There’s a party going on at this resort and restaurant, and everyone is invited.
By: Amy Brummer
A New Hope, Pa., institution
for more than 25 years, The Raven invokes a sense of mystery not just from
its namesake, but because the fence that shelters it from the busy intersection
gives this mini-complex an air of seclusion and remove.
Is that a palm tree out by the pool? Yes, there’s a pool back
there, with a cabana, bar and many lounge chairs, but I could only get a glimpse
as we headed into the restaurant for dinner on a recent Saturday evening. Long
known as a destination catering to a gay crowd, yet open to all, The Raven has
a reputation for fine dining, and while both have held true over the decades,
the resort has undergone a series of changes with new owners Rand Skolnick and
Terrence Meck.
|
The Raven |
In the two years since the couple purchased the property, it has undergone considerable renovation and expansion, including a gut makeover of the rooms and the addition of a charming garden patio, with further developments in store. A former publicist who has worked for Gucci and Wine Spectator, Mr. Meck is a devoted enthusiast of the grape, and he has compiled a luscious wine list that traverses the globe.
Broken down by profile, the bottles range in character and price from a "crisp, light refreshing" Italian Pinot Grigio ($23) to a "complex, full-bodied" Berringer Private Reserve Cabernet from the Napa Valley ($210). The list fits its surroundings well, as the atmosphere at The Raven is a mixture of casual and formal elements, ranging from the relaxed poolside to the handsome elegance of its indoor bar, the Oak Room. The dining room is something of a middle ground, where rustic, wood-paneled walls, tidy banquettes and an inviting circular fireplace combine to create the feeling of an upscale lodge, trimmed with a few fancy flourishes and flattering light.
Seated by the bay of windows overlooking the garden, we began our meal with an order of calamari ($12) and the paté maison ($10), one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. In an innovative turn, the crispy squid was tossed with country ham and peas, bringing in smoky and salty flavors that were rounded out with a gentle Parmesan cream.
We also enjoyed the well-seasoned, velvety paté, but were put off by the canned olives that accompanied it on the plate. I had hoped the glass of Rotari Arte Italiana sparkling wine ($9) would make a fine complement, but was disappointed that it was flat, without enough fizz to cut through the rich dish.
Other appetizers include a nice selection of salads ($7-$13), a California antipasto ($12) with avocado, artichoke and fresh mozzarella, as well as treasures from the sea including rock shrimp bruschetta ($12), a Mexican crab cocktail ($13), shrimp martini ($13) and clams
casino ($10).
Service moved quickly without being rushed, and by the time we had finished our first course, the wait staff was in high gear as the dining room pushed full capacity. But this had little impact on our friendly, polished server, who deftly answered our questions about several dishes on the menu and did not hesitate to make minor suggestions.
Several entrées appealed to us, most notably the Maryland crab cake (another signature dish, $28), the grilled margarita salmon ($26) and the panko-crusted pork chop ($26). The menu also offers filet au poivre ($27), rack of lamb ($33), surf and turf ($37), raspberry chicken ($28) and four-cheese ravioli ($18). I was set on the seared scallops ($27), and the Thai duck ($26) intrigued us both.
Set around the edges of a bed of baby arugula, the scallops were meaty and sweet, perfectly tender and silken. The greens were topped with a reduction of mushroom and onion, and my only complaint was the dressing, as an excess of lemon juice threw the dish out of balance. In combination with the other ingredients, it was toned down a bit, and overall it was still a light, yet satisfying, dish.
The duck was a different sensation altogether, with a lacquered chili glaze that fused the flavor into the crisp skin. Served on a simple bed of rice with fresh, snappy green beans, the half duck was, for the most part, vibrant and juicy, with the exception of the leg, which was dry. We found that it paired acceptably with the lovely Mark West Pinot Noir ($9) that we ordered in lieu of the Rosenblum Zinfandel ($9), which was not available the evening we were there.
For dessert, we bypassed chocolate mousse and crème brulee in favor of the flourless chocolate torte and pecan pie (both $7). While both were too sweet for my tastes, I preferred the pecan pie to the dense cake, though I was secretly disappointed that with all of the delicious peaches, plums and apples in season, the "pie of the day" didn’t accommodate one of these temporal beauties.
As our evening wound down, the nightlife at The Raven was just getting started. At 10 p.m. on Saturdays, the Oak Room is transformed from sophisticated piano bar to New Hope’s hottest dance party. So for those who always wondered what goes on behind the fence at this cloistered resort, here’s the scoop there’s a party going on, and everyone’s invited.

