By: centraljersey.com
It is a physically unusual space. In warm weather the outdoor patio is the place to be. Nestled between the Delaware Canal and Ingham Creek that passes underneath the main street of New Hope, it is a lovely, partially wooded spot that feels as if you’re privy to a well-kept secret. The brick patio shows its age, however, and as a result tables complete with white linens and candlelight can rock with the slightest pressure.
It’s to be expected when dining outdoors, but the main "indoor" dining room with a floor made of stone that is accented with brick and embedded upside down flowerpots is just as rocky. Depending on your perspective, that can be an annoying side effect of an old place or it can be a charming side effect of a place that is rich in history. Dating back to 1929, this is known as the first restaurant in New Hope. At that time it was primarily an open air space and named The Towpath House, Restaurant of Terraces. In the ’40s, one of the terraces was enclosed and a fire pit was built in the center of this tent-like room. Today this dining room is diverse with many outstanding features. The stone flooring (designed with the help of artist Bill Nye) is a standout, as is the far wall that was built around a tree during that 1944 renovation. As a result, an exposed tree trunk is part of the interior.
Paul Licitra has the pleasure of owning this landmark. He first bought the restaurant (then named The Towpath House) in 1980. He owned it for many years before he sold the restaurant and it became Esca, a name that may be familiar to some. Unable to stay away from his passion for sharing Italian food and his affection for this unique venue, Licitra bought back the restaurant two years ago and renamed it Tuscany at the Towpath House, in honor of the Italian region with which he fell in love.
The rustic atmosphere here is an appropriate match for the simple Italian food that Licitra lovingly prepares. He is a self-taught chef who learned much of what he knows from great Italian cooks like his mother. In his adult life he became accustomed to cooking for friends and backed up his enthusiasm for food with extensive travel through Italy. All that has now morphed into running Tuscany at the Towpath House.
Licitra keeps his menu straightforward with easy pricing and few choices, features that help make Tuscany at the Towpath House a breath of fresh air and a great value. His menu is set up in categories with prices attached. All starters are $10, soups and salads are $8, pasta dishes are $18, and entrees are $24, Licitra’s cap. Even the specials do not exceed $24.
Aside from lackluster bread delivered at the onset of the meal, the food is fresh and lively, a comfortable blend of the classics and the inspired. Licitra’s marinara sauce is bright and used as a building block for many dishes. Scallops arrabiata are provocative as they are wrapped with smoked pancetta and sit in a spicy version of the basic marinara sauce. The chicken Parmigiana special is a well-executed classic, also made with the house’s delicate marinara. Linguine that comes with the dish is lightly sauced, making less of an impact than the breaded focal point. "Less is more" seems to be the motto here. Nothing says that better than the chopped fennel and arugula salad dressed simply with lemon, olive oil, salt and pepper and a few mandarin orange slices. The ingredients speak for themselves.
The wild mushroom risotto special shows a pleasing depth with its nutty, creamy texture, the allure of wild mushrooms and intense perfume of truffle oil. While this is a highlight of the meal, the pork ossobucco Amarone is even more remarkable. A big shank sits at the center of the plate in a puddle of sauce. The dish is sparked with lemon, garlic and herbs. Tomatoes at the peak of the season sweeten the arrangement while a wedge of polenta adds textural diversity. The meat is fall-off-the-bone tender with flavor that seeps through. Homemade caponata served as a family-style side dish is an appreciated bonus to any meal.
Licitra keeps a small wine list that changes with the seasons. The house wine, a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, is fitting for the home style Italian food featured here. It is also the wine of choice when making the house’s sangria, a superb rendition, memorable in its fruity depth and refreshing body.
A tasting of tiramisu and flourless chocolate cake reveal that desserts are not a strong point. All else meets high standards for satisfying Italian cuisine. The personable and knowledgeable service is a good support for the food. Furthermore, management seems particularly appreciative of its locals.
