La Fontana

Old World romance and a lavish menu give this New Brunswick star its charm.

By: Pat Tanner

   NEW BRUNSWICK — I had no idea that one of my guests at La Fontana — a fantastic palazzo of an Old World restaurant complete with white marble statuary, Venetian glass chandelier, and ceiling and walls of mirror and gold — is actually a successful romance novelist.
   A perfect setting for a scene from one of her novels, she declared — and insisted that "restaurant reviewer" makes an ideal pursuit for a heroine. With creative and gastronomic juices flowing, respectively, we proceeded to have a delightful if extravagant meal at this voluptuous Italian restaurant, which has graced downtown New Brunswick for 13 years.
   Both the staff and the clientele of La Fontana add to the illusion. Patrons are greeted formally by a captain who is turned out in a well-cut Italian suit. The service aims for that kind of old-fashioned gentility whereby all the men are made to feel like big shots and all the women beautiful. Some, but not all, of the female patrons on weekends show up in cocktail dresses — sometimes skimpy, often spangly. At a nearby table was one such group of impeccably turned out peacocks (uh oh: competition for our heroine!), all matching in appearance the ultra-thin, imported cigarettes with brightly colored papers that they smoked throughout dinner. (La Fontana, which seats 90 in one big room, allows cigarette smoking unless someone complains. However, the ventilation system is so powerful that that may not be necessary.)
   Resting on the carved mahogany bar that fills the restaurant’s rear wall are oversize decanters of grappa, which is often presented gratis at the end of a meal, when the captain ceremoniously extracts it using an improbably long, narrow pipe. We sampled one, infused with raspberries, which can best be described as deep pink fire in a cordial glass. The bar stocks more than 80 varieties; other after-dinner alternatives include a flight of four vintage Ports.
   The award-winning wine list here is so large a young heroine could grow old taking even a cursory glance at each page. Twenty-four wines are offered by the glass, including an organically grown chardonnay (Bonterra, from Mendocino County, $7). I thoroughly enjoyed a De Loach white zinfandel ($7), whose pretty pink color and hint of sweetness seemed an appropriate choice for any self-respecting romance heroine. A Zardetto prosecco ($11) would also have done nicely.
   La Fontana has received many accolades over the years, including a rating of "extraordinary" in the latest Zagat guide. I have to think this is based more on its lush and decadent ambiance, and not so much on cuisine.
   Although one companion thoroughly enjoyed an appetizer of wild mushrooms braised in Barolo wine, tomatoes and fresh herbs, I found it muddy tasting and overpowered by oregano. I much preferred my casserole of tender young calamari in a creamy champagne sauce, and another companion raved about her snails in an interesting reduction of Armagnac, saffron and curry. Pasta primavera was ordinary, except for its excellent asparagus. Appetizers are $12.
   There are two dinner menus and both consist of almost laughably large portions of dishes with fancy, pricey ingredients. But the menu that comes with the blessing of heart specialists at Robert Wood Johnson University Hospital keeps the preparation and accompaniments relatively simple. It features roasted chicken breast, grilled veal tenderloin and grilled sea bass, the last one over greens and white beans for $30. The regular menu is an all-out assault on arteries and fantasy, utilizing cream, foie gras, truffles, caviar, porcini mushrooms and the like. There are a number of more restrained and often interesting preparations, such as chicken with lavender honey and Swiss chard in balsamic vinegar emulsion ($28).
   But it seems more in the spirit of the place to be decadent, so I ordered the veal tenderloin "dressed" with foie gras and morels in a demi-glace and black truffle reduction ($30). This was very good indeed. Two fist-size hunks of meat, tender and nicely pink inside, were marred only by veins of fat. Each piece was topped with a generous slice of liver and the dish featured a delicious constellation of accompaniments: slices of moist polenta, Swiss chard, small onions, red kidney beans, roasted garlic and tiny red tomatoes. The sauce was winey and garlicky, with a hint of earthiness provided by the truffles.
   The main menu has three additional parts: Roman regional specialties, a tasting menu ($75) and "stravaganza cuisine," which offers five entrees at $45 each. We tried two. Cioppino, an aquarium-size collection of lobster, shrimp, clams, mussels, calamari and scallops, came nestled in a hollowed-out round of country bread. Not as soupy as most, it was moistened by a tomato concasse that could have used a flavor boost other than garlic.
   Wood-grilled Colorado lamb, from the same list, featured four double-cut ribs. Its herbed mustard crust was ruined by overly salty breadcrumbs, and the meat had that unfortunate mealy texture. Another veal dish, scaloppini with shrimp and porcini mushrooms in cognac sauce ($32), was perfectly executed, as succulent as it was lavish.
   La Fontana offers a great lunch deal on weekdays: $19.20 gets a choice of either appetizer and main course or main course and dessert from a wide range of choices.
   A romance heroine may well forego dessert, but not me. All of the 15 choices on the menu appear to be winners, but a particular standout was the rice pudding with crème caramel, with a wonderful vanilla and anisette custard. Desserts are $12. Everything at La Fontana is presented dramatically, nothing more so than dessert. While it is not unusual these days to see a fancy drizzle of a sauce or two, here they are likely to be in shades of brightest red, blue and green.
   Some may find La Fontana over the top, but probably not those with old-fashioned, Old World romance in their hearts.