The grapes of ectasy

Local winemakers enjoying fall’s dry, sunny weather

By Jessica Ercolino, Staff Writer
   While incredibly dry autumn weather has had some farmers in agony, winemakers across New Jersey were raising a glass to September.
   This September was the third driest since 1895, with less than 2 inches of rain, according to the National Climatic Data Center for New Jersey. The dry weather, coupled with sunny days and cool nights yielded sweet, ripe grapes perfect for producing award-winning wines, according to local winemakers.
   Russ Forman, a builder/contractor who grew up in Cranbury but now lives in Metuchen, is one of seven owners of the Silver Decoy Winery located on Windsor-Perrineville Road. He said this year’s weather conditions were ideal.
   ”You need 180 days of sunshine for good grapes,” he said. “We put an irrigation system in, so if it’s too sunny or too hot, you can always add water; if it’s cloudy, photosynthesis can’t take place.”
   The Silver Decoy harvested 27 tons of grapes this year, 20 percent more than last season, Mr. Forman said. The cranberries that the winery grows, however, did suffer somewhat from the aridity.
   Because most of the wine made at the Silver Decoy ages approximately a year in oak barrels, the essence of the ideal growing weather will not be realized until next year around this time, Mr. Forman said.
   In 2001, during the winery’s first season, too much rain hurt the owners. Mr. Forman said they actually needed canoes to go out and check the grapes after a storm flooded about an acre of the land, and most of the crop was ruined.
   Fortunately for the Silver Decoy’s owners, they have rebounded from their tough first season and the winery currently holds the title of Winery of the Year, awarded by the Garden State Wine Growers Association in 2007.
   Another award-winning wine haven, the Cream Ridge Winery in Upper Freehold has profited from the September dry spell.
   The winery, located on Route 539, harvested 6 tons of grapes from its own vineyard this season. Because of the drought, the plants’ vines go deeper into the ground and produce better grapes, according to Brian Mulligan, who is a winemaker at the Cream Ridge winery.
   The winery held the title of Winery of the Year in 2005, and has won the New Jersey Governor’s Cup six times since its opening in 1988: four for their Ciliegia Amabile cherry wine, and one award each for their plum and cranberry wines. Mr. Mulligan said this year’s white wines should be ready in a few months. Because they make more of their red wines, those are released on more of a yearly basis.