By Faith Bahadurian, Special Writer
I am so ready to be done with this cold weather and ready to finally welcome spring — aren’t you?
So I went looking for recipes that use spring’s tender greens, shoots, and roots. It used to be that on a warm spring day you’d see people along the roadsides, in the meadows and woods, and in still-fallow fields, in search of the wild whatever.
Tender greens and asparagus, fat mushrooms, or delicate grape leaves for stuffing, such was the bounty that drove our grandmothers and fathers out to forage.
Of course, you can still do that (and many do), as long as you find areas that have not been sprayed with pesticides or chemicals, but you also can go to a local market or farm, and enjoy the bounty, already picked and washed. Just remember, tender spring vegetables cook quickly, especially asparagus I’ve noticed, so test for doneness sooner than you normally would.
I always think of salmon in the spring, too, and can’t help turning to my copy of Canal House Cooks Every Day for the best ideas. Sure enough, the book’s Poached Salmon with Fresh English Peas & Morels sounds picture perfect for a spring dinner. What’s more, the book has been nominated for both James Beard Foundation and International Association of Culinary Professionals awards this spring, so I am crossing my fingers for our local talent. I also include the simple roasted rhubarb, to make quick work of that bundle of stalks you just cut or lugged home. It serves as a great dessert (or breakfast yogurt) topping, so I can’t see any of that going to waste in my kitchen.
Pumpernickel Bread
With Grated Black
and Rose Radishes
Adapted from “Green Market,”
Pamela Thomas, Stewart Tabori
and Chang (1999)
24 canapés
Note: These specialty radishes are somewhat large. If you can’t find them, just substitute smaller radishes, using several of each color you find. If you grate a typical radish with a red exterior, you will get the kick of color you need. F.B.
1 black radish (black outside, white inside)
1 Rose Flesh (China Rose) radish (white outside, pink inside)
6 thin slices pumpernickel bread
1 stick (½ cup) unsalted butter, softened
Coarse salt
Grate the radishes and either toss them together in a bowl, or if preferred, keep them separate and create two different color canapés. Spread each slice of bread generously with butter and quarter the slices. Top with grated radish, sprinkle lightly with coarse salt, and serve immediately.
Green Soup With Rice
Adapted from “French Vegetarian Cooking,”
Paola Gavin, M. Evans (1995)
Serves 4
You can use almost any salad green here, watercress, lamb’s lettuce (mache), purslane, any lettuce, spinach, or Swiss chard.
2 tablespoons butter
2 leeks, thinly sliced
¼ pound spinach, shredded
A handful of sorrel, shredded
3-4 lettuce leaves, shredded
1 medium potato, peeled and diced
5 cups stock or water
½ cup long grain rice
½ cup light cream
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Heat butter in a large pot and cook the leeks over moderate heat for 5 minutes. Add spinach, sorrel, lettuce, potato, and stock. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Force through a sieve or purée with an immersion blender, being careful of hot splatters. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Raise the heat, and when the soup is boiling, pour in the rice. Cook 18-20 minutes, until rice is tender but still firm. Stir in cream and serve hot.
Poached Wild Salmon
With Fresh English Peas
and Morels
Adapted from “Canal House Cooks Every Day,”
Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton,
Andrews McMeel (2012)
Serves 2
2 center-cut wild king salmon filets, 6-8 ounces each
1 cup white wine
Salt
4 tablespoons butter
4 ounces fresh morel mushrooms, cleaned (can substitute shiitakes)
½ cup shelled fresh English peas
½ cup heavy cream
Pepper
Small bunch fresh chives, finely chopped
Put fish skin side down in a deep, wide pan. Add wine, a generous pinch of salt, and enough cold water to cover the fish by a bit. Cover pan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce to medium-low and gently poach fish until just cooked through or barely opaque in center, eight to12 minutes.
Meanwhile, melt butter in medium skillet over medium heat. Add mushrooms and cook until they begin to soften, about three minutes. Add ½ cup of fish poaching liquid and the peas, and simmer until peas begin to soften, two to three minutes. Add cream and gently boil sauce until slightly thickened, about two minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
Using a fish spatula (with slots or holes), remove salmon from poaching liquid, and carefully peel off and discard skin. Serve salmon with peas, morels, and cream spooned on top and garnished with chives
Roasted Rhubarb
Adapted from
“Canal House Cooks Every Day”
Makes 2-3 cups to enjoy on its own or to spoon over thick yogurt, ice cream, or pound cake
2 pounds rhubarb
½ cup sugar
½ cup red wine
1 or 2 vanilla beans, split
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Thickly slice rhubarb and put it into a deep ovenproof pot. Add sugar, wine, and vanilla beans. Roast until very tender, about 30 minutes.
Faith Bahadurian blogs at http://www.packetinsider.com/blog/njspice/ (also www.twitter.com/njspice).
