Le bon gout de Paris à PDS …

The inspiration for the dinner originated with club co-leader Katherine Levinton, a junior…

By: Pat Tanner
   It’s 6:32 on a recent Sunday evening and the first of 50 guests
arrive at the ad hoc French bistro in the campus center of Princeton Day School.
They — family, friends, faculty and former students — have come for
an authentic six-course French meal prepared and served by students in the school’s
French club under the guidance of Elizabeth Hunt, owner and chef at The Lawrenceville
Inn.
   Eight female servers — dressed in black, each holding
a striped towel over her forearm — form a gauntlet for their guests to
walk through. They have already received instructions from Ms. Hunt ("If you
need to refill a water glass, lift the glass off the table and pour away from
the table") and from the club’s faculty adviser, Laurence Farhat ("Be sure to
ask guests if they have food allergies"). The team has already filled those
water glasses and set out platters of cheese crisps and fresh green salads at
each table for six.
   Earlier, they had transformed the school dining hall bistro-style
with crisp white cloths on round tables for six, placed centerpieces of votive
candles surrounded by pink rose petals, dimmed the lighting, and set the sound
system to play French standards by the likes of Jacques Brel.
   Meanwhile, eight other students are busy in the kitchen, heating
up winter squash soup with chervil, laying out pans of rich potato Dauphinois
to be heated in the oven, and receiving last-minute instructions from Ms. Hunt,
who volunteered to help the girls plan, shop, cook and serve. (The club’s lone
male member was unable to participate due to family commitments.)
   The inspiration for the dinner originated with club co-leader
Katherine Levinton, a junior, who got the idea for a bistro night after noticing
that the Lawrenceville Inn, her favorite restaurant, offered cooking classes.
   "I like to cook," Katherine said, as she and club co-leader
Margaret Curran, a senior, stirred the creamy squash soup. "I often cook together
with Julia (Salem, another club member). We make meals at home for our parents."
   When Katherine e-mailed Elizabeth Hunt with her idea, the
restaurateur not only volunteered for the project, she arranged for Griggstown
Quail Farm to donate chickens for the main course of coq au vin.
   "This taps into both my passions, food and education" explained
Ms. Hunt, who at evening’s end received applause from everyone present, as well
as flowers and a gift basket from appreciative club members.
   The girls themselves received rousing applause from the guests,
each of whom had paid $30 to savor the meal, with proceeds going to Action Against
Hunger, a French agency that combats hunger worldwide. Ms. Farhat, who is a
PDS Upper School French teacher, had worked with Action Against Hunger while
teaching in France. The dinner raised an impressive $1,180 for that organization.
   Ms. Farhat also provided the recipe for the evening’s amuse
bouche of rich cheddar wafers inspired by a favorite recipe at http://orangette.blogspot.com.
The meal ended in true French style with a course of Explorateur cheese (accompanied
by a savory fresh grape tart) on the heels of which came a warm molten chocolate
soufflé.
   Below are two of the recipes from the French club feast that
would make fine additions to holiday parties. The buttery, golden crisps make
addictive accompaniments to cocktails, while the salad from the Savoie region
is appropriately hearty, festive and decadent.
CHEDDAR CRISPS
Laurence Farhat, French Club adviser,
Princeton Day School
   1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
   ¾ pound sharp cheddar cheese, coarsely grated
   1 large egg yolk
   1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
   1 teaspoon dry mustard
   ¾ teaspoon salt
   1 teaspoon black pepper, coarsely cracked in a mortar
and pestle

  1. Combine butter, cheese and egg yolk in the bowl of a food processor and
    blend until smooth. (The mixture may seem thick, lumpy and cement-like at
    first but persevere, stopping the machine and scraping down the sides as needed.
    It will eventually all come together into a smooth, thick paste.)
  2. Add the flour, dry mustard, salt, and pepper and pulse until just combined.
    Transfer the dough to a sheet of wax paper and use the paper to roll the dough
    into a log approximately 1-1/2-inches thick. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours
    (or overnight).
  3. When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut the log into thin rounds
    and place the slices on a baking sheet lined with parchment, spacing them
    about 1/2-inch apart. Bake the crisps until they turn golden, about 10 minutes.
    Remove from oven and let cool. Crisps can be stored in an air-tight container.

   Makes approximately 100 crisps.
SALADE DE SAVOIE
adapted from "Williams Sonoma Savoring France"
by Georgeanne Brennan, Chuck Williams,
Steven Rothfeld and Noel Barnhurst
   ¼ pound thick-cut bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
   3 tablespoons walnut oil
   2 tablespoons raspberry vinegar
   Salt and pepper to taste
   5 cups escarole (frisee, Belgian endive or romaine
may be substituted)¼ pound Beaufort or Gruyere cheese, cubed
   ¼ cup (1 ounce) coarsely chopped walnuts

  1. In a skillet over medium heat fry the bacon pieces until they are golden
    brown and have released much of their fat, 7 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted
    spoon transfer them to a plate lined with paper towels.
  2. Scoop out ½ teaspoon of the fat from the pan and place in the bottom
    of a salad bowl. Add the walnut oil, vinegar, salt and pepper to the salad
    bowl and mix well with a fork. Add the escarole and toss well to coat. Add
    the cheese, walnuts, and bacon, reserving a little of each for garnish. Toss
    again, garnish with the reserved ingredients, and serve immediately.

   Serves 4.