Try slaw for those slow times

In the summer my real ace-in-the-hole is to make a slaw

By: Faith Bahadurian

"Cole
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   I tend to be very last minute when it comes to preparing vegetables for a meal at home. First I fuss around with the meat or other protein, although I know it is no longer supposed to be the "centerpiece" of the meal. I think about what starch to have, be it grain, legume or tuber (the latter is technically a vegetable, I realize). But then I seem to run out of time when it comes to the vegetable component of the meal. This is the opposite of what I should be doing, as any nutritionist knows.
   In the summer my real ace-in-the-hole is to make a slaw. The term "cole slaw" comes from the Dutch "kool sla," meaning cabbage salad. This dish was likely served hot originally, but once Richard Hellman created bottled mayonnaise in 1903, a cold version quickly became popular. It is a great accompaniment to any grilled meat, especially pork, or dishes with tangy barbecue sauce. A sandwich of pulled pork (or chicken or brisket), slathered with cole slaw, is a wonderful American classic.
   I try to keep pre-shredded green and red cabbages and matchstick carrots in the crisper, not that it takes so long to shred your own, but this is my "no excuses" strategy. Quickly dressed with vinegar, sugar, and, maybe a bit of mayo or vegetable oil, it is ready in minutes. The idea is that the vinegar "cooks" the vegetables, so it’s nice to let it sit a bit if you have time, but I enjoy it just as much made minutes before the meal is served. An Asian slaw can be as simple as Napa cabbage, carrot, rice vinegar and a touch of sugar and sesame oil.
   I tasted several very good slaws at "Taste of the Nation" in April, but the one that stayed in my mind was a fruity version from Bruce Lefebvre, chef at The Frog & The Peach in New Brunswick. His Asian pear and pea shoot slaw with duck confit was a standout, the fruit slaw complementing the rich shredded duck confit mixed in with it. You could make this slaw (recipe below, somewhat adapted for the home cook) and serve it with whatever meat you prefer, so feel free to improvise.
PEA SHOOT SLAW
adapted from Bruce Lefebvre,
The Frog & The Peach
About 6 servings.
   2 firm Asian pears, cored
   A handful of fresh pea shoots or tendrils (or sprouts or shredded Napa cabbage)
   2 teaspoons ancho chili powder, cayenne, and/or Chinese 5-spice powder (any combination, to taste)
   Julienne or shave the Asian pear by hand or on a mandolin. Toss with pea shoots and spices. Toss with vinaigrette, below.
SOY CITRUS VINAIGRETTE
   1 tablespoon mixed grated citrus zests (orange, lemon, lime)
   ½ cup fresh squeezed orange juice
   2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
   2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
   2 tablespoons soy sauce
   ½ shallot, minced
   2 teaspoons ginger, minced
   2 tablespoons champagne vinegar
   ½ teaspoon Coleman’s mustard powder
   1 cup corn oil
   Salt and white pepper to taste
   Zest citrus fruits on a microplane grater, then juice them. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the zest, juice and all other ingredients except the oil. Whisk in oil, drizzling slowly. Season to taste. You will have more than enough dressing for the salad, so add it to the pear and pea shoot mixture gradually, to taste.
MARDI GRAD SLAW
from "The Silver Palate Cookbook,"
Julie Rosso and Sheila Lukins
with Michael McLaughlin, Workman, 1979
6 to 8 servings.
   2 cups shredded red cabbage
   2 cups shredded white cabbage
   2 cups grated peeled carrots
   ½ cup finely minced yellow onion
   1/3 cup red wine vinegar
   ¼ cup granulated sugar
   1 tablespoon prepared Dijon-style mustard
   Salt and freshly ground black pepper
   2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
   1 tablespoon caraway seeds
   Toss both kinds of cabbage, grated carrots and minced onion together in a large bowl. Reserve. In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, sugar, and mustard; season to taste with salt and pepper. Slowly whisk in the oil to form a fairly thick and creamy dressing. Taste and correct seasoning as necessary. Pour half the dressing over the vegetables, sprinkle on caraway seeds, and toss well. Taste, and add additional dressing as you like. Cover and refrigerate for up to 4 hours, return to room temperature before serving.
BACKYARD ASIAN COLE SLAW
from "Martin Yan Quick & Easy,"
Martin Yan, Chronicle Books, 2004
6 servings.
Dressing:
   2/3 cup mayonnaise
   ¼ cup rice vinegar
   2 tablespoons soy sauce
   2 tablespoons sesame oil
   2 tablespoons honey
   1 ½ tablespoons wasabi paste
   1 tablespoon chili garlic sauce
   3 cups shredded Napa cabbage
   1 ½ cups bean sprouts
   ½ cup shredded carrot
   3 ears baby corn, cut diagonally into 1-inch pieces
   2 green onions, thinly sliced
   1/3 pound small, cooked, peeled shrimp
   2 tablespoons chopped toasted walnuts
   For the dressing: Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and whisk to blend evenly. Cover and chill until serving.
   For the slaw: In a large bowl, combine the cabbage, bean sprouts, carrot, baby corn and green onions and toss to mix. Cover and chill until time to serve.
   To serve, pour dressing over salad and toss to coat evenly. Mound the shrimp in the center and sprinkle with the nuts. Serve at once.