Beat of a Nation

The Royal Drummers of Burundi and Mombasa Party bring their rhythmic thunder to the State Theatre.

By: Susan Van Dongen
   In the East Central African country of Burundi, the president also has his own special group of musicians, bequeathed by the former king. Considered one of the greatest percussion ensembles in the world, the Royal Drummers of Burundi have performed for centuries as a part of ceremonies such as births, weddings, funerals, coronations and enthronements of kings.
   "The drums are beaten when we have an important person or dignitary visiting or for an official ceremony," says Gabriel Ntgabo, artistic director for the Royal Drummers of Burundi and a member of that country’s Ministry of Culture. "We don’t have a king, now we have a president who leads us. Everywhere the president goes, the drums are there. If he is in a remote part of the country, we get drummers from other parts of the country to play for him.
   "(The ensemble) is the most important thing we have to welcome an authority and the drum team is always there," he continues. "The drum is as old as Burundi — it began with the first king."
   The drummers, who have been taking their thunderous ensemble work on the road since the ’60s, have also captivated Western ears. Joni Mitchell is just one North American musician who was entranced by the sound of the Royal Drummers of Burundi. She recorded with them for the track "The Jungle Line" on her 1975 album The Hissing of Summer Lawns. Always an innovator, Ms. Mitchell was one of the first pop musicians to work with the drummers.
   Eccentric ’80s British groups Bow Wow Wow and Adam and the Ants also used double drumming on some of their pop songs, influenced by the Royal Drummers of Burundi.
   Drummer and music journalist Thomas Brooman saw the African percussionists perform in the early ’80s and, along with Peter Gabriel, was inspired to co-found the World of Music, Art and Dance Festival. That international event as well as an ever-growing catalog of recordings (on Mr. Gabriel’s Real World label), blew open the door to world music for Western ears.
   Now the Royal Drummers of Burundi are busier than ever, in the midst of a huge North American tour. They’ll be the featured performers at the State Theatre in New Brunswick Oct. 8, along with the lively opening ensemble Mombasa Party. The latter is a collaboration of several major artists and innovators of the taarab style, originating on the coast of Kenya in the 1950s.
   For the Royal Drummers of Burundi, the drums themselves are sacred and represent the powers of fertility and regeneration. In fact, the stretched skin of the drum has been likened to a baby’s cradle, the pegs are symbolic of the mother’s breasts and the body of the drum is linked with the abdomen.
   The individual musicians have an intimate, life-long connection with their instruments, since they craft the drums themselves.
   The large ingoma drums are made from hollowed out tree trunks covered with skin. "This word means ‘the wood which makes the drum talk,’" Mr. Ntgabo says. "It’s a very special tree because it lives a long time and it gives a nice sound to the drums."
   The smaller amashako drums provide a continuous beat and the ibishikiso drums follow the rhythm of the central inkiranya drum. The drummers are athletic dancers who take turns dancing around and playing the large central drum, whirling with energy, seeming to battle the other musicians for possession of the instrument.
   Mr. Ntgabo suggests that being a Royal Drummer is a sacred calling — you can’t call in sick if you are supposed to perform, especially at a VIP occasion. Nor will you find these drums in a store. He adds that he plays on a drum he crafted himself. The drummer says he’s been to the United States and North America a number of times with the ensemble, as part of the World of Music, Art and Dance Festival.
   "I’ve traveled and worked with the Royal Drummers of Burundi for about 25 years," he says. "This is our fifth time in the U.S., but it’s definitely our longest tour. This is the big one.
   "I can see the music becoming more and more popular," Mr. Ntgabo continues. "People really appreciate the shows. I think what the people like best is that, with this very traditional music, the drummers are playing for themselves, from the heart."
The Royal Drummers of Burundi and Mombasa Party will perform at the State Theatre, 15 Livingston Ave., New Brunswick, Oct. 8, 3 p.m. Tickets cost $25-$50. For information, call (732) 246-7469. On the Web: www.statetheatrenj.org