Sometimes the simplest recipes are actually the trickiest
By: Pat Tanner
Earlier this month, on what turned out to be the last of those preternaturally warm and sunny fall weekends, the Central New Jersey chapter of Slow Food held its fourth annual all-bird barbecue at Griggstown Quail Farm & Market. Farmer George Rude and his wife, Joan, played hosts, as they do each year.
Slow Food members, under the direction of Jim Weaver executive chef and co-owner of Tre Piani restaurant, who is also the leader of the chapter served up a seasonal feast highlighted by roast pheasant, rotisserie-roasted poussin, free-range chicken and Asian-spiced quail, rounded out with hot pasta and assorted salads and breads.
Since the farm provides birds to D’Artagnan, the foie gras and game purveyor, samples of their sausages, pates and truffled foie gras mousse were offered, and sweets including made-from-scratch fruit pies, brownies, cookies and bars came directly from Griggstown Farm’s own kitchen, courtesy of executive chef Matt Sietsma and pastry chef Fern Holody.
The nearly 200 guests, young and old, relaxed at umbrella-topped tables perched on the emerald green grounds, listening to live music. Many hopped onto a wagon lined with hay bales for a tour of the farm, which is home to 60,000 birds, including two breeds each of duck and turkey.
Sometimes the simplest recipes are actually the trickiest: Think of roast turkey, omelets, and anything grilled. Below, Jim Weaver offers both his tips and his best recipe for making perfect barbecued chicken every time.
SIMPLE BARBECUED CHICKEN
Jim Weaver, executive chef & co- owner,
Tre Piani Restaurant
1 chicken, cut into quarters, bone in
For the dry rub mix:
4 tablespoons brown sugar
3 tablespoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon Cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons black pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
For the barbecue sauce:
¼ cup cooking oil
1 small onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 red pepper, diced
2/3 cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup brown sugar
Salt and pepper to taste
- Mix together thoroughly the dry rub ingredients. Rub the chicken pieces all over with the mixture; let the chicken rest for at least 15 minutes or as long as overnight. (The flavors will permeate deeper the longer it marinates.)
- Preheat grill on high heat, making sure the grates are clean. Add the chicken pieces and lower the heat to medium. (The thicker the chicken pieces the longer the cooking time, thus cook it at a longer time at a lower heat to prevent burning). Cook the chicken with the lid closed and check it often to make sure it does not burn. Adjust the heat accordingly, allowing common sense to dictate whether the bird is cooking too quickly or too slowly.
- Meanwhile, or up to a week ahead of time, make the barbecue sauce. In a saucepan, combine the oil, garlic, onion and red pepper. Let the mixture cook slowly until the vegetables are soft. Add the brown sugar and cook, stirring, until sugar is melted. Add the vinegar, bring to a boil, and season to taste with salt and pepper. This sauce may be pureed if desired.
- When the chicken is less than 2 minutes away from being cooked to your desired doneness, baste it with the sauce. Turn once and baste the other side. Serve.
LINZER SQUARES
Fern Holody, pastry chef,
Griggstown Quail Farm
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
1 cup brown sugar
½ cup sugar
1-1/3 cup toasted nuts, finely chopped
2 eggs
2½ cups flour
¼ cup cocoa powder
½ teaspoon ground cloves
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon allspice
1½ cups raspberry jam
1 egg white, lightly beaten
- Cream butter and sugars until light and fluffy. Stir in nuts and eggs.
- Sift dry ingredients together and add to butter mixture to form a dough. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour or overnight.
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9- x 13-inch baking pan and press two-thirds of the dough into the pan. Spread raspberry jam over the dough.
- Roll out remaining dough and cut into strips for a lattice top. Crisscross the strips on the diagonal to make the lattice. Brush with egg white and bake in preheated oven for 30 minutes. Cool, then cut into squares. (Chill the pan in the refrigerator to make cutting easier.)
Jim Weaver’s grilling pointers
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Pat Tanner can be heard each Saturday morning on "Dining Today with Pat Tanner" on MoneyTalk AM 1350 and over www.moneytalk1350.com from 9 to 10 a.m.