Capalbo’s

Chambersburg is alive and well with the addition of Chef Jason Kuey and his Asian-fusion touch to classic Italian and Mediterranean food.

By: Faith Bahadurian

Capalbo’s

1218 S. Clinton Ave.

Trenton

(609) 396-4188

www.capalbosrestaurant.com



Food: Mostly very good

Service: Professional

Prices: Moderate

Cuisine: Mediterranean

Vegetarian Options: Some appetizers, salads and pasta, plus vegetarian platter prepared upon request.

Ambience: Comfort and elegance

Hours: Lunch: Tues.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Dinner: Tues.-Thurs. 5-9 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 5-10 p.m., Sun. 4-9 p.m.

Essentials: Major credit cards accepted; wheelchair accessible except for bar area; smoking at bar only; reservations recommended; parking in adjacent lot.

Directions

   Oh, Capalbo’s, why did I wait so long to visit you? I confess I’ve gotten out of the habit of dining in Trenton’s Chambersburg neighborhood, clearly a mistake. Because in the space that was once occupied by Cricket’s, a new chef/owner, Jason Kuey, has brought his own vision to the restaurant over the last three years.
   Chef Kuey, who attended the Culinary Institute of America, had previously worked at Cricket’s. Upon buying it, he changed the name (Capalbo was his grandmother’s maiden name), but kept the spiffy brass and etched glass furnishings, which create an air of old-world elegance. A partially enclosed bar, reminiscent of a vintage railroad car, is up a couple of steps, a gorgeous setting for pre- or post-dinner libations. This is, I was told, a favorite spot for Trenton politicos in search of a little privacy (and a seriously good meal).
   The menu goes beyond Italy to upscale Continental dishes and even hints of Chef Kuey’s Italian-Chinese heritage with creations like a shrimp and bruschetta spring roll appetizer and, in the entrées, anatra (duck) Orientale, duck breast with orange blasé, basmati rice and vegetable spring roll. There is also a page of well-priced early-bird specials.

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TIMEOFF PHOTOS/MARK CZAJKOWSKI

   Weekly specials are printed out and change each Friday. While I resisted a special venison entrée, I tried a special appetizer of panko-coated fried oysters ($12.95), which was quite good. Crisp oysters held center stage on the plate, surrounded by three half-shells holding three dipping sauces: spicy wasabi (my favorite), house-made tartar sauce and classic cocktail sauce. One of my companions likewise enjoyed antipasto Capalbo ($8.95), with grilled portabella mushrooms, prosciutto, roasted red pepper and fresh mozzarella, with a balsamic reduction. My other friend’s mussels Posilipo ($7.50) were small and tender, but a little overwhelmed by their intense tomato sauce.

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   Entrées come with soup or salad, and for a $1.95 surcharge my two companions "upgraded" from house to Caesar and spinach salads. The Caesar was fine, but I miss the days of classic Caesar, where uncooked egg and anchovy filets held sway. The spinach salad was tossed with bacon, red pepper and Feta cheese, but while the balsamic vinaigrette was delicious it had been applied with a heavy hand. I opted for the soup de jour, a spring-like creamy asparagus that was just perfect for one of the first warm evenings of the season.
   Entrées were very good. My filetti di dentice ($24.95), like all portions here, was generously sized. Striped bass was sautéed with orange segments, capers and olives. It was served in white wine sauce with sautéed spinach and two huge halves of grilled potato. One of my friends chose filetto di vitello ($23.95), pan-roasted tender veal fillet with ginger demi-glace. It came with asparagus and browned potato gnocchi. Like my hunks of grilled potato, the gnocchi were a little heavy in comparison to the rest of the plate’s components; a more delicate touch with the starches would please me more (but maybe not those politicos).
   The third entrée, involtini di pollo quarto formaggio ($19.50), was chicken and cheese heaven. Our attentive waiter warned my friend that it was a lot of cheese, but he stuck to his guns and was glad he did. Chicken breast had been pounded thin, then layered with prosciutto, rolled, breaded and fried crisp. Then it was sliced open on an angle like a spring roll. Out poured a molten stream of goat, blue ricotta and Parmesan cheeses. This was accompanied by sautéed spinach and tender fettucini in shallot cream sauce. It could have been too heavy, but it wasn’t. I got one delicious bite, and I never saw a plate so clean as that one at the end.
   Service throughout our meal was pleasant and attentive, with a couple of minor glitches. I do not think that in a fine-dining restaurant anyone’s plate should be removed until all diners are finished with that course, but I suspect that impatient diners have led to a loosening of that bit of graciousness. Also, we were a bit (OK, a lot) confused when the silverware for our main courses was offered to us from a folded napkin holding three each of fork, knife and spoon. It must be a hygiene thing, but it felt like work to have to pick them out ourselves.
   In addition to the full bar and ample wine list, there is a small menu of specialty martinis ($8) and by-the-glass wines ($5-$7). We enjoyed our glasses of Shiraz ($5), Chianti ($6) and Pinot Grigio ($7), but maybe on another visit I’ll be in the mood for a Flirtini or a Mint Chocolate Chip Martini — for dessert.
   We did try two "real" desserts ($5), gratified to find they are made in house. Crème brulée was a perfect rendition of crisp top and tender custard. And a crispy crepe bowl filled with vanilla ice cream, banana, caramel and chocolate was as much fun to look at as it was to break apart and eat, as we enjoyed coffee. Kudos to Jason Kuey, who obviously takes great care, not just with those desserts, but with each element of a winning meal. This is a real find, we told ourselves on the way out. And, oh yes, there’s plenty of free parking right next to the restaurant, so bring a crowd.