TIMEOFF Bucks County’s restaurant reviewers highlight their favorite dining spots from the past year.
By: Amy Brummer and Richard Burns
From Asian to French, British to Moroccan, the cuisine in Bucks County, Pa.’s best restaurants traverses the globe. TIMEOFF Bucks County’s restaurant reviewers enjoyed global and American fare in established and new eateries in 2006. Here are their 12 favorites:
Lion’s Heart Pub, 1118 Washington Crossing Blvd., Washington Crossing, Pa.; (215) 493-0904 (reviewed March 3).
This cozy pub opened in December 2005, and has hit the ground running with its traditional British fare, handsome décor and sincere hospitality. A Framboise Lambic, which always gets high scores from Wine Spectator, is a beer I have been meaning to try for some time, and this is the first place I had seen it on tap. It exceeded my expectations with its crisp, tart effervescence and dry finish, infused with a deep berry flavor. It paired beautifully with our short rib appetizer, a rich, earthy braise, pooling in the middle of a creamy risotto ($10.50).
The hangar steak ($17.50), perhaps my favorite cut of beef, was cooked to medium-rare perfection and harmonized lusciously with the glossy Bordelaise sauce and ultra-thin and crispy shoestring fries. The ground lamb in the shepherd’s pie ($15.25) was lean and flavorful, complemented by fluffy mashed potatoes and coarsely chopped roasted root vegetables.
Basking in the satisfaction of our meal, we had a chance to say hello to Rick Montemuro, who owns the Lion’s Heart with his wife, Kyle. Mr. Montemuro says that the menu will change to some degree over the seasons, and will always stay fresh with daily specials, to strike a balance between familiarity and the unexpected. Amy Brummer
Slate Bleu, 100 S. Main St., Doylestown, Pa.; (215) 348-0222; www.slatebleu.com (reviewed March 10).
Located in the Doylestown Agricultural Works in the space formerly occupied by Café Arielle, Slate Bleu was opened in November 2005 by Mark and Susan Matyas, and bills itself as a classic European bistro.
A mix of greens, fresh figs, French blue cheese, walnuts, Serrano ham and a balsamic vinaigrette, the salade ardoise ($11) was as satisfying as a salad can be, a perfect upgrade from the standard pear-walnut-blue cheese combination. Roasted red pepper and a raisin bread toast rounded out the flavors. The escargot ($11) is cooked in garlic, parsley, tarragon and chives, and topped with a savory, buttery pastry crust. The bass and pink grapefruit ($26) featured perfectly tender fish in a sauvignon blanc/leek reduction sauce with a few strings of leeks, topped with grapefruit sections and dotted with three tangles of spinach. The filet mignon ($31) was served in a lightened béarnaise sauce, the meat a satisfying, flavorful medium rare.
The Matyas’ goal is an "unpretentious approach to French-centric cuisine." With its sophisticated but comfortable atmosphere, Slate Bleu offers French cuisine that stands on its own it doesn’t need pretension. Jillian Kalonick
Joseph’s Garden Grille, 1033 Bellevue Ave., Langhorne, Pa.; (215) 702-8310 (reviewed March 17).
This restaurant is owned and operated by Joseph Garvey, who also owns the Brick Hotel in Newtown, Pa. Knowing that, I should not have been surprised by the attractive and even elegant presentation of dishes and the quality of the food. The menu, which changes weekly, is limited, but loaded with interesting-sounding dishes. Plum tomato and mozzarella salad ($8) featured roasted peppers and mesclun greens with balsamic vinegar and olive oil that was first-rate. I selected the angel hair crab cakes ($22). The two cakes were served with shrimp mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus and a lobster reduction. The generously sized crab cakes were almost all crabmeat and very succulent, and the lobster reduction was excellent.
I admire the daring of some of the menu items, and the use of reductions and emulsions. The other impressive aspect of the restaurant is the presentation of the various dishes. The restaurant’s plain appearance is somehow warm and welcoming, and the food bold and generally well-prepared. Richard Burns
Augustos, 530 Madison Ave., Warminster, Pa.; (215) 328-0556 (reviewed March 24).
Augusto’s, which has been open since 2003, is located just off the main drag of Street Road in Warminster. The room, which holds 16 tables, is carved into small, intimate sections, and its deep plummy walls, burgundy and purple velvet upholstered chairs, and low lighting give it a cozy, romantic feel.
Empanadas ($7.50) were crisp on the outside and filled with a tantalizing mixture of herbaceous, finely reduced sausage and light creamy cheese that played off a refreshing chop of fresh scallions and a complex chimichurri sauce. But the showstopper of the evening was the langostini (market price), fragrant and beautiful with the deep coral roe still attached. They were succulent and delicate, their aroma and flavor transporting us briefly to a sunny seaside village.
The chef, Augusto Jalon, has an affinity for the treasures of the sea. We chose a blackened mahi-mahi ($33) from the recited specials and the crab cake ($27). The meaty yet tender mahi-mahi came alive with its smoky blackened spices, tempered by a sweet soy glaze and creamy hominy. The crab cakes, pan-seared orbs of luscious crab, held together by a suggestion of egg, were nestled atop a slick of mashed potato so rich and smooth that it was almost a sauce itself.
Throughout the meal our server was attentive, charming and knowledgeable, while the food exceeded our expectations and kept us interested. A.B.
Villa Barolo, 1373 Easton Road, Warrington, Pa.; (215) 491-9370; www.villa-barolo.com (reviewed April 21).
Villa Barolo’s extensive menu features almost any Italian dishes you can think of. The printed specials menu, which changes daily, is graced with innovative dishes, wild game and unusual whole fish filleted tableside. Every dish we tried at Villa Barolo was first-rate. Owner-chef Lo has mastered the art of Italian cooking.
The night we visited there were 23 items all with prices offered on the specials menu alone! For entrees, our guest selected the sea scallops ($18.95), which were sautéed with mushrooms, fresh tomatoes, garlic and sherry wine. My wife, Rose, had a smooth and delicious filet of sea bass ($25.95) sautéed with scampi and sea scallops in a white wine sauce. I tried a dish that used a cooking method I had seen in cookbooks, but never attempted a striped bass cooked in salt ($29.95). Chef Lo brought the fish, which looked like a loaf of salt, tableside, where he un-casted it and then filleted the delicate bass within. It was tender and sweet.
The service was prompt and friendly. Villa Barolo is a "destination restaurant" and well worth the trip. R.B.
Ming’s, 1791 Lincoln Highway, Langhorne, Pa.; (215) 945-9078 (reviewed April 28).
This is the second location for owner Ming Wang, who has run a restaurant of the same name in Hatboro, Pa., for the past seven years. Despite its location on a busy stretch of Lincoln Highway, the interior of the Langhorne location is spare and serene with jade green walls, accented by the chocolate brown of the chairs and gold tones of the artwork.
The steamed dumplings ($8.95) came with two of each kind vegetable, chicken, pork, shrimp and fish. While each had a unique flavor and texture, they were wrapped in a whisper-light skin that imparted a similarly delicate, sophisticated quality. A bowl of Peking noodles ($7.95), prepared with an earthy, black bean sauce rich with garlic, onions, squash and shrimp, arrived with a pair of scissors, as the house made noodles are spectacularly long and can be unwieldy. The noodles are a pleasure, with their toothsome elasticity and mildly nutty flavor. The dry roast chicken ($10.95), which can be prepared with squid, scallop or shrimp ($10.95-$12.95), was fragrant with pan-blackened spices and chilies.
We enthusiastically enjoyed our meals at Ming’s and the restaurant left us with many reasons to return. A.B.
Cross Culture, Peddler’s Village, Routes 202 and 236, Lahaska, Pa.; (215) 794-5555 (reviewed May 5).
The feeling here is cosmopolitan and casual, something of a breath of fresh air from many of the strip mall Indian restaurants that suffer from a generic or under decorated interior. In creating Cross Culture, owner Monty Kainth wanted to fuse Indian cuisine with the contemporary tastes and styles today’s diners are seeking.
Samosas ($4.95) and pakora ($5.75), both fried, were crispy and greaseless. The mild samosas paired beautifully with the two accompanying sauces, a tamarind and a coriander, as well as the creamy yogurt raita. The pakora, golden and crunchy, is a mixed trove of vegetables including balls of spinach, chickpeas and potato pancakes, each spiced with individual seasonings. The tandoori ($21.95) arrived smoking and hissing on a grill plate, creating a moment of excitement and fanfare, heightened by the savory aroma it diffused. One of the plates also held a small dish of lamb saagwala ($19.95), stewed with buttery spinach and spices that were especially complementary to the rice, which was studded with whole pieces of cardamom and cinnamon stick.
We enjoyed two cups of Indian masala tea ($2.25), a strong brew with a little milk that reflected the alternately bold, soothing, spicy flavors and qualities of the cuisine and left us with a feeling of warm satisfaction. A.B.
Concerto Fusion Cuisine, 2 S. Delmorr Ave., Morrisville, Pa.; (215) 428-2899; www.concertofusion.com (reviewed May 12).
If Concerto Fusion Cuisine were a piece of music, it would open with a single, resounding gong. This stylish new restaurant is a showstopper before you even get in the door. Painted bright orange, it sits at the end of a row of simple, low-rise office suites, making it the immediate focal point of this otherwise sleepy commercial strip.
A second location for Man Wong, who also owns Charming Garden in Yardley, Pa., the restaurant is a fully conceived establishment. We chose a steak and scallop dish ($15) and house duck ($15) from the list of chef’s specialties. Served on square plates, our meals were attractively laid out and trimmed with paper-thin slices of cucumber and tomato. The duck, which was perfectly crispy on the outside but a little overcooked, fanned out over mixed vegetables bathed in a mild white sauce. The scallops and steak were simmered in a rich brown sauce, spiked with black pepper, and were deliciously tender and savory.
Crème brulee ($7) was served as a trio of custards one vanilla, one mango and one raspberry all equally delicious. We also dove into a sublime chocolate mousse cake ($7) and felt, as at the end of a good concert, we had finished on a high note. A.B.
Casablanca, 1111 Easton Road, Warrington, Pa.; (215) 343-7715; www.casablancaone.com (reviewed June 30).
In this family-owned and operated Moroccan establishment, the recipes are those of the mother in the family, who still oversees the kitchen. For more than 20 years, albeit not in the same location, Casablanca has been serving the Warrington community and those fortunate enough to hear of it.
Those not familiar with Moroccan food should forgo the à la carte menu and choose one of the seven-course dinners ($27.50 per person). We did and were delighted with the result. We had the chicken cooked with lemon and olives, the chicken with apricots and the rabbit with dates. We could not agree on which was the best but all were unusual and delightful. Next came the lamb as shish kebobs (we could have had beef) with honey and almonds, and with cumin and lemon. Again, each was different and succulent.
We ate a great deal of food over a several-hour period and had both a delicious meal and great fun in doing so. The setting is authentic and appropriate to the culture. The seven-course feast is a great way to learn about this cuisine and a bargain as well. R.B.
Casino Tony Goes, 53 E. Trenton Ave., Morrisville, Pa.,; (215) 428-3480; www.casinotonygoes.com (reviewed July 21).
The Morrisville location of this restaurant is owned by Maryanne Maccaroni Scott, granddaughter of Canio "Tony" Sbarro, who as local legend has it, was so successful in his Trenton luncheonette Casino that he was always going to the store to buy ingredients, earning him the nickname "Tony Goes." Ms. Scott works alongside her own daughter and grandson, and that family pride gives the whole place an extra sparkle.
The hot dogs themselves (they use Dietz & Watson brand) were tasty and the hand cut French fries ($2.50) excellent. Grilled sweet sausage ($7.95) was rich with multi-dimensional flavor. Attractively arranged with roasted hot Italian peppers and garlicky broccoli rabe tangled on top of it, the smoky sausages were offset by a ring of sharp provolone and all the components married together beautifully.
A rich tiramisu ($4.75), dense and fluffy in all the right places, was a perfect pairing with a shot of espresso ($1.50). Raspberry almond torte, layered with moist cake, tart jam and rounded out with almonds, made us swoon. A.B.
The Raven, 385 W. Bridge St., New Hope, Pa.; (215) 862-2081; www.theravenresort.com (reviewed Sept. 22).
A New Hope institution for more than 25 years, and long known as a destination catering to a gay crowd, yet open to all, The Raven has a reputation for fine dining. While both have held true over the decades, the resort has undergone a series of changes with new owners Rand Skolnick and Terrence Meck.
Seated by the bay of windows overlooking the garden, we began our meal with an order of calamari ($12) and the paté maison ($10), one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. In an innovative turn, the crispy squid was tossed with country ham and peas, bringing in smoky and salty flavors that were rounded out with a gentle Parmesan cream. We also enjoyed the well-seasoned, velvety paté. I was set on the seared scallops ($27), and the Thai duck ($26) intrigued us both. The scallops were meaty and sweet, perfectly tender and silken. The duck was a different sensation altogether, with a lacquered chili glaze that fused the flavor into the crisp skin.
So for those who always wondered what goes on behind the fence at this cloistered resort, here’s the scoop there’s a party going on, and everyone’s invited. A.B.
JustEat by BrownGold, Buckingham Green Shopping Center, Route 202, Buckingham, Pa.; (215) 794-1818; www.justeatbybrowngold.com (reviewed Dec. 8).
It can be hard to do as the name suggests, because I want to JustTry everything here. Owned and operated by Marc BrownGold and his wife, Theresa, the restaurant just celebrated four years in business, having kept customers curious and well-sated with a seasonal menu that changes 10 times a year.
The lobster and crab cake ($11) featured a plump, sweet morsel brightened with fresh dill and a creamy mustard sauce. A Piedmontese strip steak ($28) and fleshy, tender bass ($27) were grilled to juicy perfection by the chef, whose open kitchen gives diners an eyeful of the pleasures that await them.
Our meal was leisurely without any significant lags, and the vibe of the restaurant accommodates the pace. For dessert, we decided on a lemon almond tart with fig ice cream ($8) and Theresa’s apple pie with a scoop of vanilla ($8). We were impressed with the quality of the pastries and two well-brewed cups of coffee ($3 each), and the total meal served to reinforce one of the chef’s strongest traits a commitment to innovation and down-to-earth creativity. A.B.