By: centraljersey.com
By now, the Princeton area’s most serious and dedicated restaurant patrons know that Christopher Albrecht, executive chef at Eno Terra in Kingston, is an alumnus of Tom Colicchio’s famed Craft restaurant empire. But what they may not know is that before that, he worked side by side under Mr. Colicchio at Danny Meyer’s award-winning Gramercy Tavern. The seeds of professionalism, hospitality, and friendship planted during that time will blossom into an all-star event in our neck of the woods on March 6, at Eno Terra.
That night, a benefit dinner for the Kingston-based Parkinson Alliance, which funds research for Parkinson’s disease, will reunite Albrecht with two of his Gramercy Tavern colleagues who have also become acclaimed chefs. They are: Jonathan Benno, now at the helm of the new Lincoln restaurant at Lincoln Center, and who was previously at Per Se, and Claudia Fleming, named James Beard Pastry Chef of the Year in 2000, and who now owns and operates North Fork Table and Inn in Southold, N.Y., with her husband, Gerry Hayden.
The event is being hosted by restaurateurs Carlo and Raoul Momo, who are donating their restaurant and all the food, and who arranged for wines to be donated by Wines of Chile. The brothers are proud that 100 percent of the proceeds will go directly to Parkinson’s research.
That Sunday, March 6, the three chefs will cook up a farm-to-table dinner in the Eno Terra kitchen, kicking things off with a VIP reception at 3 p.m., segueing into cocktails at 4:30, and finishing with a five-course dinner, with wine pairings, starting at 5. The chefs will circulate throughout all.
In speaking of his colleagues in a press release, Chris Albrecht mentions their perfectionism. "Claudia Fleming, who mentored both Jonathan and me, expected perfection, and we were eager to deliver," he says, adding, "Jon’s virtually incapable of anything less than perfection."
I have to admit I chuckled when I read those words, because perfectionism is the term that came to my mind weeks ago when I requested and received the recipe, below, from Chef Albrecht. The menu for the Parkinson Alliance benefit is still in the planning stages, so he offered a recipe that looks ahead to spring, and specifically to asparagus season. Glancing at it, it appears long and complicated. But that is only because it includes very detailed instructions, plus numerous tips, comments, and asides – the hallmarks of a perfectionist who wants to ensure that the end result is, well, perfect. If you’ve made risotto before, and poached an egg or two, the recipe is really quite easy. If not, you’ll probably never encounter better step-by-step instructions.
Chef Albrecht chose asparagus, in part, because he’s anxious to utilize that grown on Eno Terra’s own Canal Farm, which sits along the Delaware & Raritan Canal in Kingston about a half-mile from the restaurant. "We planted three varieties of asparagus," he says with enthusiasm. The first variety he’ll harvest is called Purple Passion. "I picked a spear last year and what I tasted was incredibly sweet. I ate it right then and there," he recalls. After that he’ll begin harvesting an heirloom variety called Mary Washington and also the famous Rutgers cultivar, Jersey Knight. In total, Chef Albrecht and his crew planted about 300 crowns, or 700 square feet of what this year will be a two-acre plot. I’m sure they’ll all be cooked to perfection.
Eno Terra’s Evening to Benefit the Parkinson Alliance will be held on Sunday, March 6, at Eno Terra Restaurant, 4484 Route 27, Kingston. Cost (including tax and gratuity) for dinner and cocktails is $200. All-inclusive cost for the VIP reception, cocktails, and dinner is $350. For reservations, phone the Parkinson Alliance at 609-688-0870, or Eno Terra at 609-497-1777.
RISOTTO, CANAL FARM HEIR LOOM ASPARAGUS AND POACHED ORGAN IC EGGS Christopher Albrecht, Executive Chef, Terra Momo Restaurant Group
"Speck is a very special cured and smoked boneless ham from the Trentino-Alto Adige region of Italy." – C.A.
For the risotto:
2 quarts chicken, vegetable, or Parmesan stock
2-1/2 cups Italian arborio rice (carnaroli or vialone nano is OK, too)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup leeks, white part only, minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
For the poached eggs:
8 large organic eggs (preferably brown)
1 gallon water in a 5-quart saucepan
1 cup white wine vinegar
2 pounds fresh asparagus
1/4 pound speck or prosciutto, thinly sliced (can be whole pieces or julienne)
4 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, finely grated
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for optional drizzling
2 tablespoons fresh thyme, or lemon thyme, leaves (removed from stems)
Sea salt and fresh ground pepper (optional)
1. Prepare the asparagus, which can either be pan-roasted or grilled. (It can also be cooked in water, but that is my least favorite method.) Either way, trim the asparagus at the point where it snaps naturally. If roasting or grilling, the asparagus can be cooked well ahead and cooled with no special attention; it will maintain its green color. If it is cooked in boiling water, it needs to be immediately and briefly plunged into an ice bath. Once cooked, start at the base and cut half-inch cylinders until all that remains are the tips, about 2" in length. Reserve all.
2. Prepare the risotto: Bring the stock to a simmer. Bring a second pot of water to a simmer and reduce the heat. (This is for the poached eggs.) In a heavy-bottomed pan, over medium heat, cook the minced leeks in the 2 tablespoons of butter and 2 tablespoons olive oil until they are soft and translucent. When tender, add the rice and stir to coat the grains with the oil and butter. Allow the rice to "toast" slightly, then add the white wine and cook until the wine evaporates and the mixture is dry. Begin adding the hot stock to the level of the rice. Bring the heat to high and stir almost constantly. Continue this process until the rice is al dente, about 30 to 40 minutes. When the risotto reaches the desired doneness, reduce the heat to low.
3. Prepare the eggs: Add the vinegar to the pot of simmering water and give the water a stir. As the water is circling, gently crack one egg at a time into the water. The whites will spin around the yolk. If, while you are putting the eggs into the water, the water stops spinning, give it another gentle stir. Note: poaching all eight eggs at once is very challenging (checking for doneness, etc.). I recommend poaching 1 or 2 at a time until you get the hang of it. To check for doneness, use a slotted spoon to gently remove the egg from the almost-simmering liquid. The white should be cooked through and the yolk ideally will not have set yet. Once done, I like to place them on a plate lined with paper towels to absorb any of the cooking liquid.
4. Assemble the dish: Once you have the eggs poached, bring the risotto back to a simmer and add the remaining butter, olive oil, and thyme leaves. This will make the risotto very creamy. Once incorporated, add the cheese and the small cylinders of asparagus.
5. Divide the risotto among 8 bowls. With a spoon, place one poached egg in the center of the risotto, using the back of the spoon to form a nest. Garnish with the asparagus tips and the speck (or prosciutto). I also like fresh black pepper on the egg itself, as well as a little sea salt. The whole dish can be finished with additional good olive oil drizzled on top.
Serves 8.

