IN THE KITCHEN: Foods symbolize holiday’s traditions

By pat Tanner, Special Writer
   When my editor asked me to devote this column to Rosh Hashana, the Jewish new year celebration that begins at sundown on Sunday, Sept. 16, my thoughts turned to the current turmoil in Syria. There are very few Jews left in Syria itself – some estimates are as low as 22, all residing in Damascus. That’s because, in part, a large percentage of Syrian Jews emigrated to the U.S. during the first half of the 20th century. Brooklyn has the largest Syrian-Jewish community, estimated to comprise 75,000 people, many with ties to Aleppo.
   Like its counterparts worldwide, Syrian Jewish tradition employs symbolic foods during this holiday, which marks the beginning of the High Holy Days. We’re most familiar with Ashkenazi traditions such as a loaf of challah shaped this time of year into a ring to represent continuity, and apples dipped in honey in hopes for a sweet year ahead.
   The Syrian take on the latter is to dip apples into sugar, and they also serve dates, pomegranates, and other fruit. Since Rosh Hashana literally means “head of the year,” some Syrian Jews serve meat from the lamb’s head (or more often these days, just the tongue), while others use fish for this same purpose.
   One of the most delightful facts I uncovered while researching Syrian Jewish traditions is that, like American Southerners, Syrians also eat black-eyed peas at the New Year – and for the same symbolic reason: to denote abundance or, more specifically, increasing one’s merits.
   I was also pleased to find that leeks and Swiss chard – two vegetables abundant this time of year – are widely employed. Both the Arabic and Hebrew words for “leek” and “Swiss chard” are similar, and since both words resemble the Hebrew for “to cut off” and “to remove or throw out,” the vegetables symbolize getting rid of enemies from within and without. Which is tragically appropriate for Syria in 2012.
   Below are recipes for a Syrian Rosh Hashana. According to Joan Nathan, the black-eyed pea stew serves eight, but that seems high to me for a dish containing only a half pound of meat. Both it and the Swiss chard stew are terrific served over rice.
LEEK FRITTERS (EJJEH)
www.thekosherfoodies.com
(slightly adapted)
   2 to 3 large leeks, or 4 to 5 small leeks, washed well and chopped
   ½ cup breadcrumbs or matzo meal
   2 eggs
   Egg white from 1 egg, optional
   Salt and pepper
   Vegetable oil, for frying
Prepare oil for frying: pour about ½ inch of oil into a high-walled pan. Place on burner over medium heat.
   Combine leeks, eggs, and breadcrumbs. Check consistency. If it’s too dry, add the egg white. If too wet, add more breadcrumbs. The batter should be loose but be able to come together into a ball if squeezed. Add salt and pepper.
   Using a tablespoon measure, scoop out batter into balls.
   Test the frying oil with a tiny amount of batter. Make sure it sizzles but doesn’t burn. Line a plate or tray with paper towels to drain the patties after frying.
   Using a slotted spoon, drop a few of the tablespoons of batter, one at a time, into the oil, flattening into patties as you drop them. (Don’t overcrowd, because you don’t want the temperature to drop too much, which will make the patties soggy.)
   After one minute, they should be brown. Flip the patties. Fry on the other side for a minute. Remove from oil with slotted spoon and place on draining plate. Repeat until all are fried. Sprinkle with salt when still warm.
SYRIAN VEAL
AND BLACK-EYED PEAS
STEW (LUBIJEH)
Jewish Cooking in America,
Joan Nathan (1994)
   1 onion, chopped
   2 cloves garlic, minced
   2 tablespoons vegetable oil
   ½ pound veal stew meat, cut into 1-inch cubes
   2 cups water
   1 cup dried black-eyed peas, soaked overnight in water to cover
   1 teaspoon salt
   1/8 teaspoon pepper
   1 teaspoon ground allspice
   ½ teaspoon cinnamon
   2 tablespoons tomato paste
In a heavy skillet sauté the onions and garlic lightly in the oil. Add the cubed veal and brown briefly. Add 1½ cups of the water, cover, and simmer slowly for 20 minutes.
   Meanwhile, drain and simmer the black-eyed peas in water to cover for 20 minutes. Drain and add the peas, salt, pepper, spices, tomato paste, and the remaining ½ cup water to the veal mixture.
   Cover and cook over low heat for 1 hour or until the peas and veal are tender. If the stew dries out, add a little more water.
SYRIAN SWISS CHARD STEW
www.culinarykosher.com
(posted by rm and slightly adapted)
   1 onion, chopped
   2 cloves garlic, chopped
   2 tablespoons vegetable oil
   3 cups cleaned and chopped Swiss chard leaves and stems
   1 pound ground beef
   ½ teaspoon ground allspice
   ½ teaspoon cinnamon
   ½ teaspoon salt, or to taste
   ½ cup water
   Heat vegetable oil in a large pan and add onion and garlic. When the onions are translucent but now brown, add the Swiss chard. Cook, stirring frequently, until chard is wilted and tender (at least 10 minutes).
   Remove vegetable mixture from the pan and add the ground beef, stirring and breaking up pieces until browned. Pour off any excess oil and add the cinnamon, allspice, and salt to the pan. Add the vegetable mixture back in and stir well.
   Add the ½ cup water and simmer over very low heat for 15 to 20 minutes.
Pat Tanner blogs at www.dinewithpat.com