Time to talk turkey is here

Lee Farm a busy place as Thanksgiving Day nears

By: Dick Brinster
   EAST WINDSOR — An easy smile came to Ronny Lee’s face as he walked out of the barn on a warm and sunny November morning.
   "Let’s talk turkey," he said.
   And it could be argued that few know more about the subject than the sixth-generation owner of what he says is one of only four major farms in New Jersey where the big birds are processed for Thanksgiving and other occasions.
   The Lee Turkey Farm, a 54-acre spread on Hickory Corner Road, is an especially busy place in the final days leading to an observance history says began when the Pilgrims and Indians feasted on the rotund gobblers in 1621.
   The farm dates back to 1868, but it wasn’t until 70 years later that Ronny’s father, Richard, added the turkey business to his agricultural enterprise. Now, more than 140,000 birds later, Ronny Lee confesses that it began as a matter of circumstance.
   "That was in the days where there was so much farming and the 4H was involved in different areas of support," he explained. "Well, one of its groups only had one slot open, and that was turkeys, so that’s how he got into it."
   Mr. Lee says the quality of his birds and those of other reputable farms improved over what was sold in the days preceding World War II. It’s the manner and quantity in which the turkeys are housed and fed.
   "We start with 3,500 birds in our six barns, which could handle 6,000," he explained. "But by having only 3,500 you raise a healthier turkey because they’ve got more living space."
   Another reason the birds taste better, he said, is that the feed they consume is closely monitored. He acquires the birds each year from a Pennsylvania hatchery when they are but a day old and has total control over diet, health and housing until they are slaughtered.
   "The idea of free-range turkeys is pretty much over because of bird flu and other problems," Mr. Lee said. "Nobody is raising those things out in the open because that’s risking a serious problem to their flock.
   "It’s not about human health, but farmers taking their business seriously and not letting them out. If you let them run free, turkeys will eat a lot grass or bugs, and you’re going to get a gamy flavor."
   So his birds are corn-fed with protein added that he says makes them healthy and tasty. He starts with a high-protein diet that builds bone structure, then reduces the additive to allow the turkey to put on bulk and what he calls finish.
   That’s actually fat, something Mr. Lee says is necessary to ensure moist meat.
   "So many people are afraid of fat, but poultry fat is different than other kinds, and without it you’re going to have a dry turkey or chicken," he explained. "But we all buy our feed from different places, so nobody’s bird tastes the same."
   Mr. Lee said the original 2006 count of 3,500 turkeys has been reduced to 900 as Thanksgiving Day quickly approaches. Even though that’s the big day, which completes the fall sale of more than 2,000 birds, the market also is hot for Christmas, with turkeys sold virtually all year.
   But the goal is to have fattened and scrumptious birds ready for "Turkey Day." That process begins the moment the chicks arrive on the farm.
   "In 21 weeks, I can have a turkey at 60 pounds live weight," he said, noting that those huge birds cleaned and oven ready still weigh 45 to 47 pounds. "There are no tricks or hormones, they’re just corn-fed and good genetics over the years."
   But who could use a 45-pound turkey?
   Finding customers for such huge specimens is no problem, said Mr. Lee, whose voice mail explanation to holiday customers spans 2 1-2 minutes. He says the top-10 birds already have been contracted for sale, with No. 10 weighing in at 38 pounds.
   Most of his customers represent repeat business, and not all are local people looking to pick and cook a single bird.
   "Companies like to buy them for their employees, and we are able to freeze 100 at time," he explained. "We have repeat customers from all over the country, some that might have relocated as far away as California who come to this area for (business) meetings.
   "We don’t ship turkeys but some of those people will pick them up, take them home on an airplane and put them in the freezer. A frozen turkey isn’t going to thaw on an airplane ride."
   With about 15 employees at the height of the season, Mr. Lee said his farm can process from live to the freezer about 300 turkeys a day. It could be more, but he doesn’t want the business to grow beyond his control and harm the product by jamming too many birds into his barn.
   He says an easy way to determine if too many are being processed is to peer in to their habitat. If they are missing too many feathers, it’s because of overcrowding, which causes the birds to become aggravated in their quest for additional space and pick at one another.
   The farm is open right into Thanksgiving morning, when only fresh turkeys could be cooked. And, Mr. Lee says, there’s no lack of business.
   "There’s always going to be somebody showing up on Thanksgiving with a bird they say doesn’t look right, smell right or is bruised all over, a turkey they bought elsewhere," he said. "Well, elsewhere is always closed on Thanksgiving.
   "One year, a young couple showed up about 10 o’clock in the morning, not knowing their in-laws were coming over. My mom took one look at their turkey and said, ‘You don’t have time to cook that.’ "
   The young couple lucked out.
   "Our turkey went to their house, and we had spaghetti that day," Mr. Lee recalled with a laugh. "But we did have turkey-shaped cookies."
   This year, Mr. Lee says added fuel, electric and feed costs have resulted in a rise of 11 cents a pound to $2 per pound for fresh birds and $1.80 per pound for fresh frozen turkeys.
   That’s about 50 cents more than the premium brand supermarket price for fresh turkeys and about 30 cents higher than the price for frozen birds purchased from large commercial meat processors.
   It is really worth the extra money? Mr. Lee says the proof is in the eating.
   "Let me put it to you this way," he said. "If you ate at McDonald’s all your life and never tasted filet mignon, you’d think hamburger was great."