Il Sol Tuscan Grill

Unique Tuscan fare and creamy Italian desserts contribute to a lively atmosphere at this Newtown, Pa. spot.

By: Amy Brummer

   It is hard to capture the warmth of a Tuscan sun on an icy winter night, but our recent meal at Il Sol in Newtown, Pa., did wash away some of the seasonal chill with a lively menu and festive atmosphere. The night of our meal, there was a party in the large middle room, and as we walked to our table past a buffet of hot and cold appetizers, our interest was immediately piqued. Jazz pianist Barbara Trent was holding court in the bar area and the sound of her exuberant vocals added to the hum and chatter of the room on a busy Saturday night.
   Seated in one of the back dining rooms, we took a few moments to look at the menu before ordering a glass of the house Montepulciano ($5) and the house Pinot Grigio ($6). A plate of diced tomato and olive oil with crostini arrived with our drinks, and we were surprised by the flavor of the rather pale winter tomatoes, the kitchen having coaxed the flavor out of them with just enough salt to keep them from tasting briny.
   The menu lists several cecchetti — small tasting plates that give diners the option of crafting a unique dining experience of many tastes, or sticking to a traditional appetizer and main course. Interesting choices include salmon and tuna carpaccio ($10), marinated mushroom and asparagus ($7), garlic lime clams ($9), and prosciutto purses with a limoncello sauce ($6).
   We chose to each split a hot and cold cecchetti as a prelude to the main course. We began with an air-dried beef ($8) plated over greens with figs and shaved Parmesan and a tuna tartar ($10). The tuna arrived silky and pink, with a fresh flavor accented by the jamminess of an onion confit. The dried beef was equally lovely in its presentation, and the thin burgundy slices draped over the peppery greens had an enjoyable balance when combined with the sharp cheese and sweet, firm figs.
   Unquestionably, the star of the second course was the calamari fritti ($7), the tiniest, most delicate rings of squid I have ever seen, piled in a little tangle on a square black plate. The accompanying tomato sauce was piquant but did not detract from the subtle flavor. Penne with sausage ($5) was less exciting, but not because of the combination of peppery arugula and earthy mushrooms that rounded the dish. The pasta had cooled off considerably by the time it reached the table, which dulled the texture and taste.
   Main courses also had a mix of ups and downs. From a range of choices including hickory-grilled salmon ($16), crab ravioli ($17), a veal chop ($27) and crispy fire roasted duck ($26), we chose a strip steak and sea scallops, a special that night. The strip steak ($25) billed as being finished with "olive tree dust and sea salt" was perfectly cooked to medium-rare and was a beautiful cut of meat. Unfortunately, the olive tree dust and sea salt never registered past the demi-glace that blanketed it, but the risotto of the day, sun-dried tomato/mushroom and spinach, made up for it with its perfectly creamy, al dente texture and rich flavor. Sea scallops ($20) were firm, sweet and juicy, but the hand-tied tortellini stuffed with potato that garnished the plate were bland and again, too cold to appreciate.
   But the desserts helped end the evening on a high note — tiramisu and Italian rum cake ($5.95 each) were light, creamy and fluffy with true flavors that kept the sweetness in check. Our only complaint at this point was the server, who would disappear when we were looking for water, or coffee, and when she returned to the room, would keep her back to us so that it was difficult to get her attention. We flagged another waiter several times instead.
   For New Year’s Eve, Il Sol is offering a limited menu, with two sittings, one at 6 p.m. ($50) and one at 9 p.m. ($75), and Ms. Trent will be performing. The four-course meal looks to be a combination of its best dishes, and combined with the warm, lively atmosphere, it would make a good choice to cast off the short days of December and welcome in the New Year.