Méhék

This Princeton addition features a diverse menu that stylishly mixes traditional and modern North Indian cuisine.

By: Antoinette Buckley

   Méhék is the youngest Indian restaurant in downtown Princeton, taking over the space of the former Sally Lunn’s teahouse. Before walking into Méhék, take a minute to unclutter your mind. Leave your cares, expectations and schedule outside the door, and allow Méhék to wash over you. Your senses are sure to awake from slumber.
   Owners Sunita Midha and Seema Chopra, both new to the restaurant business, have thoughtfully created a restaurant specializing in North Indian cuisine and have accented it with contemporary touches. Upon entering Méhék, exotic fragrances typical of an Indian restaurant greet you and then your eye catches the beautiful and calming way the intimate dining room is decorated. Cloth wall hangings, handmade in India, are richly colored and embellished with threadwork and inlaid pieces of mirror. More of the same cloth artwork elegantly dresses up every table. Wood-framed wall mirrors are charming and sheer off-white curtains are breezy against mint-green walls. While I can appreciate the effort to support the artwork of India (the art is all for sale), the little card advertisements that dangle from the lovely wall hangings detract from such an exquisite, yet simple, decor. There is plenty of opportunity to purchase similar items downstairs in the little artisan shop with a take-out counter.
   Just seven months old, the slightly urban-esque Méhék is catching on. If you do not have a reservation on a weekend, it is likely that you will have to wait for a table. If you are not fortunate enough to have secured the three chairs that just fit in the tiny space at the entrance that has, by default, become a waiting area, your party will have to stand between the entry door and the door to the bathroom.
   The table settings are sleek with weighty silverware bordering modern square white plates. A basket of papadum (the Indian equivalent of chips) and three sauces, ranging from mild to fiery, are brought to the table to munch on as you look over or perhaps study a menu that has been constructed with heart. Open the small laminated book, bound together by a simple red ribbon, and read cultural facts about India as well as the philosophy behind the Indian kitchen.
   The food of India, mimicking the country itself, is so diverse. As the menu mentions, the unifying element and that which makes it stand apart from other cuisines is the intense use of herbs and spices. It is the art of balancing such seasonings that makes that which is seasoned, peak. Chef Piara Singh unleashes that concept in the food of Méhék, a word that fittingly means "aroma." In addition to getting the chemistry right, Mr. Singh has the essentials down pat: quality meat is tender, vegetables really come forward, curries exhibit clear flavors that are free of excess oils, the naan is an addictive foundation, and the basmati rice is light, fluffy and perfumed with cumin and cloves.
   Chaats, which typically would be eaten as a snack and sold from a street cart in India, are transformed to appetizers to accommodate western eating patterns. Samosa chaat ($6) is a messy mix of smashed samosa, chick peas, onions and chutney. Similarly, tangy aloo tikki chaat ($6) is a mix of potato, chick peas, onions and chutney with a hit of cilantro. Both are zipped-up concoctions that would really hit the spot if kept at snack status, where they could be enjoyed apart from a full meal.
   Those better suited to whetting the appetite in preparation for the carnival of flavors still to come are the paneer pakora ($6), a true comfort food, and mixed vegetable pakora ($4). In the former, paneer, the delightful Indian cheese, seems to come alive as it is fried in seasoned chick pea flour. Mixed vegetable pakora, also a fried indulgence, is a plate of obscure shapes, inside which are cauliflower, spinach and potato, and eggplant.
   Curry dishes are consistently satisfying. Standouts include chicken curry ($13) and Méhék rogan josh ($15), a sultry lamb dish flavored with almonds and a blend of spices that Ms. Midha chooses to keep a secret. Aloo gobhi ($10), a vegetarian potato and cauliflower dish, is a bright preparation of the traditional and smells enticingly sweet. The complexity of garam masala and other seasonings draws out the flavor of both the potatoes and cauliflower, which are cooked to perfection.
   Saagwala (also known as saag) comes in a variety of forms on the menu. The base is a thick spinach puree that is paired with either paneer ($12), chicken ($14), lamb ($15), or shrimp ($16). The intensity of concentrated spinach becomes the backdrop for spices that come to the foreground. Méhék’s version is richer than others I’ve had, but delivers a lovely clarity and is especially pleasing with naan.
   The popular Méhék Mix Kabaab Grill ($19) is not to be missed by meat and fish lovers. It is an excellent assortment of tandoori specialties, most of which can be ordered separately as well. Chicken is transformed to exhilarating in a few different preparations. All were tender and juicy with the exception of the only chicken left on the bone. Of particular distinction are the meats and fish that have been marinated in yogurt and spices before entering the tandoor. Shrimp is delightful and the swordfish is absolutely delectable with its moist and meaty texture.
   As for service, it depends on which server is assigned to your table. Some are more helpful with navigating the menu than others. Our server was knowledgeable, helpful and had a relaxed manner that we found approachable. The kitchen will prepare dishes mild, medium or spicy according to individual preference, but courses may come out at rapid-fire speed. The most recent evening we dined, the pace did not reflect the appetizer/entrée pattern that one would expect based on the layout of the menu. On a previous visit, however, the pace was more on target.
   Dessert is, for the most part, aromatic ice cream and a handful of traditional Indian sweets. I enjoyed the subtlety of my ras malai ($5), homemade cheese dumplings cooked in flavored milk, but it’s not for everyone. Purists of Western-style desserts may prefer the ice creams.
   In the wake of its predecessor, Méhék offers high tea in the late afternoon, Indian-style. Take-out for dinner is a great option for locals although the take-out menu currently omits descriptions — an inconvenience that the restaurant is working on.
   As page one of the menu states, "The hospitality of Indians is legendary: the dictum of hospitality lies in three famous Sanskrit words: Attithi Devo Bhavah, or the guest is truly your god." While Méhék is rooted in age-old beliefs such as this one, it also exudes a sense of style. It is this mix of the traditional and the modern that sets Méhék apart from the rest.