Pat Tanner

By: centraljersey.com
Before I turned to food writing full time, I worked for the publications office of the American School of Classical Studies at Athens. Although this school of archaeology is based in Greece, the publications that result from its 100-plus years of excavations emanate from Princeton (originally from offices at the Institute for Advanced Study; currently from a Victorian house on Charlton Street).
When I encountered the following quote in the school’s most recent newsletter, as part of an interview with the new director of publications, Andrew Reinhard, I was intrigued. "I am addicted to grilling," he said, "and am happy to share my recipe for grilled lamb that’s marinated in ouzo with anyone who’s interested."
Well, I was interested – especially since lamb is traditionally served on Easter Sunday in Greece. Mr. Reinhard advises that the trick to his lamb chop recipe "is to leave the lamb alone (i.e., do not over-flip or keep raising the lid to check on it)." He typically serves the chops with grilled vegetables, such as onions, peppers, zucchini, and squash, marinated in oil and vinegar. "Plus," he adds, "I make grilled garlic bread, or serve the chops with a side of orzo pasta or rice."
Mr. Reinhard’s inclusion of ouzo reminded me of Greek cookbook writer Diane Kochilas’ shrimp recipe, below, which happens to be ideal for a related Greek holiday: Clean Monday, a joyous celebration of the first day of Great Lent in the Orthodox Christian religion. It’s also a public holiday and, to celebrate, families go on picnics, fly kites, dance, and drink wine. Now, Lenten dietary laws prohibit eating the meat of red-blooded animals, along with eggs, dairy products, and fish and seafood that have backbones (also, at times throughout Lent, olive oil and wine). Since shrimp do not have backbones, they are allowable.
Clean Monday was celebrated this year on March 7. The simple cake recipe, below, is suitable for the occasion, since it does not contain eggs or dairy. But it’s delicious enough to serve even on Easter. By the way, in Aglaia Kremezi’s wonderful book, "The Foods of Greece," she writes that Clean Monday got its name "because women clean their pots and pans to remove all traces of animal fat."
LAMB CHOPS IN OUZO MARINADE Andrew Reinhard
4 lamb sirloin chops
1 cup ouzo
Coarse Greek sea salt
Coarsely ground black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil (I prefer kalamata olive oil)
1. Marinate the chops: Rub both sides of the chops with salt and pepper. Place two sirloin chops into a gallon-size zipper lock bag. The chops should lie flat and not overlap. Cover the front and back sides of the chops with olive oil. Add one-half cup of ouzo and seal the bag. Repeat for the other two chops. Marinate at room temperature for one hour, flipping the bags once.
2. Grilling (direct heat): Heat your grill to medium-high/high. Remove the chops from the bags. Place the chops on the center of the grill and close the lid. Flip after one minute. Flip after the second minute. Reduce the flame to low. Depending on the thickness of the chops, grill 3 to 5 minutes additionally per side, flipping once. Do NOT keep flipping. Keep the lid closed. The chops should be served rare.
PAN-FRIED SHRIMP WITH LEMON AND OUZO Diane Kochilas, for Food & Wine Magazine
1/2 cup ouzo
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1-1/2 pounds large shrimp in the shell or shelled
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
1. In a large, shallow dish, combine the ouzo, lemon juice and cayenne. Add the shrimp and toss to coat thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1-1/2 hours or for up to 2 hours.
2. Dry the shrimp. In a large skillet, heat 1-1/2 tablespoons of the oil until shimmering. Add half of the shrimp and cook over high heat, stirring, until golden and just cooked, 2 minutes. Season with salt and transfer to a platter. Repeat with the remaining oil and shrimp. Serve hot or warm.
Serves 6.
WALNUT CAKE FOR LENT Aglaia Kremezi, "The Foods of Greece" (Stewart, Tabori & Chang 1999)
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 cup brandy
1 cup fine semolina flour
1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
For the syrup:
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup water
1/2 cup apricot jam (optional)
2 tablespoons water (optional)
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Oil a round (9- or 10-inch cake pan. Dissolve the baking soda in the brandy and set aside. In a large bowl mix all the remaining cake ingredients well, add the brandy mixture, and stir with a wooden spoon. Pour the mixture into the cake pan and bake for about 35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
2. While the cake bakes, make the syrup. Mix the sugar with the water, bring to a boil, and boil for 10 minutes. As soon as the cake is done, remove from the oven and pour the syrup over it. Let it cool.
3. Over very low heat, mix the jam with 2 tablespoons water, stirring constantly. Spoon the jam over the cake, and spread it evenly. Serve in the pan.
Serves 8 to 10.