After 18 years of success in New Brunswick, this Italian restaurant is still in top form.
By: Antoinette Buckley
Panico’s is located at the heart of restaurant-savvy New Brunswick, where it has been a perfect fit for 18 years. The restaurant’s competence may not be apparent immediately, however. Its dim lighting casts a glow on a salmon pink color scheme, retro (in the outdated sense) mirrored walls and boxy table layouts. Before the mood slips away into the mindset of "just another Italian restaurant," a fresh pink rose on every table, tailored service and live jazz transforms hum drum aesthetics to elite dining.
The lush menu manages to cover it all and does so without being hackneyed. The quintessential menu, representing all that Americans love about Italian, is here before you. Homemade pasta is used in several pasta dishes. "Del giorno" applies to the risotto, the steak, the osso buco, and the whole fish, signifying a range of creativity, and a commitment to the freshest, most available, seasonal ingredients. Cooking techniques are notably superior and, at the same time, simple. The seemingly trivial practice of leaving garlic in slivers for the diner who wants to avoid them is not only authentic, but imparts a subtlety I seek in Italian food.
Head chef Nestor Ramos, a self-taught success story, began as a dishwasher for the restaurant 11 years ago. For the past two years as head chef, he has been cultivating a knack for bringing out the best in fresh ingredients. Tomatoes, especially when in season, come out from his kitchen in top form, greens cooked and uncooked are handled impeccably, and fish preparation strikes that delicate balance between unembellished and interesting.
Mouthful after mouthful, starting with an overflowing breadbasket served with the deepest olive oil, confirms that Panico’s is indeed something special. If it isn’t clear from the varied list of classic and innovative antipasto choices, then at least one of the 11 pasta dishes (primi piatti), described with mouthwatering detail, is sure to get you hook, line and sinker.
In our case, both antipasto and primo piatto proved exhilarating. Torta di granchio ($15) is one fabulous crab cake (or, in this case, two) flecked with bits of red pepper, green pepper and pignoli nuts elegantly presented with a cherry tomato coulis and an herb-infused oil. Agnolloti di pollo ($19) is a homemade spin-off of ravioli. Crescent-shaped pasta pockets with firm (almost too firm) fluted edges are stuffed with chicken and spinach. Although the sheer delight of homemade pasta is enough to find joy in the dish, it’s the wild mushroom sauce with cream that becomes a memory you’ll want to relive.
The risotto of the day ($13 for a half portion) featured rather drab pieces of pork against a canvas of color, incorporating bright green peas, deeply red grape tomatoes and earthy brown mushrooms. All these were worked into Arborio rice, cooked al dente, and a clear Provolone cheese sauce, neither of which added the cohesiveness imagined. Overall, the flavors were there, but the desired texture, as is often the case with risotto, was debatable.
I savored every moist, sweet morsel of the branzino fish (striped sea bass) cooked whole ($33), expertly filleted tableside, and served with a jumble of sautéed onions, sweet tomatoes, kalamata olives and the tangy component of capers. The sautéed spinach served alongside was perfect in every way.
Tender and flavorful baby rack of lamb ($33) is served with an Italian signature. The meat is pan seared and then placed in a savory brandy-based broth incorporating slivers of sweet leeks, tomatoes and dynamic artichokes that were, of course, fresh, not canned. Sautéed escarole is served alongside.
Panico’s has an award-winning, extensive list of fine wines, specializing in the region of Tuscany to complement its Northern Italian slant. Wines by the glass are adequate and represent one of the more economical choices on the list. A glass of 2000 Pinot Noir from Rutz Cellars ($8.50) in California gracefully bridged courses.
The staff is professional through and through. The maitre d’ was hospitable even when our reservation time had to be changed at the last minute and although we were not seated immediately, he invited us to sit at the bar and checked in periodically during our short wait.
At the table, the only thing lacking attention was our water glasses. Our server was proactive in accommodating us throughout the meal. She engaged warmth and knowledge instead of pretentiousness. Her recommendations led us to two successful desserts. The house specialty, Tiramisu ($10), is lovely, but for coffee lovers only as java is prominent. And, who couldn’t fall in love with the chocolate soufflé ($12), a risen treat in which chocolate runneth over?
Panico’s has received numerous awards and accolades during its 18 years in business. Sometimes when a restaurant comes with such a stacked résumé, it’s a recipe for disappointment. Not so here. The only thing run-of-the-mill at Panico’s is the space. Service and food break the mold.