By FAITH BAHADURIAN Special Writer
Goat is a no-show in most American markets, and that’s a shame. When I was collecting recipes to write about last summer’s Indo-American fair, I received a recipe for rogan josh, a type of curry, made with goat, from Jaya Sinha, owner of Ganges Authentic Indian Cuisine in Princeton Junction, a popular restaurant. Her curry (recipe below and pictured here), is delicious, a rich, dark brick-red color, and redolent with spices.
At the time I used more summery recipes, but this one has stayed on my mind, as most Indian restaurants in the area (much less any others) don’t seem to serve goat. Long popular with Greek, Indian and Hispanic populations, goat is fairly lean, so takes well to slow cooking with added moisture. My brother used to make fiery Jamaican goat curry, and in Mexico, goat is slow-cooked in a barbecue pit (barbacoa), often wrapped in banana leaves.
I found lots of information about raising goats, and an extensive online cookbook, at www.boergoats.com, where I learned that “goat called Cabrito is from very young, milk-fed goats between 4 and 8 weeks of age. The meat is tender, juicy and very lean and tasty at this age. Chevon may be goat from 48 to 60 pounds and 6 to 9 months of age. The term Capretto comes from the Italian term ‘kid goat’.” (Like lamb, older goat develops a stronger flavor, not to the taste of today’s consumer.)
Now goat is increasingly entering the mainstream and being raised by niche ranchers, just like Berkshire pigs and heritage turkeys. In a recent New York Times article, Kim Severson wrote about Bill Niman, who has sold the Niman Ranch he founded in the 1970s and gone on to start raising goats for upscale chefs such as Dan Barber, of Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York.
To buy goat, look in a Hispanic market or halal market, such as Kahn Baba at 3201 Route 27, Franklin Park (732-940-2550). The cut-up goat with bones I bought from them recently was mild in flavor and tender after stewing, while the small chops grilled up quickly, just like lamb chops. Next time I’m going to buy a front or hind leg, and get more adventurous. Sources are also listed in the New York Times article referenced above.
ROGAN JOSH
adapted from Jaya Sinha,
Ganges Authentic Indian Cuisine,
www.gangesonline.com
“Rogan Josh is a popular dish from Kashmir, India, and suits the cold climate there. Rogan means any kind of cooking fat and Josh means accelerate or inspire. In Kashmir it is made with goat, but lamb can also be used as substitute. I have taken liberty to make this according to my family’s taste. The recipe below works very well for my family and friends — they love it,” writes Jaya Sinha.
Note: Kasmiri chili powder imparts a rich flavor and red color to this dish. Ask for it in an Indian market, or online under the Spice Appeal label (spelled Kashmiri). I’ve also found Spice Appeal spices at Marshall’s and TJ Maxx. F.B.
3 pounds goat meat, cut into pieces for stewing
½ cup yogurt
Salt, to taste
8 tablespoons vegetable oil
6 green cardamom pods
3 black cardamom pods
4 cloves
1 cinnamon stick
1 tablespoon garlic paste (mash with side of knife)
1 tablespoon ginger paste (mince and smash)
1 tablespoon ghee or butter
1 tablespoon asafoetida water (available in Indian markets, can substitute a pinch of powder)
1 tablespoon chili powder
2 tablespoons cumin powder
2 tablespoons coriander powder
1 tablespoon kasmiri chili powder
2 tablespoons dry ginger powder
2 tablespoons fennel powder
1 teaspoon nutmeg powder
1 tablespoon garam masala powder
1. Wash the meat and pat it dry. Slather with yogurt and salt to taste, cover it and leave it for 30 minutes.
2. In a heavy bottomed pan — heat oil and add green cardamom, black cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon. When the spices sizzle, add meat, stir it well and cover for 2 minutes.
3. After 2 minutes open the cover, sprinkle asafoetida water on meat and keep on stirring, add ginger paste and garlic paste and ghee to this, keep stirring continuously; after 2-3 minutes lower heat and cover to let the meat cook. Keep checking so that it does not burn.
4. When meat looks a little brown and dry, add chili powder, kasmiri chili powder, cumin powder, coriander powder, fennel powder and stir it well. Add 2 cups of water. Cover and simmer slowly until meat is tender and water is mostly, but not all, absorbed (so you end up with some sauce; add additional water if/when needed).
5. Sprinkle nutmeg and garam masala on the meat and cover and cook for 1-2 minutes.
6. The finished dish should look richly reddish in color. Serve with rice or bread.
SOUTHWEST LEG OF GOAT
from the American Meat Goat As sociation cookbook
at www.boergoat.com
1 leg of goat (5 to 7 pounds), boned
1 cup wine or vinegar
1 cup vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic, whole
1 bay leaf, crumbled
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon rosemary
1 teaspoon sage
½ teaspoon crushed pepper
3 large potatoes, quartered
3 large chiles or peppers, sliced
2 garlic cloves, skin removed
Combine vinegar, oil and seasonings and pour over goat meat. Cover and marinate in refrigerator 12 to 24 hours, turning often. Remove goat, strain marinade and reserve. Place potatoes, onions, chiles and garlic in shallow roasting pan and pour ¼ cup marinade over vegetables. Place goat on roasting rack over vegetables. Pour ¼ cup marinade over goat. Roast at 325 degrees for approximately 25 minutes per pound. Baste with ¼ cup marinade every 20-30 minutes before carving. Serve with vegetables. Use drippings for gravy if desired.
Read Faith Bahadurian’s blog at http://www.packetinsider.com/ blog/njspice/.
TASK food drive
at Olive May
Olive May Natural Foods, Princeton’s newest health food market, is continuing its tradition of community outreach by teaming up with the Princeton Chiropractic Wellness Center to collect food for the Trenton Area Soup Kitchen throughout the month of November, up until Thanksgiving Day.
As an added incentive to help the less fortunate, every patron shopping at Olive May who donates $5 or more worth of foodstuffs will be given a gift check worth $100 at The Princeton Chiropractic Wellness Center. By spending a little extra on groceries today, shoppers not only can help a worthwhile cause, they can help to improve their own health and well-being.
Olive May is located at 255 Nassau St. Princeton, 609-924-4993.

