Anton’s at the Swan

This captivating Lambertville restaurant maintains its reputation for fine wines and highly pleasing, seasonal food.

By: Pat Tanner

   Let me say this right off the bat: Even if the food at Anton’s at the Swan weren’t as good as it is, I would go back just to bask in the setting.
   Occupying two floors of what had once been a small hotel, Anton’s has been labeled "romantic," but it goes beyond that. This antique charmer is downright captivating even for the non-romantically inclined. Its original fittings, like the ornately carved Victorian hutch that runs the length and height of one long wall in the street-level dining room, haven’t been tampered with or prettified. The stairs leading to two intimate and attractive upstairs dining rooms list to one side, and doorjambs appear not to have been plumb in decades.
   Downstairs the old plaster ceiling is cracked, but suspended from it is a gorgeous old wrought iron chandelier, its original gas fittings converted to electricity. Plain white walls are virtually covered with paintings of Lambertville, each glowing from individual lighting, which provides a soft glimmer to the room. Among the paintings are one by the current bartender and one by a former busboy who is now the proprietor of an art gallery in town, all of which serve as a delightful backdrop to the modern American cooking. Chef-owner Chris Connors took over the reins at Anton’s in 1999 and purchased it from Anton Dodel in September 2001.
   A veteran of such respected restaurants as the Frenchtown Inn and Doris & Ed’s in Highlands, Mr. Connors tweaks his seasonal menus monthly, based on what is freshest and best at the market. So an appetizer of sautéed asparagus ($9) might come on a crisp polenta cake one week and risotto drizzled with white truffle oil the next. We experienced the latter, which stands out for its tender asparagus tips, pan-roasted until almost black and emitting a powerful asparagus essence but without the taste of char.
   Mr. Connors’ menu is short but covers all the bases in an exceedingly smart way. Not counting specials, it consists entirely of four appetizers, four salads and five entrées — each and every one inviting. Caesar salad ($8) is classic and shines with top-grade ingredients in just the right proportions. A more modern salad, on its way to becoming a classic on many menus, is one of arugula, roasted beets and goat cheese ($8). This particular version got one beet-averse companion to actually enjoy that root vegetable for the first time. An appetizer of grilled shrimp ($11) is succulent, but a couple of the crustaceans seem less than fresh and the dish is weighed down by the accompanying coconut rice and spicy peanut sauce. In a larger portion, this might make a more appropriate main dish.
   Entrées on the spring menu include tuna (cooked rare) with carrot-ginger salad and wasabi oil ($28) and filet of beef with blue cheese and fingerling potatoes ($30). Normally I’d go for either of these in a heartbeat but was swayed, in the final analysis, by roasted duck breast with spaetzle ($26). I enjoyed the generous portion of boneless, juicy medallions — layer of fat intact — but marveled at the spaetzle. Often these are nothing more than lumps of boiled starch, tasteless sponges for soaking up meat juices like the duck stock and red-wine reduction of this dish. Mr. Connors, however, goes one step further by sautéing the spaetzle until they are crisp, buttery and fabulous even on their own. Accompanying this and some other entrées are plain, perfectly steamed broccoli florets.
   Rack of lamb ($30) is also simple but succulent, finished with an expert red-wine sauce and some tasty, if soupy, garlic mashed potatoes. Garlic scalloped potatoes are flawless, though. They accompanied a special of tenderloin of Montana buffalo ($32), as flavorful as any cut of beef but leaner and with a hint of gaminess. Sugar snap peas, garden fresh, rounded out the plate nicely. Grilled swordfish ($27) is deliciously paired with a sprightly ratatouille of tiny, diced spring vegetables and a summer-scented basil pesto.
   The wine list at Anton’s covers the expected territory in terms of geography and price. Lots of choices hover in the $30 range (Pascal Jolivet Sancerre for $32 comes to mind), but there is also a Barolo Riserva (Marchesi di Barolo 1990) for $100. Wines by the glass, 16 in all, are more than reasonable, and we enjoyed three: Tarapaca "Reserva" Merlot ($5), Los Vascos Cabernet ($5) and Beringer Sauvignon Blanc ($6).
   Service for the most part is polished — we had a seasoned pro pulling main duty — but dishes were delivered by a younger crew, who needed to ask who-gets-what each time. A quibble, I realize, but it does impact the flow of table talk.
   Chef Connors doesn’t slack off when it comes to desserts ($8 each). Forks were flying as each one of us, in turn, declared his or hers the best. Brioche bread pudding with fresh cherries and mango sauce was an early favorite, but the perfect ripeness of strawberries in a big bowl of "shortcake" nosed it out, especially since the cake part is really two soft, lemon-scented cookie discs. Blueberry tart with blueberry compote and a dollop of supremely fresh whipped cream was deemed "absolutely delicious," but this from a not impartial blueberry fanatic. Personally, I thought my demure-sounding chocolate roulade was the clear winner. Flawless sponge cake is rolled around an airy-yet-lush filling that exudes chocolate flavor and is perfectly enhanced by finely ground hazelnuts.
   Highly pleasing food, appealing wines, a charming and unique setting. No wonder Saturday-night reservations go early.
Pat Tanner’s reviews can be heard on Dining Today, Sat. 9-10 a.m., on MoneyTalk AM 1350.
For directions to Anton’s at the Swan, click here.