A magical time of year for the Angelakis family, the owners of Olives on Witherspoon Street
By Victoria Hurley-Schubert Staff Writer
Even after 20 years in the food business, Easter is a magical time of year for the Angelakis family, the owners of Olives on Witherspoon Street.
From tsougrisma, an egg game, to special sweet Easter bread, the Greek family gathers together for a traditional holiday meal — after helping many customers plan their meals with traditional Greek flair.
The highlight of the springtime meal is the traditional sweet Easter bread called tsoureki that has a red egg nestled in the center. The bread itself is sweet and spiced with mahlepi, a seasoning made from the center of a cherry pit that is traditional in Greek cuisine. “There is always a very large (tsoureki) on the table,” said Caterina Liviakis, a cousin who is the catering manager at Olives. “Eggs are a symbol of life and renewal, and they are always dyed red because it symbolizes the blood of Christ.”
On the Christian calendar, Easter Sunday — “Pascha” — marks the resurrection of Jesus Christ after he died on the cross on Good Friday.
Tsoureki is a sweeter version of challah, a traditional egg bread in the Jewish faith and is eaten for dessert. The eggs are dyed with beet juice or red dye; a bowl of red eggs usually sit on the dinner table.
The tsoureki recipe has been handed down in the Angelakis family, which is from Crete, where their grandmother was the village baker, and is still baked by family members.
Olives makes the breads at its other store, Colonial Farms in Washington’s Crossing. “My aunt — Adam’s mom (Olives owner Adam Angelakis) — is there and she makes the breads every year,” said Ms. Liviakis. “Everything we do on this day is passed on; it’s important to keep the traditions alive.”
Six Angelakis family members work at Olives.
Another highlight for many is the lamb, which is roasted whole on a spit in the backyard of one of the Angelakis family members. As it rotates, it is basted with olive oil, lemon, oregano and garlic, using a thyme sprig as a brush. “My favorite part of eating the lamb is when it’s cooking; you all stand around talking and picking the best parts from the lamb as it’s roasting,” Ms. Liviakis said.
At Olives, the lamb is roasted in the oven with potatoes and is the top seller during Easter week, said Mr. Angelakis. This year, the chefs will use 12 whole lambs to meet customers needs.
The Easter menu has been offered for 20 years at Colonial Farms and since 1996 at Olives. “Every year we’re selling more and more,” he said.
Other traditional foods like spanakopita, Greek Salad, tzatziki and horiatiko, a sourdough-like bread, are served for dinner. Spanakopita is a dish made with phyllo dough, spinach and feta that is eaten all year long and served daily in the store. Greek salad is made with cucumbers, tomatoes, red onion, olives, and feta, and dressed with olive oil. Tzatziki is a mild cucumber- and mint- based sauce the Greeks use for everything. “It’s our ketchup; we put it on everything,” said Ms. Liviakis. “I put a little lemon zest on it; it’s so fresh and delicious.”
The foods served at Olives reflect the traditional cooking style of Crete.
“Even though Greece is such a small country, the cuisine is different in the different areas,” she said. “Ours (cuisine in Crete) is a little fresher. You’ll find a lot of cinnamon in northern Greece. We don’t really do that because in northern Greece it can get a little cold sometimes, so I think they need warmer flavors; we have more fresh flavors.”
Orthodox Christians, such as the Greek and Russian churches, celebrate Easter according to a formula based on the old Julian calendar, which is usually a different Sunday from the one other Christians celebrate, based on the Gregorian calendar. This year Easter falls on the same Sunday for all.
In Greece, Easter is the most important holiday, said Adam Angelakis, who owns Olives with his father.
For Orthodox Christians, Lent begins two days’ earlier than for other Christians, and mandates a strict fast from meat and dairy products.
“Some people fast from meat and dairy all 40 days; there are very special fasting days, clearly marked on the church calendar, but like Catholics, we don’t eat meat on Fridays,” said Ms. Liviakis.
The Eastern Orthodox Church and the Roman Catholic Church were once one church, but East and West separated in the 11th century over doctrinal and jurisdictional issues.
The fast ends — and the feast begins — early on Easter Sunday morning, when the church proclaims, Christos anesti! (Christ is risen!), and the believers respond, Alithos anesti! (Truly He is risen!).
Olives, 22 Witherspoon St., Princeton. 609-921-1569. www.olivesprinceton.com.