The Restaurant Belt

In 2005, the TimeOFF Bucks County food reviewers delighted in dishes at an array of fine establishments.

Compiled by Matt Smith

TIMEOFF PHOTOS/MATT SMITH

TimeOFF’s reviewers enjoyed meals at new spots such as Earl’s in Lahaska (above) and old favorites like The Brick House in Newtown (below).

   Looking back at the year’s top restaurant reviews, "excellence"
was served up in a variety of ways, at a wide range of Bucks County restaurants.
The TimeOFF reviewers seemed to find the best meals in the late summer
and fall, both at new establishments and old favorites. Here is another visit
to some of 2005’s memorable culinary excursions:
Hotel du Village Route 32, New Hope, Pa.; www.hotelduvillage.comreviewed
4/22/05.
   
For all the times I have driven on River Road north of New Hope and admired the
handsome European architecture of Hotel du Village, I never really considered
eating there. Sometimes this is the problem with places that have been around
for decades — they are often overlooked in favor of newer, trendier places
that catch diners’ attention with the promise of fusing East and West, North and
South, or recreating traditional ethnic fare in a style befitting contemporary
American tastes.
   For our main course, we chose the New York sirloin with peppercorns,
cream and brandy ($22.95) and the duckling with cherries ($21.95). Perfectly cooked
to medium rare, the beef was well-trimmed and flavorful with a bit of char to
give it depth. We were both pleased with the duckling as well, its crisp skin
giving way to tender flesh, which was enhanced by the rich fruitiness of the cherry
sauce.
   We could tell by looking around the room that, save for one
other table, everyone appeared to be not just regulars, but part of an extended
family. The couple next to us received a complimentary loaf of bread to take home
for breakfast and, as they noticed our curiosity over this bonus, struck up a
conversation. They had been coming to Hotel du Village for nearly 20 years, at
first for special occasions, then about once a month since they moved to the neighborhood
a little over a decade ago.
   Finishing up with a firm, egg-y crème caramel ($6.50),
a densely rich and deeply chocolate mousse ($5.50), a cup of cinnamon tea and
a perky espresso, we had fallen into the rhythm of the place. If anything, it
made us a little envious of the other diners, who were content to return time
and again to enjoy the atmosphere and the meal instead of being lured away by
every new place that opens its doors. — Amy Brummer
EverMay on the Delaware 889 River Road, Erwinna, Pa.; www.evermay.comreviewed
8/5/05.
   
Nine years ago, Danielle and William Moffly bought EverMay from Fred Cresson and
Ronald Strouse. The Mofflys are only the third owners of the property and house,
which was built in the 1700s by the Stovers, a prominent family in the area. By
the time Fred and Ron came along, the property was run down and they set about
rescuing and restoring it to its former glory.
   Field greens with lemon vinaigrette and American spoonbill caviar,
from a prehistoric fish of the sturgeon family that is found in the Mississippi,
cleared the palate and readied us for our main dishes. Two of us chose the roasted
veal chop with English peas, morel mushrooms, mascarpone (a rich creamy but delicate
cheese) polenta and veal jus and the other two, the pan-seared black bass with
bean thread noodles, cherry tomato, red pepper and spice honey nage (aromatic
poaching liquid).
   The veal chop was firm and chewy, but I was even more entranced
with the accompanying yummy polenta and mushrooms, whose deep flavor much enhanced
the taste of the meat. The sea bass, which I tasted, was perfectly cooked, savory
and completely without bones, while the noodles were sweet with the taste of honey.
   I am happy to report that EverMay continues to live up to its
name: the food is still remarkable and the atmosphere is still hopelessly romantic,
ensured by the fact that the proprietors do not accept dinner parties of more
than six people. A surreptitious glance around the room confirmed that many of
the diners of all ages were holding hands. A glass of wine, a gourmet meal and
a hand to hold — what more can one require? — Scotia McRae
Arianna Miles 243 Old Bethlehem Road, Quakertown, Pa.; www.ariannamiles.comreviewed
8/26/05.
   
The exterior of the 18th-century inn is simple and charming, giving way to a sophisticated
dining room that mixes rustic warmth with clean contemporary décor. The
upstairs houses six rooms and offers a gourmet breakfast to its guests. While
small in size, the restaurant maximizes its space with three separate areas —
a bar, a main dining area with five tables for four, and a smaller section off
to the side with three intimate tables for two. We sat at a two top, nestled down
in oversized armchairs next the fireplace, and it was quite easy to imagine basking
in its radiant warmth in the depths of winter.
   For our entrées, we chose the honey-chipotle salmon ($24,
full portion only) and half portions each of the Argentine strip steak ($36 full,
$20 half) and the grilled scallops en papier ($26 full, $15 half). The salmon,
velvety in texture and paired with crisp char-grilled pencil-thin asparagus, was
lemony and rich served atop rice, which soaked up the juices. The exquisitely
seasoned and grilled steak, on the other hand, was accompanied by a bright salsa
of grilled corn and tomatoes with a lively lime zing, with rice adding a perfect,
nubby textural element to the dish. The scallops, wrapped in phyllo, grilled and
set atop a dollop of fluffy wasabi mashed potatoes, were a different sensation
altogether — the crispy wrapper retaining the flavor of the silken shellfish,
which was surrounded by a luxurious emulsion of carrot and fennel.
   With our senses so divinely sated, we seemed to float home in
a dream. Perhaps one night we’ll stay over so that dream continues when we wake
up. — A.B.
Pane e Vino 52 E. State St., Doylestown, Pa.; (215) 348-9000; reviewed
9/9/05.
    Just like the end of a presidency, Roosevelt’s Blue Star has
finished its term and handed the reigns to new leadership. The beloved Doylestown
restaurant, which was one of the first to spur the revitalization of the borough
with its blend of contemporary American cuisine and quirky presidential memorabilia,
closed earlier this year. But its passing is softened by the arrival of Pane e
Vino, which charmed us from the moment we arrived.
   Instead of indulging in both a pasta course and a main course,
we both chose pastas as our entrée. The main course selections include
several veal dishes, and the grilled veal with lemon and olive oil ($20) sounded
excellent, as did the grilled salmon with lobster brandy sauce ($20) and the filet
with gorgonzola cheese ($24). While the sautéed chicken breast with mushrooms
and Fontina cheese in a Marsala sauce, or with bell peppers in wine sauce (both
$17), sounded sort of plain, we were fairly sure that the preparation would be
delicious.
   From a selection that includes black ravioli filled with lobster
($16), homemade gnocchi with tomato or gorgonzola ($16) and fettuccine with shrimp,
artichokes and sun-dried tomatoes ($19), we chose the linguine fruitti de mare
($18) and pappardelle with filet and mushrooms ($19) and a side order of broccoli
rape ($4). Chock full of treasures of the sea — mussels, cockles, tender
squid and plump shrimp — the al dente linguine was permeated by the spicy,
briny tomato sauce. The pappardelle, by contrast, was earthy and creamy with chunks
of melting, perfectly seasoned filet and mushroom mingling seductively with the
wide, toothsome noodles.
   With its moderate prices, delightful service and delicious food,
Pane e Vino is sure to become as beloved as its predecessor. We look forward to
returning for its simple pleasures and uncompromising commitment to excellence.
— A.B.
Restaurant 552 552 Newtown-Washington Crossing Road, Newtown, Pa.; www.552restaurant.comreviewed
9/16/05.
    One of my favorite essences, lavender has a flavor as distinct
as it is elusive — sweet, spicy, musky and floral — and I am delighted
any time I see a chef put it to use. At Restaurant 552 in Newtown, Chef Michael
Kanter invokes the history of the 18th-century flagstone dwelling (which, before
its most recent turn as the Stonehouse Bistro, was known as Lavender Hall) by
sprinkling a bit of the purple flower into his contemporary American menu.
   For our main courses, we bypassed the filet with baby vegetables,
the smoked miscovy duck and the rack of lamb for Chef Kanter’s fish of the day,
a whole snapper in a tomato saffron broth ($35). We also chose the roasted diver
scallops with braised short rib ravioli in a red wine reduction from a menu that
includes preparations of snapper, swordfish, halibut, tuna and salmon as well
as a crab cake and a one-and-a-half-pound Maine lobster. Juicy and mild, lightly
infused with the herbs stuffed into the cavity, the fish was delicate and simple,
and mingled nicely with its gentle sauce. The scallops were on the other end of
the spectrum. Firm and sweet, they mirrored the meatiness of the ravioli, and
both components were heightened by the tang of the red-wine reduction.
   Even though it was quiet the night we were there, we figured
this sophisticated newcomer would quickly become a "hot spot" in the restaurant
scene and a drive-by on a recent Friday night proved it — the ample parking
lot was filling up fast. — A.B.
The Brick Hotel 1 E. Washington Ave., Newtown, Pa.; www.brickhotel.comreviewed
11/18/05.
The building itself, originally a residence, dates back to 1762, and has been
a tavern, hotel and restaurant over the years. The entrance is striking, with
an attractive garden in the front (there is outside dining when weather permits)
and an enclosed, heated porch running the length of the building. However, it
is the menu, the variety and quality of the dishes and the attractiveness of presentation
that makes the restaurant.
   The appetizers present difficult choices, since they are not
what you see on most menus and all sound delicious. Items such as brie-based petite
grilled cheese ($9), chipotle-encrusted Ahi tuna ($12) and Kobe beef sliders ($15)
are typical of the choices offered. The entrée options presented the same
difficult choices as the appetizers. My wife, Rose, chose the caramelized salmon
($27), a generous portion of Atlantic king salmon that had a caramelized crust,
served with coriander rice, grilled baby endive and orange fennel nage (a light,
shellfish-based stock). She thought it was great. I chose the bouillabaisse ($28),
served in a large, flat bowl with the shrimp, scallops and diced potatoes in the
center and Prince Edward Island mussels surrounding them on a bed of saffron broth,
accompanied by a truffle crouton. The seafood was nicely cooked and the broth
was outstanding — my only complaint was that there was too little broth.
I would have preferred twice as much and less of the seafood.
   With attentive service, beautiful surroundings, upscale place
settings, live music wafting in from the lounge and great food, The Brick Hotel
offers a true fine-dining experience. — Richard Burns
Earl’s Route 2002 and Street Road, Lahaska, Pa.; www.earlsprime.comreviewed
11/25/05.
   
The future has arrived in the form of Earl’s, a steak and seafood restaurant geared
toward contemporary tastes and sumptuous appetites. We called for reservations
on a Saturday night and were told the restaurant was fully booked, nothing until
the following Saturday, and even then only a few spots were left, which only made
me anticipate the meal more.
   We ordered two reds by the glass, a rich, juicy Shooting Star
Zinfandel and an oak-y Samantha Star Pinot Noir (both $9). We knew these would
go well with our entrées, a double cut Colorado lamb chop ($19) and one
of the specials, a rib eye served over an apricot glaze ($40). The lamb chops
were practically fork-tender and mild, served with a demi-glace, hearty mashed
potatoes and a side of mustard-y sautéed bok choy, the vegetable of the
day. The steak was a showstopper, perfectly cooked to medium rare, equally tender,
with a deep meaty flavor that was coaxed to a higher level by a nice char.
   Portions are large, and we were judicious about not eating too
much in order to enjoy dessert. We were glad we did. A chocolate torte ($6) was
like a large, dense truffle — dark, fudge-y and indulgent. The tiramisu ($8)
was a knockout — a quivering square of custard and cake, rich and airy all
at once with just enough sweetness to keep it interesting. A strong brewed coffee
($2.50) was a good complement to both. The atmosphere, enhanced by live jazz in
the bar on Friday and Saturday nights, made it worthy as a destination. —
A.B.
Sita’s 49 Cambridge Lane, Newtown, Pa.; (215) 579-3000; reviewed
12/9/05.
   
Like most Indian restaurants here and in the tourist parts of India, only North
Indian food is offered. Nevertheless, the offerings provide great choices.
   A range of tandoori dishes includes the traditional tandoori
chicken ($13.95), in which a chicken is marinated in yogurt and spices, placed
on a long spit and roasted in the tandoori oven. Seekr-kebab ($14.95), minced
spiced lamb, chicken tikka ($13.95), boneless chicken and tandoori shrimp ($19.95)
are among the other tandoori dishes available. My favorite is the garlic-boti
($15.95) made with large pieces of lamb that are marinated in garlic and then
cooked in the tandoori.
   Whether you are a vegetarian or not, you will find the vegetarian
offerings unusual and delightful. Mushroom muttar ($10.95) presents mushrooms
and peas cooked with tomatoes, onions, herbs and spices. Aloo-palak ($10.95) is
a delightful dish of spinach cooked with potatoes, onions and spices. Our choice
is a popular dish called bengan-bharta ($10.95) in which eggplant is cooked with
tomatoes, herbs and spices into a fine textured paste with a distinctive, delightful
taste.
   Sita’s is an outstanding restaurant. It offers what most successful
restaurants do: top-flight, fresh ingredients (including the use of fresh spices
and herbs that are blended in-house); effective, hands-on management that is concerned
about customers; and consistently excellent food. If you like Indian food, you
will love Sita’s; if you have not tried Indian food, Sita’s is the place to learn
about quality Indian cuisine. — R.B.