Unique Tuscan fare and creamy Italian desserts contribute to a lively atmosphere at this Newtown, Pa., spot.
By: Amy Brummer
It is hard to capture the warmth of a Tuscan sun on an icy winter
night, but our recent meal at Il Sol in Newtown, Pa., did wash away some of the
seasonal chill with a lively menu and festive atmosphere. The night of our meal,
there was a party in the large middle room, and as we walked to our table past
a buffet of hot and cold appetizers, our interest was immediately piqued. Jazz
pianist Barbara Trent was holding court in the bar area and the sound of her exuberant
vocals added to the hum and chatter of the room on a busy Saturday night.
Seated in one of the back dining rooms, we took a few moments
to look at the menu before ordering a glass of the house Montepulciano ($5) and
the house Pinot Grigio ($6). A plate of diced tomato and olive oil with crostini
arrived with our drinks, and we were surprised by the flavor of the rather pale
winter tomatoes, the kitchen having coaxed the flavor out of them with just enough
salt to keep them from tasting briny.
The menu lists several cecchetti small tasting plates
that give diners the option of crafting a unique dining experience of many tastes,
or sticking to a traditional appetizer and main course. Interesting choices include
salmon and tuna carpaccio ($10), marinated mushroom and asparagus ($7), garlic
lime clams ($9), and prosciutto purses with a limoncello sauce ($6).
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Il Sol Tuscan Grill |
We chose to each split a hot and cold cecchetti as a prelude
to the main course. We began with an air-dried beef ($8) plated over greens with
figs and shaved Parmesan and a tuna tartar ($10). The tuna arrived silky and pink,
with a fresh flavor accented by the jamminess of an onion confit. The dried beef
was equally lovely in its presentation, and the thin burgundy slices draped over
the peppery greens had an enjoyable balance when combined with the sharp cheese
and sweet, firm figs.
Unquestionably, the star of the second course was the calamari
fritti ($7), the tiniest, most delicate rings of squid I have ever seen, piled
in a little tangle on a square black plate. The accompanying tomato sauce was
piquant but did not detract from the subtle flavor. Penne with sausage ($5) was
less exciting, but not because of the combination of peppery arugula and earthy
mushrooms that rounded the dish. The pasta had cooled off considerably by the
time it reached the table, which dulled the texture and taste.
Main courses also had a mix of ups and downs. From a range of
choices including hickory-grilled salmon ($16), crab ravioli ($17), a veal chop
($27) and crispy fire roasted duck ($26), we chose a strip steak and sea scallops,
a special that night. The strip steak ($25) billed as being finished with "olive
tree dust and sea salt" was perfectly cooked to medium-rare and was a beautiful
cut of meat. Unfortunately, the olive tree dust and sea salt never registered
past the demi-glace that blanketed it, but the risotto of the day, sun-dried tomato/mushroom
and spinach, made up for it with its perfectly creamy, al dente texture and rich
flavor. Sea scallops ($20) were firm, sweet and juicy, but the hand-tied tortellini
stuffed with potato that garnished the plate were bland and again, too cold to
appreciate.
But the desserts helped end the evening on a high note
tiramisu and Italian rum cake ($5.95 each) were light, creamy and fluffy with
true flavors that kept the sweetness in check. Our only complaint at this point
was the server, who would disappear when we were looking for water, or coffee,
and when she returned to the room, would keep her back to us so that it was difficult
to get her attention. We flagged another waiter several times instead.
For New Year’s Eve, Il Sol is offering a limited menu, with
two sittings, one at 6 p.m. ($50) and one at 9 p.m. ($75), and Ms. Trent will
be performing. The four-course meal looks to be a combination of its best dishes,
and combined with the warm, lively atmosphere, it would make a good choice to
cast off the short days of December and welcome in the New Year.

