Aroma

Serving Thai food in an opulent atmosphere, this Franklin Park spot offers a surprise-filled journey

By:Antoinette Buckley

   Aroma is one of several Asian culinary ventures of husband-and-wife team Matinee and Jagmohan Singh. Others are Royal Thai in Edison, Royal Orchid in East Windsor, the trendy Noodle House in North Brunswick and, coming soon to North Brunswick, the Rupee Room (Indian American fusion). But for now, Aroma in Franklin Park is still the baby of the family. During its early stages, almost two years ago, the restaurant experimented with serving an Asian fusion kind of menu, before changing its concept to a Thai menu that is mostly traditional with contemporary moments. Following in the footsteps of sister Thai restaurants, Aroma has found a home in a familiar setting, but proudly keeps a personality of its own.
   The restaurant has an upscale feel with ornamentation that is characteristic of the Orient. Lots of gold around the restaurant suggests opulence. Bare wood tables gleam with lacquer and matching upholstered chairs lend a formal flair to the small space. At the table, weighty gold-plated cutlery and beige damask napkins reinforce the richness of the surroundings while a candle lamp on every table sets it all aglow. Mismatched with this setting are the faux flowers on every table and corny white serving dishes in the shape of ducks or fish that come seemingly out of nowhere when other serving pieces are gorgeous.
   The menu includes a hospitable introduction that likens the experience you will have at Aroma to a journey filled with surprises. And surprises do indeed come. The first surprise is a steamy white, fragrant washcloth delivered to each guest before beginning the meal. This mini spa treatment for the hands sets a mood of warmth and serenity as you share a meal with family or friends.
   Once cleansed, you are ready to take in all that follows. Tom kha kai ($4.95) is a traditional chicken soup that stirs up flavors of lemon grass, chili peppers and the soothing properties of coconut milk. It is served in an artful, gilded porcelain blue soup bowl that suits the complexity of the soup.
   The kitchen has frying down pat, as it should, since appetizer choices are mostly fried with one or two exceptions. Emerald pandan leaves ($5.95) (chicken wrapped in pandan leaves) are a favorite at the restaurant. We opted for the paper shrimp ($6.95) and stuffed chicken wings ($5.95). The paper shrimp come out of the fryer golden, crisp and grease-less, as do the stuffed chicken wings. In both of these, the components are more interesting than the whole of its parts. Paper shrimp are shrimp and cashews encased in an egg roll wrapper, fried and served with a mild sweet-and-sour dipping sauce. The stuffed chicken wings are composed with even more invention. Bits of a clear noodle (that look a lot like angel hair pasta) are combined with ground chicken, kernels of corn and hints of Thai spice, and then miraculously stuffed into a wing. After these (now oversized) chicken wings emerge from the deep fryer, they are served with the same sweet-and-sour sauce on the side. While appetizers are intriguing and well-executed, they lack intensity.
   Entrées are a different story. Bold, complex flavors are characteristic of the main dishes. The chef takes levels of heat seriously and is uninhibited by the American palate. When the server asks, "How would you like that cooked," medium-rare is not one of the choices. Instead, mild, medium or hot are the responses sought after. On the first visit, for those who approach heat cautiously, an unconscious strategy formulates in your mind before answering the question: Mild is tempting, but wimpy and may not represent the true intent of the food. Hot is out of the question since it is just too risky. That leaves medium as the only respectable answer. Therefore, medium it is. But this is no mild-mannered medium. And that is surprise number two.
   Seafood delight ($14.95) is a stir-fried mix of the sea that delightfully includes everything but the kitchen sink. Tilapia, shrimp, salmon, mussels, green peppers, onion and perfectly cooked squid come together under a matching peppery gravy that is underscored with Thai basil and garlic. Ginger chicken ($10.95) houses shreds of chicken, black mushrooms and onion in a sauce that is profoundly flavored with ginger.
   While main dishes in general evoke enthusiasm, it is the mee Siam ($9.95) that I can’t stop thinking of. A noodle dish with mixed vegetables, herbs, beef (optional) and the pivotal ingredient, coconut milk, satisfies a carbohydrate craving in an all-encompassing way. The complexity of spice is there, but so is the sweet, creamy offset of coconut milk.
   Desserts are not to be skipped and may even be educational. Steamed taro with coconut custard ($3.95) uses the taro root, which is akin to the potato. With the consistency of a wet flan, a subdued sweetness and a caramel sauce that nudges it along, this dessert skirts around delectable. But the sticky rice with mango and coconut sauce ($4.95) is just that — a dreamy mound of warm, fragrant rice flavored with the sultriness of sweet coconut sauce and paired with refreshing slices of fresh mango. It is unforgettable.
   Servers are poised and traditionally dressed. While not every server is conversational, service in general is attentive and aims to please. A sense of hospitality is carried through until the end of the meal when your bill arrives with a Hershey’s Kiss, giving gesture to the popular phrase, "sealed with a kiss," and locking in a third surprise.
   Aroma has matured since its beginnings. It is now focused and well thought out. For the guest, that translates to a satisfying journey at an exceptional value.