El Cactus

This cozy Fountainville, Pa., spot offers an outstanding drink menu, upbeat service and both traditional and unique Mexican favorites.

By: Amy Brummer
  The first time I drove past El Cactus, I made a note of how cute it was, its pink-scalloped awnings perking up an otherwise bland stretch of Route 313 just outside of Doylestown, Pa. I was delighted to see that this carried over to its interior, where warm saturated ochre, brick red, grassy green and dark brown wood transform the wide-planked wainscoting and textured plaster walls from Bucks County farmhouse to cozy Mexican café.
   When the restaurant opened in May 2003, it was a second location for the Souderton, Pa., restaurant of the same name. Since then, the two have been sold to different owners, and while they both share a name, they are operated independently. Stuart Plotnick purchased the Fountainville location in May 2004, bringing with him nearly two decades in the hospitality and food industry, and his experience comes through in the details.

El Cactus

3617 Ferry Road

Fountainville, Pa.

(215) 348-1235

www.elcactusfountainville.com



Food: Good to very good

Service: Friendly, attentive and upbeat

Prices: Moderate

Cuisine: Mexican

Vegetarian Options Several entrées and appetizers

Ambience: Cozy Mexican café

Hours: Lunch: Tues.-Wed. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., Thurs.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m.; Dinner: Sun., Tues.-Thurs. 4-9
p.m., Fri.-Sat. 4-10 p.m.

Essentials: Accepts major credit cards; wheelchair accessible; no smoking; full bar.

Directions

 
   When we arrived, the hostess sat us immediately, and in a few minutes the server came to take our drink order. But we were unprepared and needed more time to explore the outstanding drink menu, comprised of several house specialties, many made from top-shelf tequilas, which also included a primer on the history of tequila and different types of distillation — blanco, reposado and anejo. We bypassed the margaritas, which range in quality from a standard house to double super premium, in favor of two tequila cocktails — the Mexican Mule ($6), mixed with ginger ale, and the Tarantula’s Poison ($6), mixed with cranberry and sweetened lime. They were dangerously delicious and smooth and combined nicely with the mild, housemade corn chips and salsa. The restaurant also carries Mexican bottled beer as well as American drafts and bottles, a few wine options and a full bar.
   We chose the quesadilla tinga ($8.95) and the tamales from an appetizer list that included standards such as nachos ($8.95) and guacamole ($4.95 for two/$8.95 for four) as well as sopes ($7.95) and jalapeños rellenos ($7.95). Both were garnished with the tasty house guacamole, sour cream and salsa, the latter of which suffered from flavorless tomatoes. But the dishes themselves needed little accompaniment, as the quesadilla was rich and smoky, stuffed with shredded beef, sausage and tangy stewed tomatoes. The tamales were excellent, moist and creamy with a pure flavor that mirrored the gentle aroma of corn that permeated the room.
   A Caesar salad ($6.95) did not live up to the other dishes. Though its presentation of crisp leaves in a tortilla shell was attractive, the dressing was pedestrian and it was not enhanced by a garnish of soft, mild cheese.
   Entrées include items wrapped in corn or flour tortillas such as burritos, tacos, fajitas, enchiladas and chimichangas prepared with veggies, chicken or shredded beef in addition to several unique items. A grilled filet mignon wrapped in bacon topped with rajas and cheese ($17.95), jumbo shrimp and chipotle sauce ($15.95) and a special of red snapper marinated in lime juice ($15.95) all sounded enticing, but I wanted to put the mole sauce to the test with an order of pollo mole ($14.95). We also couldn’t resist the description of chiles en nogada ($13.95), a special that night, consisting of ground beef, pork, apples, pears, peaches, plantains, raisins and almonds stuffed in a poblano pepper with walnut sauce.
   It was unquestionably the best stuffed pepper I have ever eaten, with its multiple sweet and savory components marrying together inside the mild spiciness of the poblano. The nutty sauce and sprinkle of tart, crunchy pomegranate seeds gave it further depth. We were honestly sad to finish it because we wanted more time to acquaint ourselves with its flavor.
   The mole sauce also scored high points for balance and complexity. While I prefer dark meat poultry to be used with a mole, the chicken breast was fine, and the sauce made up for the slight dryness of the meat. Rich and chocolaty, the mole had subtle, earthy undertones that complemented its velvety texture and was enlivened by deeply roasted sesame seeds.
   Since we had enjoyed so much of our dinner, I threw caution to the wind when ordering dessert, taking a chance on the fried ice cream ($4.25), of which I am usually dubious. I should have stuck to my instincts because it is a truly bizarre dessert, and the ice cream has to be frozen so solid that even after time in the fryer, it is rock hard. Additionally, the corn shell was gummy and tasted like oil, which is not a flavor I want interacting with ice cream. The pastel con tres leches ($4.50) was better, but the cake could have been more moist and it had a slight flavor of the refrigerator. But the coffee ($1.75) was excellent, strong and dark, and cut through the sweetness of the desserts.
   Even though a couple of things didn’t hit a high note, the overall meal was great, we really enjoyed the atmosphere and the service was friendly, attentive and upbeat. I truly look forward to trying the chiles en nogada again to pinpoint some of the flavors in hopes of recreating it one day, but the mole sauce alone would be worth the return visit.