A well-bred bird or no bird at all are good reasons for giving thanks this year.
By: Amy Brummer
Yes, it’s that time of year again when people start seriously talking turkey, debating oven temperatures, basting, brining, deep-frying and even the dangerous flipping of the bird. The way I see it, if you have to cook it breast side down to keep it from drying out, then wrestle it back into proper serving position while risking second-degree burns, it might be time to try an upgrade.
As tempting as it is to buy a jumbo, frozen bird for 69 cents a pound, you will always have to overcome the hurdles of rehydrating thawed meat, which already starts you at a disadvantage. Fresh turkey, which averages closer to $3 a pound, is clearly a more precious investment but it’s also going to be the star of the meal. And in addition to the accolades you will receive from your guests who never believed turkey could taste so good spending that extra also shows a little respect for this spectacular, American beast.
In the wild, the turkey is wily and cunning, quick as a rabbit and glorious to behold. For a short time it was in the running to be the national bird, but instead it became the Rodney Dangerfield of fowl. Who knows how this majestic creature fell to such undeserving depths, because when prepared well, the dark meat is earthy and rich, the white meat tender and lean.
You have to start with a well-bred bird. At Bolton’s Farm Market in Silverdale, Pa., the turkeys are raised from birth right out behind the store, on the adjacent farm that has been in the family since 1933. Customers know exactly where their birds come from, and the standards of quality set by the family, which has been raising the turkeys for three generations. Charles Bolton’s father began raising turkeys on the farm in 1945, and the family has specialized in the birds ever since. His daughter, Torrie, and wife, Faye, run the market, and son, Todd, helps him manage the agricultural side. The business for whole birds spikes during the holidays, but the market sells a variety of turkey products sausages, soups, pot pies throughout the year.
The market also sells cuts of the farm’s own Angus beef (pastured on grass for most of the year), and all of the livestock is raised without hormones and antibiotics, and given access to fresh air and light.
With their red and blue heads poking out from a fluff of white feathers, the turkeys are alert and clear-eyed, unafraid, yet curious, when a stranger approaches the coop. After checking it out, they gobble in unison like fans at a college football game cheering the home team. It’s startling, yet good-natured in a welcoming sort of way, but it’s that glimmer of lively personality that reinforces why some people choose not to eat turkey at all.
With so much emphasis put on the holiday bird, it can be difficult for those who choose not to serve it to come up with equally festive dishes as their focal point.
Fish can be a worthy alternative, and it can be played up to pair well with the comforting foods of autumn. At Restaurant 552 in Newtown, Pa., chef Michael Kanter’s menu is strong on fish preparations, which he keeps current with the season.
"For this time of year," Mr. Kanter says, "I like something from the bass family like a barrimundi or branzino, which has a nice rich flavor. It’s great to use in a bouillabaisse with scallops, mussels and clams."
The Mediterranean flavors in the broth tomato, saffron, fennel and garlic make a nice complement to the sweetness of seasonal root vegetables and will add splash to the spread with its colors and aromas. An oyster bread pudding or autumn squash risotto (see recipes) will also give an air of elegance and substance to the holiday table, while a tart Waldorf salad picks up the flavors of fall.
Then there’s always the fail-safe plan for trying to accommodate a house full of family with different likes and dislikes make reservations. Mr. Kanter says it’s one of the easiest things to plan for Thanksgiving, and gives people a chance to actually enjoy the holiday.
For those who are less inclined to try his recipes at home, but think the dishes sound appealing, a buffet dinner will be served at 552 on Thanksgiving Day from noon to 8 p.m.
"I’m getting all these great root vegetables from the organic farmers right now," Mr. Kanter says. "We’ll have the traditional turkey, but there will also be vegetable purees, mousses, salads and seafood a lot of options and alternatives."
For fresh turkey: Bolton Farm Market is located on Route 113, Silverdale, Pa.
Hours: Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-6 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.-5 p.m. For information, call (215)
257-6047. Bolton Farm Market on the Web: www.boltonfarmmarket.com.
Zook’s BBQ Barn is located at Newtown Farmer’s Market, 2150 S. Eagle Road,
Newtown, Pa. Hours: Thurs. 9 a.m.-6 p.m., Fri. 9 a.m.-7 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.-4 p.m.
For information, call (215) 504-9292.<</i>br>
For reservations: Restaurant 552 is located at 552 Washington Crossing-Newtown
Road, Newtown, Pa. Thanksgiving dinner: Nov. 23, noon-8 p.m., $29, $12 ages 3-12.
For information, call (215) 968-5300. Restaurant 552 on the Web: www.552restaurant.com
Autumn Risotto
1 cup Arborio rice
¼ cup Spanish onion
½ cup diced butternut squash
¼ cup diced roasted red beets
¼ cup julienned Swiss chard
¼ cup butternut squash puree (recipe below)
1 tablespoon Parmigiano Reggiano
butter
salt and pepper
Bring 2½ cups water to a boil. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a saucepot, add the Spanish onion and sweat until translucent; add the rice and repeat. Pour in 1½ cups water and stir to loosen any rice that is starting to stick to the bottom. Simmer until the liquid cooks below the level of rice, pour onto a baking sheet and cool to room temperature. Sauté the squash and add the remaining boiling water. Add the rice mixture and bring to a simmer. Add the remaining ingredients and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Squash Puree
1 medium butternut squash, peeled and seeded
¼ lb. butter
1 cup milk
Place the squash in a saucepot, add the milk and cover with water. Bring to a boil and simmer until the squash is cooked through. Drain, and puree with the butter.
Waldorf Newtown
1 cup dried apricots, diced
1 cup dried figs, diced
1 cup celery, diced
1 cup apple, diced
1 cup dried cherries
walnuts
fig molasses
Champagne Vinaigrette:
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 shallot, chopped
1 clove garlic
½ cup champagne vinegar
¼ cup orange juice
¼ cup Rose’s lime juice
1 tablespoon chopped chives
1 teaspoon chopped tarragon
1 cup olive oil
canola or vegetable oil
Salt and pepper
Place the first four ingredients in a food processor and puree. Add the next five ingredients and while processing drizzle in the olive oil, adding as it emulsifies. Drizzle in the canola or vegetable oil, adding until a light mayonnaise consistency is achieved. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
To finish, place dried apricots, dried figs, celery, apple and dried cherries in a mixing bowl, adding enough vinaigrette to coat. Serve with walnuts and a drizzle of fig molasses.
Bouillabaisse Broth
1 small, whole red snapper chopped
olive oil
5 cloves garlic
1 carrot, chopped
4 ribs celery, chopped
1 Spanish onion, peeled and chopped
2 tomatoes, chopped
1 bulb fennel, fronds removed and chopped
4 sprigs fresh thyme
4 sprigs tarragon
3 bay leaves
5 black peppercorns
1 pinch of saffron
1 cup dry vermouth
1 gallon fish stock (you can substitute chicken stock)
salt and pepper
In a large saucepot, sweat the fish in the olive oil over medium heat. Add the other ingredients except for the last three. Cook until the vegetables start to caramelize. Add the vermouth and reduce until almost dry. Add the stock and reduce by one-third the volume. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and season with salt and pepper to taste.
To finish, cook desired fish (bass, scallops, mussels, clams, shrimp) in the stock and finish the broth with a pat of butter.
Oyster Bread Pudding
½ lb. diced bacon
2 cups diced Spanish onion
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
2 tablespoon chopped thyme
1 quart heavy cream
5 egg yolks
1 cup oysters, chopped
1½ lb. diced bread
1 tablespoon butter
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cook the bacon in a saucepot over medium heat until most of the fat is rendered and the bacon gets crispy. Add the onion and cook until translucent; add the garlic and thyme, and stir for about 30 seconds. Add the cream and bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer for about 5 minutes. Whisk the egg yolks and fold in the oysters. Add the cream mixture and season to taste. Place the bread in a mixing bowl and pour in the cream mixture; mix together. Grease a baking pan, press in the bread mixture and cover with aluminum foil. Bake for 40 minutes, remove foil and bake for another 10 minutes.
Recipes courtesy Michael Kanter, Restaurant 552.

