A huge array of tequilas and a large, varied menu make this Chalfont, Pa., mainstay the place to go for authentic Mexican food.
By: Richard Burns
Los Sarapes |
Mexican restaurants in this country can be classified into two broad categories. The first, which includes most chain Mexican restaurants and many that are independently owned, feature Mexican dishes from Northern Mexico, which are considered lunch or snack food in most parts of Mexico. These include tacos, enchiladas and chimichangas (a burrito that has been deep-fried), plus a few others. Most are served with Mexican rice and refried beans with lots of sour cream and cheese. Many of these dishes are very good, but they really do not represent the range and elegance of the Mexican cuisine.
The second group of restaurants focuses totally or largely on the kind of Mexican dishes one would be served in a quality restaurant in Mexico City, Oaxaca, Guadalajara or other cities in Mexico. There are fewer of these and they tend to have larger and more varied menus, and try very hard to replicate authentic Mexican food. Los Sarapes is a very good example of the second type.
Los Sarapes, which means a woven shawl or poncho, is housed in its own building. Tables are attractively covered in dark blue and white. Cloth napkins and old-fashioned Fiestaware complete the picture. There is an attractive Mexican fountain displayed in the center of the first dining room.
As befits a first-class Mexican restaurant, the bar features a huge array of tequilas for the connoisseur of that type of drink. More important for the average customer is that the margaritas are not made from a mix but rather from scratch using a name-brand tequila and fresh lime juice. They are good-sized and served in Mexican glassware, a treat that is worth the trip in itself. A large selection of Mexican beers and an adequate wine list, with several Mexican wines, is also available.
The menu is large and varied. About eight appetizers are offered including ceviche ($9.95), four varieties of quesadilla ($6.99 to $9.99 for the shrimp), and tamales ($9.95). We elected to try the guacamole ($4.50 for two) and the sopes o picaditas ($7). The freshly made guacamole was served with homemade corn tortilla chips. It was quite good, although I thought it needed more spice. No problem our waitress was able to provide some hot sauce that did the trick. The sopes are small round tarts made with cooked corn masa topped with hot sauce, fresh cheese, chopped onions and cilantro. I have eaten these in Mexico on many occasions and they were as good as any I have had.
Several salads are offered ($4.95-$14.95, for a seafood salad). We decided to pass on the salads and try the homemade soups, which were available mild or spicy. Rose had the tortilla soup, mild ($5.25), which was a chicken and tomato stock with chicken, corn tortilla strips and garnished with avocado. I had the caldo xochitl, spicy ($5.25), a mix of chicken stock with vegetables, rice, pico de gallo, guacamole and fresh cheese. Both soups were outstanding.
The array of entreés was so broad we had trouble choosing. A limited number of the more traditional Mexican restaurant dishes are offered, such as enchiladas ($14.95), Mexican combo ($15.95, enchiladas, tacos and tostada) and a fajita quesadilla ($15.95). There are meat, chicken and seafood dishes available in abundance. Chuleta de puerco, a boneless grilled pork dish with a pepper sauce that was flambéed ($17.95), was very appealing. So was the mole poblano ($18.95), the classic Mexican dish of chicken breast with a spicy chocolate sauce. The dish I should have ordered was the whole red snapper ($25.99), which we saw served at another table. It looked marvelous and I plan to try it in the future.
I am particularly fond of how Mexicans handle shrimp, and had the camarones a la Diabla ($19.99). About a half-dozen medium shrimp had been grilled and were served with a wonderful creamy chipotle-habanero sauce. The shrimp were perfectly cooked and the sauce had just the right degree of spiciness. It was served with plain rice and a small fresh green salad. Rose chose the pollo 2 queso ($17.95). It consisted of a boneless chicken breast that had been pounded, breaded and sautéed with a chili relleno stuffed with corn and topped with a creamy cheese sauce. The blend of crisp chicken, sauce and chili made a great dish.
A limited number of deserts are offered and include a flan ($4) and a key lime pie ($5). We tried the three-milk cake ($5), a large square of moist white cake with a brandy and kahlua sauce, and the crepas con cajeta ($6), homemade crepes topped with milk caramel and vanilla ice cream. Both were fine, although the crepes would have been better warmed.
The service was friendly, accommodating and prompt, except that our wine order did not arrive until we were well into our entrée. Los Sarapes is a lively place the noise level is high. On Wednesday and Saturday nights there is live Mexican music. The lunch menu is a miniature of the dinner menu, but with more emphasis on the more common Mexican dishes. A Sunday buffet brunch is offered at $13.95 per person.
We enjoyed our experience at Los Sarapes. The food is well-prepared and highly authentic. The prices are a bit higher than most Mexican restaurants, but are consistent with the quality and validity of the food. If you love good Mexican food, it is well worth the trip even if you do not live nearby. We will definitely be back.