Café Lulu’s

Al fresco or indoors, an assortment of Middle Eastern selections and vegetarian entrées dot the menu at this New Hope establishment.

By: Lari Robling

   Have you ever had one of those nightmares that has you running around frantically looking for the room where your important test is being administered? Then you discover you forgot to put clothes on. How about this one: You’re a food critic and your editor’s aunt recommends a lovely little place to dine and your experience is, say, less than stellar?
   Guess I’m not in Kansas, Auntie Em. This was no dream, although at least I can say I was fully dressed. Unfortunately, being fully clothed was a disadvantage because Café Lulu’s hadn’t turned on the air-conditioning — despite being in the middle of a heat wave and humidity that would melt a munchkin like a wicked witch.
   Granted, New Hope is not exactly the Yellow Brick Road, and maybe I am a bit of a stick-in-the-mud, but I find being served by someone with a nail in their nose a bit unappetizing. Even my spouse and generally enthusiastic co-taster, Bruno, was put off by the view of the cook in a sleeveless undershirt sweating profusely. Bruno, ever the gentleman, was kind enough to keep this observation to himself until the next day.
   Café Lulu’s is a small eatery on the main drag in New Hope. Weather permitting, the courtyard al fresco dining offers a break from shopping and a good view of the town’s Oz-like cast of characters. Lulu’s menu holds a lot of promise — it’s an eclectic mix of salads, sandwiches and munchables. The salads can be ordered with or without grilled chicken to make them more substantial. Vegetarians have an abundance of choices, from a portabella sandwich ($7.50) to a Palermo Fresco sandwich of sliced tomato, fresh mozzarella, fresh basil and balsamic vinaigrette on a hoagie roll ($7.50). The cold marinated eggplant, sun-dried peaches, apricots, raisins, roasted red peppers, garlic, basil and olive oil on a roll ($6.95) and the Middle Eastern combo with hummus, falafel, baba ghanoush, couscous and tabbouleh ($10.95) were also good to see on the menu.
   On my visit, however, I found enough mistakes to make me wonder if anyone was paying attention to the man behind the curtain. In other words, who’s in charge here?
   For wing lovers, there are two choices: Dave’s hot or Charlie’s sweet wings ($6.95 for 12). We thought we ordered the hot and spicy but were served, instead, the sweet version. The wings were cheerfully sent back and the waitress corrected the order, but this threw off the timing of the entrées, which arrived with the replacement appetizer. The mistake did allow me to try both wing versions — neither were winners. The sweet version had an overwhelming taste of peanut butter. I enjoyed the crisp texture of the spicy wings but would have liked a little more spice. Both were served with celery sticks and a creamy dressing.
   I opted for the buffalo burger ($9.95). I love this low-fat beef alternative. In fact, I think it tastes better. My burger was cooked as ordered and the portabella sauce was wonderful. But the Provolone cheese missed the mark and didn’t have the characteristic sharpness I expected. I’m not certain why the Cajun fries were billed as Cajun, as there was no overt seasoning. They were served less than piping hot, a cardinal fry sin in my book.
   Bruno ordered Lily’s salad. This mix of greens, Cheddar and mozzarella cheese, olives, tomato, cucumber, onion and grilled chicken held promise, but ultimately disappointed because the tomato-basil vinaigrette was much too sweet. A good dressing should be like a percussion section in an orchestra. You don’t want to be too aware that it’s there and it should never detract from the ingredients.
   I think this is what keeps Lulu’s from going over the rainbow. There is a lack of attention to detail from the service to the food. Certainly, the menu could boast a real attraction for locals and tourists. There are plenty of choices for the family with kids in tow, perhaps a hungry biker or a vegetarian. Someone with a critical eye needs to give this young and pleasant staff some training and, perhaps, some rules about grooming. The kitchen needs to tweak its recipes and get rid of anything that has disparate elements. I’d rather see a menu with fewer choices and more predictable quality.
   We would have ordered dessert, but most of the choices weren’t available. Instead, we brought home an oversized chocolate chip muffin ($2.50) that was very much like a cupcake and passed for dessert. It made me think breakfast at Lulu’s might be a good idea. The breakfast menu ranges from Huevos Rancheros ($6.50) to an assortment of pancakes ($4.95-full stack), bagels and muffins.
   Co-owners Dave Anderson and Charlie Zebib took over the restaurant last year. They both had worked in the former establishment, Richard’s Patio. They are working to expand into more of a dinner menu and acquire a liquor license. Mr. Zebib is from Israel, and most of the Middle Eastern dishes are his mother’s specialties. I wish I’d known that before I ordered. I’ll bet this is where Lulu’s can really shine. They should market this aspect.
   Like Dorothy, Lulu has the power to fulfill a dream. Café Lulu’s could become a first-class destination. Someone just has to have the brains, heart and courage to pull it all together.
For directions to Café Lulu’s, click here.