In the kitchen

No ‘End of the Line’ on flavor

By: Pat Tanner – Special Writer
Recently I reported on the documentary "The End of the Line," shown at the Princeton Public Library, about the dwindling stock of ocean fish worldwide, and on the dinner that followed at Mediterra restaurant, which featured sustainable seafood.
Mediterra’s executive chef, Luis Bollo, has kindly shared two recipes that not only utilize conscientiously harvested fish – Alaskan Coho salmon and local fluke – but deliciously showcase his Spanish heritage.
Mr. Bollo, who has been with the Terra Momo Restaurant Group since 2008, was born in San Sebastian, which in recent years became the center of the culinary universe with the rise of Adria Ferran’s groundbreaking El Bulli restaurant. Luis Bollo first came to the U.S. in 1994. In 2003 was named Esquire magazine’s chef of the year for his restaurant, Ibiza, in New Haven, Conn.. Before that he was at Meigas, which was named best new restaurant in New York City in 2000.
The fluke recipe below showcases Catalan picada, the emblematic finishing sauce of that region. It is similar to pesto or romesco in that it incorporates nuts and is made in a mortar or food processor. Picada appears in the earliest of Catalan recipes, dating back at least to the Middle Ages. There are countless variations, but all contain almonds, bread, and some form of liquid.
CROSTINI WITH ALASKAN COHO SALMON CEVICHE Luis Bollo, Executive Chef, Mediterra Restaurant, Prince ton
Note: Contains uncooked fish.
For the ceviche:
1-1/2 pounds Coho salmon, cut into dice
4 ounces diced red onion (about half a medium onion)
1 ounce diced jalapeno pepper (about 2 large), or to taste
8 ounces (1 cup) diced fresh tomato
3/4 cup fresh lime juice
8 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
For the crostini:
Baguettes, enough for 25 slices cut 2-inches thick
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt & pepper to taste
25 sprigs of micro-cilantro for garnish, if desired
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Toss all ceviche ingredients together and set aside. Toast the crostini: Place baguette slices on a baking sheet, brush with the 1 ounce of olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Bake for 7 minutes. Top each crostini with some of the ceviche. Garnish each with one stem of micro-cilantro, if desired. Serve immediately.
Makes 25 crostini.
LOCAL SUSTAINABLE FLUKE WITH CATALAN PICADA Luis Bollo, Executive Chef, Mediterra Restaurant, Prince ton
Note: Recipe contains uncooked egg yolk.
6 6-ounce fluke fillets, skin removed
Salt and white pepper to taste
For the picada:
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
8 1/2-inch-thick slices of baguette
1-1/2 cups toasted almonds
1-1/2 cups toasted pine nuts
2 large garlic cloves
4 tablespoons water
4 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 egg yolk
4 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
4 tablespoons minced fresh basil
Arugula and vegetable salad, to accompany (recipe follows)
1. Make the picada: In a small skillet heat 8 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the baguette slices and cook over high heat, turning, until toasted. Cut into small cubes. Transfer cubes to a food processor and add the almonds, pine nuts, and garlic and pulse until finely chopped. Add remaining 4 tablespoons of olive oil, the water, mayonnaise, and the egg yolk and process to a paste. Add the parsley and basil and pulse to combine.
2. Preheat broiler (to 500 degrees if possible). Coat a broiler pan with olive oil and arrange the fluke fillets on top. Season with salt and pepper and spread 1 tablespoon of picada evenly over the top of each fillet. Broil, not too close to the heat source, for about 8 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through and a golden crust has formed. (Cooking may take longer or shorter, depending on the thickness of the fish).
Serve immediately with arugula salad on the side.
Serves 6.
ARUGULA AND VEGETABLE SALAD Luis Bollo, Executive Chef, Mediterra Restaurant, Prince ton
6 ounces arugula (about 6 cups)
2 ounces shaved or thinly sliced zucchini (about 2 small)
2 ounces shaved fennel (about 1/4 of a bulb)
18 ounces small or cherry tomatoes, such as Sun Gold
6 tablespoons lemon vinaigrette (or Limoncello vinaigrette)
1 pinch sea salt
Combine in a bowl the arugula, zucchini, fennel, and tomatoes. Toss with vinaigrette, sprinkle with salt, and serve immediately.
Serves 6.