With its historic setting, warm welcome and well-executed mostly Italian cuisine, this canal-side spot is a fine addition to the New Hope, Pa., dining scene.
By: Tom and Kate O’Neill
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Esca |
(TIMEOFF PHOTOS/FRANK WOJCIECHOWSKI)
Esca makes its first impression with a dramatic setting in a centuries-old former stable, first used for barge mules. Over the past 200 years, it has also served as an inn, a bar, a brothel, an artist’s residence and, most recently, a Brazilian restaurant with the same name (Esca in Brazilian Portuguese is "to lure"; in Italian it is "bait.").
From street level, steep, uneven stone stairs descend to Esca’s front courtyard, and by night, the surefootedness of a mule would be an asset. In warm weather, tables fill a terrace by the canal, but even on a balmy evening, treat yourself to a look inside before settling in outside. The small bar, with its beamed cathedral ceiling, ziggurat fireplace, hanging Moorish lamps and bright colors, could be in Tangier. In the dining room, the rough stone walls one lit by a bank of flickering votives and sturdy wooden posts and beams recall another time. A large, circular fire pit, reportedly converted from the mules’ watering trough, dominates the room. Our seat next to the fire was perfect on the cool night we visited.
The second impression is the warmth of the welcome from Federico Scotto and Lee Gray, the new owners. Mr. Gray showed us to our table and enthusiastically sketched the history of the restaurant and the building. We enjoyed an extended conversation with Mr. Scotto after our meal and learned that he and Mr. Gray previously worked at Carlucci’s Grill in West Windsor. Throughout the meal, service was thoughtful, friendly and efficient.
The third and most important impression is the food. Esca characterizes itself as offering Italian food and more. That’s true, but the emphasis is definitely Italian. The menu is relatively brief and the choices familiar. The seven antipasti include bruschetta with diced tomatoes and olive oil ($6) and mussels sautéed in either a red or white sauce ($9). The five pasta dishes include cavatelli alla Esca, with homemade pasta, prosciutto and grape tomatoes sautéed with garlic in olive oil ($18). Among seven regular entrees are crab cakes with an orange basic aioli, a garlicky Provençal mayonnaise ($24). Our server, Rachel, recited the night’s specials, which included lobster-asparagus ravioli and eggplant Parmesan.
Warm, crusty bread dipped in herbed olive oil fueled our consideration of the menu as we sipped two wines ordered by the glass, a fine, dry Pinot Grigio from Due Jarri ($6) and a robust Chianti ($6.50). The appetizers arrived quickly. Vongole della casa was a platter of 16 plump, juicy clams in white sauce salted with pieces of prosciutto ($9). When only the shells remained, we extended our enjoyment by dipping the accompanying bread into the rich, briny sauce. Just as good was pan-seared gamberi all’ arancio ($9), in which orange juice replaced the usual lemon, lending a new dimension to the traditional scampi dish.
From the regular entrée menu, tilapia picatta ($22) was a generous filet sautéed in the classic lemon, butter, white wine sauce and topped with artichoke hearts and capers. Dishes here are not plated artfully, but are straightforward presentations of the meal. The tilapia was crowded by portions of asparagus, roasted potatoes and a seaweed salad with sesame oil that was a surprising, but winning complement. (Remember: Italian and more.)
Lamb chops ($29) were described on the menu as lollipop-sized, but these lollipops were all-day suckers. Marinated and grilled, the lamb came precisely as ordered: medium rare, inviting to be eaten without benefit of knife and fork. The outside was crusty from the grill, and the meat was tender and savory. Again, the plate was crowded, with sautéed spinach and potatoes. These chops needed no condiment to bring out their excellence, and a superfluous mustard sauce merely took up space.
The dessert menu is announced by the server, which can strain the memory of the well-fed diner. Among the choices, all in the $7 range, were carrot cake, cannoli and hazelnut gelato. The Irish Cream crème brulée ($7) had the crisp sugar shell of the classic preparation with the soft, sweet interior that was enhanced by the subtle presence of the liqueur. The wedge of tiramisu ($7) was bland and less successful. The accompanying espresso ($3) and cappuccino ($4.50) were dense and frothy.
The wine list, like the menu, is brief, but with a range of moderately priced selections complementary to the menu. It includes three sparkling wines ($25-$76), eight whites, including four from Italy ($23-$39) and 12 reds ($23-$48), including the reliably rich Ruffino Chianti Classico. The list includes three Italian "Special Wines" ($52-$74), including an Amarone.
The lasting impression of the new Esca is that it is a fine addition to the vibrant New Hope, Pa., dining scene. The setting is unique, the service friendly, the dishes well conceived and the presentation unpretentious, if a bit slapdash. The canal-side terrace should be a magnet when warm evenings arrive, but don’t miss that bar when you visit.

