The Lambertville Station

If presentation can make up for less-than-perfect food, it does so at this popular tourist spot. But even without perfection, it was memorable. The Continental menu has stylish touches and some rare finds.

By: Antoinette Buckley

   LAMBERTVILLE — Five years ago was my last visit to Lambertville’s most well-known restaurant, The Lambertville Station. I was there for a small luncheon party and every time I’ve thought about the event since then, it is the mesclun green salad with raspberry vinaigrette that sticks out in my mind.
   Admittedly, this is a strange attachment I have to probably the least culinary thing on the menu. My only explanation, besides the fact that it was indeed delicious, is perhaps it was around the time when raspberry vinaigrette was really making its mark and it was still so fresh to me.
   When I returned five years later in "restaurant review" mode, that salad was no longer part of the menu. A delicate spinach salad ($3.25) dressed with sherry vinaigrette was made contemporary by toasted pecans, grapes and crumbled Gorgonzola cheese. It was a close second to the raspberry vinaigrette salad. But, it was the homemade coconut bread (offered at the beginning of the meal), with its sweet nature and mere suggestion of coconut that could make a lasting impression. Only time will tell.
   The menu is Continental with stylish touches and some rare finds. The two appetizers we had were both shining stars in their own way. The restaurant’s signature Alligator Chili ($5.95) was made with alligator tail meat. Beans, smoked cheddar cheese, strips of tortilla chips and squiggles of sour cream around the rim of a chic black bowl made up the rest of this outstanding chili.
   The Mushroom Lasagna ($8.95) offered a big surprise when it arrived at the table layered with fried wonton sheets instead of the traditional lasagna noodles. Sautéed wild mushrooms topped with a stingy amount of goat cheese, were stuffed between two crisp wontons. Aged balsamic syrup that was drizzled over the top provided the most flavor in the dish and really needed to get mixed up with the mushrooms to make them shine. While it couldn’t really live up to a true lasagna, I enjoyed its creative spirit.
   Maybe I’ve been spoiled, but the Rack of New Zealand Lamb ($20.95) couldn’t compare to others I’ve had. The lamb itself was good, but lacked that melt-in-your-mouth quality and sufficient seasoning. The roasted garlic and goat cheese crust that the menu description promised was anti-climactic. Although the roasted garlic flavor was there, the meager dabs of goat cheese seemed like a pointless afterthought. A side medley of broccoli, cauliflower and shredded carrots was overcooked. But the accompanying white bean ragout that incorporated chunks of bacon was firm in flavor, making it my favorite part of the dish.
   The surf and turf entrée featured a baked cold water Maine lobster tail that actually lived up to what a lobster should be. It was exceptionally succulent, and the glorious champagne butter for dipping accented its wonderful flavor. The counterpart to the meal was a 10 oz. filet mignon that was more impressive to the eye with its 2-inch thickness than to the taste buds. Although the meat’s charred exterior enclosed a juicy interior, its flavor was rather unexciting, making a near $37 price tag hard to swallow. Mashed potatoes with skins was an appropriate and enjoyable side.
   For deserts, the Homemade Grand Marnier Sabayon ($4.25) was a joy to eat. A light, creamy custard filled a crepe that was sprinkled with fresh blueberries. The Fudge Cake ($4.50) was good, but didn’t win my heart the way the Sabayon did. The restaurant’s signature Truffle ($4.50) dessert, however, may be something to check out in the future.
   If presentation could make up for less than perfect food, it did so here. Lambertville Station knows how to make a good show of its food. Besides the black appetizer plates that lent themselves to creative accents using condiments, both entrees were presented on festively decorated, Millennium plates.
   For sure, the plates inspire conversation, as does the layout of the restaurant, if you take the time to meander through its many nooks and crannies. The décor in the Victorian Lounge where we sat was rather nondescript and had a country club feel, sporting dark wood furniture and trim. But taking a walk through the many rooms that make up the restaurant revealed decorative touches that were reminiscent of an old railway station. The Platform is the dining room that most resembles a railway car and overlooks railroad tracks outside.
   The lower level houses a bar decorated with photographs of jazz musicians and is commonly referred to as The Club. The restaurant certainly harnesses a lot of charm with its many decorative faces.
   The Lambertville Station is a popular spot for tourists, a natural progression since it is also an inn. But the restaurant is accommodating to its regulars. On Monday nights, for example, a wine appreciation list offers a good selection of wine taken from the regular wine list and prices them at a discount. Our bottle of Clos LaChance Merlot, for example, was normally $28. We paid $18. It’s a good incentive to get a bottle of wine on an ordinary Monday night.
   Even though the meal wasn’t perfect, I must say it was memorable, right down to our delightful server delivering beyond adequate service.