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By Atoinette Buckley
Creole and Cajun cooking originated in New Orleans, but that’s not the only place to find them. Located in Lambertville, New Orleans Cafe II prepares and cooks Creole and Cajun food the way they do in the Big Easy.
Creole cooking is known for its rich sauces, liberal seasoning and prominent use of seafood. Cajun, meanwhile, is heavy on the herbs and spices, and was brought to New Orleans by French-Canadians who settled in the bayous of Louisiana over 250 years ago. Jeff Gilham, head chef of New Orleans Cafe II, says "there’s no need for salt and pepper on the table" at his restaurant, so there isn’t any.
He learned his artistry from chef-owner, Dan Funk, who worked in New Orleans as an apprentice to Paul Prudhomme, the celebrity chef famous for his mastery of New Orleans cuisine. Chef Funk also owns New Orleans Cafe in Eddystone, Pa.
The food at New Orleans Cafe II is definitely jazzier than the understated yet handsome decor. Framed posters of New Orleans street scenes line the walls, which are otherwise decorated in a simple garden motif. Each table is candlelit, and jazz plays in the background, which makes for a cozy, romantic setting. Unfortunately, the TV in the nearby kitchen was turned up so loud the night we visited, we couldn’t help but eavesdrop on the latest episode of Coach.
Our meal began with a basket of wonderful bread, baked on the premises from Chef Prudhomme’s own recipe. Unusually sweet and muffin-like in texture, it was served with a sweet cream butter whipped with garlic and herbs.
Both appetizers were so plentiful and good, we wished they were our entrees. The Sautéed Louisiana Crawfish ($6) was prepared Creole-style, with onions and tomato in a splendidly seasoned cream sauce. Because they’d been shelled, the crawfish were easy to eat. The bread made an excellent sponge for the sauce.
The Bronzed Duck Breast ($7) was more blackened than bronzed, but it was succulent and seasoned with just the right kick. It was served with a tart raspberry brandy sauce that cut through the hot spice of the Cajun delight nicely. One of Chef Funk’s original touches is to accompany many of the dishes on his extensive menu with raspberry sauces and vinaigrettes.
The presentation of the food, like the decor, was understated. A simple dusting of Cajun spice circled the perimeter of the dishes we ordered. The Blackened Crab Cakes ($18), a popular entree at the restaurant, consisted of two large, sloppily stacked cakes smothered with shrimp and sautéed in a chardonnay sauce with onions, tomatoes and scallions.
Unlike some crab cakes, which are stuffed with filler, these breadless crab cakes were packed full of delicious crab, which had been seared and coated with blackened five-pepper spice. The crab was moist, but perhaps a bit too spicy. But the milder, out-of-this-world, Creole-style shrimp sauce made for a wonderful match. The mashed potatoes, too good to be categorized as just a side dish, were as impressive as the main event.
Bananas Foster, a traditional New Orleans dessert, turned out to be one of the highlights of our meal. It’s a sweet, soupy mixture of sliced bananas, brown sugar, butter and banana liqueur. Bourbon-flambéed over ice cream, it was fantastic.
The service was surprisingly good, considering that there was only one server working on a moderately crowded night. It would be wise to call ahead, however, as seating may stop well before the restaurant’s official closing time.
New Orleans Cafe II offers a good selection of low-fat, low-salt entrees to accommodate the health-conscious diner. And the chefs are willing to prepare anything on the menu either milder or spicier, depending on individual preference.

