By: centraljersey.com
I recently organized a luncheon at my department at Princeton University, and, looking for something different from the usual sandwiches, ordered a Mediterranean Buffet.
This room-temperature buffet, prepared by Prospect House, included roasted salmon over lentils, lemon chicken, broccoli rabe, fennel-orange salad with bib lettuce, and – the surprise hit of the meal – Moroccan Couscous Salad, with chickpeas, almonds, and raisins.
It was so good that I spirited a serving home that evening, and took a closer look as I enjoyed every last grain of couscous. Surely I spied flecks of orange zest and specks of cinnamon? And what was that green? There was no help for me but to ask for the recipe, which Executive Chef Brian Driscoll graciously supplied.
Couscous has an interesting history. It was originally made of millet or other grains, but in the last century or so, more often from semolina wheat. It is believed to have originated in the 9th century, and made its way from North Africa to southern areas of Europe and parts of the Middle East. When made traditionally, it is very labor-intensive, and has a lower glycemic index than pasta. Ideally, couscous is steamed, but most of the couscous sold in markets today is pre-steamed, and fluffs up almost instantly in hot water.
That salad reminded me of the frozen quinoa with cubes of zucchini and sweet potato from Trader Joe’s I’ve been enjoying lately, heated up as a side dish – it kills two birds with one stone: a starch and a vegetable. So I turned to my trusty "consultant," Mark Bittman, and found a recipe for a sweet potato and quinoa salad that I can also see becoming a regular in my kitchen.
The last recipe this week, Grain-Filled Onions, is a more labor-intensive main dish, but I suspect one could prepare the cored onions and the barley filling the day before, or earlier the same day, and assemble and bake the dish closer to mealtime. Cooking vegetarian can be time-consuming, but when you’re willing to spend some time putting together a delicious vegetarian entree, give this a try. The author suggests serving it with her Potato-Fennel Stew with Mixed Beans and Tofu, but I’m convinced that that also fairly involved recipe would push most of us over the edge. So try serving this with sauteed kale or a substantial salad, instead.
MOROCCAN COUSCOUS CHICKPEA SALAD Adapted from Brian Driscoll, Prospect House (operated by Restaurant Associates) 4 servings.
Note: I highly recommend the white balsamic vinegar, but don’t substitute regular balsamic. I’d use champagne or white wine vinegar, instead. F.B.
1 box Near East couscous (10 ounces)
2 cups hot water
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup orange juice
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
1/4 cup + 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/3 cup raisins plumped in a little hot water
1/3 cup cooked chickpeas (rinse if using canned)
1/3 cup skin-on whole roasted almonds
1/4 cup chopped flat leaf parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
Place couscous in a bowl, and add the 1 tablespoon olive oil, and the hot water. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit for 5 minutes. For dressing, in a small bowl combine sugar, vinegar, juice, zest, oil, and cinnamon; whisk until blended. Combine raisins, chickpeas, almonds and dressing with couscous and finish with parsley, and salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature.
SWEET POTATO AND QUINOA SALAD Adapted from "How To Cook Everything Vegetarian," Mark Bittman, Wiley (2007) 4-6 servings.
2-1/2 cups cooked quinoa (1 cup raw cooked 20 mins.)
1 large or 2 medium sweet potatoes (about 1 pound)
Salt
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced
1/4 cup minced red onion or shallot
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons, balsamic, sherry, or red wine vinegar
1/2 cup minced fresh chives or parsley
Peel sweet potato and dice into 1/2-inch or smaller pieces. Cook in boiling salted water to cover until tender about 15 minutes; drain well.
Toss together potato, quinoa, bell pepper, and onion; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Whisk the oil and vinegar together and toss the salad with about half of this mixture, add all or some of the rest to taste. Taste and adjust seasoning; garnish with chives and serve.
GRAIN-FILLED ONIONS Adapted from "The Essential Vegetarian Cookbook," Diana Shaw, Potter (1997) 4 Servings.
4 large Vidalia or Spanish onions
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 cup barley
1/4 cup currants
1/2 cup apricot preserves
Peel onions and cut out center or each, leaving a shell 1 or 3 layers thick. Use sharp knife or melon baller, being sure not to puncture shells. Coarsely chop the onion from the centers. Place shells in deep saucepan standing up, add cold water to cover, and simmer on medium-high until soft but not mushy, 20-30 minutes. Transfer to plate with slotted spoon, then pour the cooking liquid into a 4-cup measuring cup.
Heat oil in heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add chopped onion, carrots, cumin, cinnamon, and coriander, reduce heat to medium-low and cook about 7 minutes Add barley and currants, stirring to coat with spices. Add 3 cups of reserved onion water, adding some fresh water if necessary. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook until all water is absorbed, about 50 minutes.
Heat oven to 400 degrees. Fluff barley with a fork, and fill onion shells with it. Place onions in shallow baking dish with an inch of water, cover tightly with foil, and bake about 20 minutes (bottoms will start to caramelize.)
Heat or microwave preserves until they liquefy. Remove foil from onions and brush them with the preserves. Return to oven, uncovered, for 10 more minutes.
Read Faith Bahadurian’s blog at www.packetinsider.com/ blog/njspice (also www.twitter.com/njspice).

