Vine

The emphasis here is on wine and fine dining, Mediterranean-style, in an unpretentious setting.

By: Kate and Tom O’Neill, TIMEOFF
The Vine is located on Route 202 in Basking Ridge, where the road is still a wooded country byway. The building long familiar as The Giraffe has undergone several transitions and is on the threshold of another. Renovations are in progress: by September, the restaurant should have a new look and a new name, Vine. On the August night we visited, parts of the building, including the bar area, were shut off and work was proceeding, but quietly. When renovations are complete, the redesigned bar will offer an informal dining alternative with eight or nine tapas selections.
The kitchen seemed unaffected by the distraction of construction. The Mediterranean-inspired appetizers and entrées and sublime French-accented desserts were well-conceived, executed and served with a smile. The watchword of the evening was "no rush," as the maitre d’ and his staff ensured a relaxed, enjoyable evening for the guests.
The room in which we dined was pleasant and unpretentious, tastefully decorated in beige and earth tones. Each table, draped in white linen, was topped with a single budding rose in a rectangular vase. At the time of our visit, the large picture windows had no curtains or shades, and the wide parking lot interrupted the view to the woods and road beyond. No art is hung on the walls; the emphasis here is on food and wine.
Service is deft, and we were taken care of by a four-tiered staff: maitre d’, captain, and two servers. When we arrived, the maitre d’, at his podium, was involved in a discussion with carpenters, but a nearby waiter smoothly stepped in with a friendly greeting and guided us to our table. In a few minutes, the maitre d’ visited to describe the evening’s specials including veal-filled ravioli ($22), blackened cod ($27) and rack of lamb ($33), and to review wine choices. The wine list is not only extensive and well organized, but also witty. The section devoted to listing champagne begins with the dying words of the economist John Maynard Keynes, "My only regret in life is that I did not drink more champagne."
Perhaps inspired by Lord Keynes’ regrets and by the inventive dishes on the menu, we decided to splurge, not on champagne, but on a bottle of Puligny-Montrachet, reasonably priced at $66. Structured, complex and golden, this outstanding white burgundy lived up to its reputation. Ordering a bottle was our best choice because the selection of wines by the glass is limited to eight choices, mostly from California, ($7-$13) that do not reflect the wide variety of wines available by the bottle. Co-owner Antonio Trevigne later told us that the wine list is undergoing changes, as well, and will feature 40 wines at $40 or less to encourage the purchase of wines by the bottle.
We began dinner with a crab cake ($12) that combined the briny taste of the sea with a judicious selection of herbs and spices. It was sautéed to the requisite golden brown but was not entirely lump crab. Spinach salad ($11) was dressed with a fine vinaigrette, sweetened with sun-dried cherries to complement the dense, earthy iron taste in the baby spinach. The salad was crowned by two creamy, pistachio-encrusted boules of goat cheese, which contributed another delightful earthy note to the greens.
At first glance, the veal ravioli special ($22) was a straightforward presentation, but first glances can deceive. Chef Eric Gomez begins by simmering the veal in his own veal stock, fortified with red wine, adding a heady flavor to the meat. Then he replaces the usual pasta wraps with paper-thin wonton wraps. Just before serving, he tops the raviolis with a skim milk-truffle reduction that produces a fine, bubbly topping.
The sea bass ($25) from the regular menu was inspired by barigoule, a dish from southern France. The grilled filet was served atop a flavorful mélange of vegetables in which artichokes were the most prominent ingredient. A pesto sauce that added the perfume of basil to an already complex palette of tastes brought the dish together as a whole.
The desserts, from the accomplished hand of the house pastry chef Julie Casey, achieved the same high quality as the entrées. The crème brulée ($7.50) was perfectly done, with a crisp golden crust over the light, gently sweetened custard. The coconut chocolate tart ($7) delivered flavors loved since childhood – close your eyes and it’s a Mounds bar that graduated from charm school with the addition of a layer of flaky pastry to hold the warm chocolate together. Decaf machiatto espressos ($3) were thick and strongly flavored – an apt finale to a fine meal.

Food: Excellent
Service: Polished, friendly, helpful
Prices: Appetizers $7-$15, entrées $19-$33, desserts $7-$9
Cuisine: Mediterranean-American fusion
Atmosphere: Comfortable, upscale
Vegetarian and Vegan Options: Salads
Hours: Lunch: Mon.-Fri. noon-3 p.m.; dinner: Mon.-Thurs. 5-9:30 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 5-10:30 p.m.; closed Sun.
Essentials: Most major credit cards accepted; wheelchair accessible; liquor license; parking lot; helpful Web site.
Directions