout our meal by Martin Yan, one of Public Broadcasting’s longest-running cooking-show hosts, who became famous in the 1980s for his "Yan Can Cook" series. Twenty-six books and 2,400 shows later, Mr. Yan is still going strong.
   Throughout our meal of tempura shrimp and tofu rolls, Peking duck, rack of lamb, and other delicacies, Mr. Yan energetically entertained us with humorous chatter and his legendary knife skills. After dinner, attendees eagerly bought copies of his latest book, "Martin Yan’s Quick & Easy," and more "Yan Can Cook" cleavers than you could shake a stick (or a knife?) at.
   But perhaps the real star of the evening was the gorgeous Main Line restaurant Mr. Yan was paired with — Margaret Kuo’s, in Wayne, Pa. One of several restaurants owned by Ms. Kuo, this one is a real showpiece, a true "destination restaurant."
   Outside, two huge reproductions of Tang Dynasty dragon bas-reliefs decorate the pink-toned façade of the imposing building.
   Inside, more bas-reliefs and exquisite antiques from the Golden Age of China decorate the first-floor dining areas, which include public and private dining rooms. (Chefs from many regions of China prepare mainstream and more unusual dishes to rave reviews on this level.)
   Upstairs, in the elegant and serene Akari room, and in adjacent screened tatami rooms, Japanese cuisine is featured, while on a lower level there is a large banquet room.
   This restaurant has it all — top-notch décor and cuisine, and an impressive collection of wines and other spirits.
   The recipes below, perfect for a hectic work night, are from "Martin Yan’s Quick & Easy" (Chronicle Books, 2004).
POMELO, RADISH AND SPINACH SALAD
4 servings
Dressing:
   ¼ cup vegetable oil
   ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
   2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
   1 tablespoon sesame oil
   1 tablespoon honey
   ¾ teaspoon chili garlic sauce
   ¼ cup pine nuts
   1 pomelo, peeled and segmented (can substitute red grapefruit)
   2½ cups packed baby spinach
   3 red radishes, trimmed and thinly sliced
   One 8-ounce can sliced water chestnuts, drained
   ½ cup thinly sliced red onion
   2 tablespoons thinly sliced crystallized ginger
   
For the dressing, combine the dressing ingredients in a small bowl and whisk to blend. In a small frying pan, toast the pine nuts over medium heat, shaking the pan frequently, until lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour onto a plate and let cool.
   In a large bowl, combine the pomelo segments, spinach, radishes, water chestnuts, onion, crystallized ginger and pine nuts. Pour the dressing over the salad, toss well, and serve.
WOK-TOSSED PORK WITH MISO GLAZE
4 servings
   
Chef Yan recommends serving this dish with soybean fried rice and miso soup.
   1 pound boneless pork, thinly sliced (can substitute chicken or turkey)
   1 teaspoon soy sauce
   1 teaspoon cornstarch
Sauce:
   ½ cup chicken broth
   1½ tablespoons white miso
   1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
   1 tablespoon sweet chili sauce
   1 tablespoon vegetable oil
   ½ yellow onion, cut into ½ -inch cubes
   
In a bowl, combine the pork, soy sauce and cornstarch, and mix well.
   To make the sauce, combine the sauce ingredients in a small bowl and mix well.
   Place a stir-fry pan over high heat until hot. Add the oil, swirling to coat the sides. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the pork and stir-fry until it is no longer pink, 2½ to 3 minutes. Add the sauce, bring to a boil, and cook until the sauce thickens slightly, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a serving plate and serve.
BAKED BLACK-BEAN CATFISH
4 servings
Stir-fried Swiss chard and rice are suggested accompaniments.
Marinade:
   2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
   1 tablespoon black bean garlic sauce
   1½ teaspoons sesame oil
   1 teaspoon sugar
   1 pound catfish fillet, cut into 4 equal pieces
   1 tablespoon vegetable oil
   ½ yellow onion, thinly sliced
   
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
   To make the marinade, combine the marinade ingredients into a bowl and mix well. Add the fish and turn to coat evenly. Let stand for 10 minutes.
   Place a stir-fry pan over high heat until hot. Add the oil, swirling to coat the sides. Add the onion and stir-fry until the onion begins to brown on the edges, about 2 minutes. Spread out the onion in an aluminum foil-lined, rimmed baking sheet. Arrange the fish over the onion and drizzle with the remaining marinade.
   Bake uncovered, until the fish is opaque and just begins to flake, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a serving plate and spoon any juices over the top.
For more information about "The Book & The Cook", see www.thebookandthecook.com.
Margaret Kuo’s is located at 175 E. Lancaster Ave., Wayne, Pa., (610) 688-7200.