The Knight House

Indoors or out, fine dining or casual, this Doylestown, Pa., restaurant offers an exciting contemporary menu that changes daily.

By: Sally Silverman

   WHEN chef/owner Jamie Hollander opened The Knight House in Doylestown three years ago, his goal was simple — to provide a place where one could get something good to eat, whether looking for a casual outing or a fine-dining experience.
   His approach to achieving the goal was more challenging: use quality ingredients and make everything from scratch. That means the ground beef for the burgers served in the bar, the bread and every sauce is all made in-house. Diners have the option of dropping into the casual bar in a pair of jeans or choosing the more upscale dining room, where the feel is more business casual.
   We chose the high road, bypassing the bar menu, and were seated in the upstairs dining room. Its blandness struck me immediately, and I was hoping that it wasn’t a foreshadowing of what the food would be.
   Although the building has the charm shared by many of State Street’s older buildings, little was done to warm the individual rooms. There are cloths and votive candles on the tables, and lush upholstered chairs, but the gray-and-white walls don’t do the room or the food justice. A fake brick wall in the upstairs dining room, that I understand is a recent addition, helps to warm up the room, and a piece of artwork on a distant wall gave me hope this might be a trend. The space is ideal for displays of local artwork, or any artwork equal to the quality and elegance of the structure.
   My spirits lifted as I skimmed the menu. I found five appetizers, called first plates, each of which sounded intriguing and appealing; a duo of soups; and three very different salads. The main plates were plentiful, with a varied offering that included fish, seafood, fowl and meat. Everything was described in mouthwatering detail, and many of the dishes reflected innovative pairings of unexpected ingredients.
   I started with the watercress and goat cheese salad ($10). The fair-sized portion of crisp watercress sprigs was tossed with lumps of goat cheese, tiny pieces of red onion and diced roasted crimini mushrooms. The light vinaigrette tasted vaguely of corn, and its sweet-and-sour essence was perfect with the peppery cress. My partner started with the grilled flatbread topped with sautéed shrimp ($9). Though he was very happy with his choice, I found the pita-like bread to be just a bit chewy, and the shrimp, mozzarella and tomato topping lacked the spark that the basil pesto promised.
   My main plate, the sesame-crusted yellow fin tuna ($26), was another winner. Handsomely served on a bed of creamy mashed potatoes enlivened with just a hint of wasabi, the three pieces of tuna were thick and firm. They were, as promised, well-crusted on the outside, ruby red on the inside. The light orange ponzu sauce, with a vaguely Oriental taste, provided an unusual and satisfying contrast.
   My partner chose the nut-crusted pork tenderloin ($25). The thick slices of meat arrived juicy and full of flavor, well teamed with the thick mustardy sauce that the menu called "caramelized." He was grateful for the buttery potatoes, mashed from Yukon Golds, that enabled him to enjoy every drop of the sauce. Carrots and leeks, simply slivered and sautéed, provided color and crunch.
   Dessert did not live up to the expectation created by the quality of the first courses. The vanilla bean cream brulée ($7) was well-topped by a golden layer of burnt sugar glaze, though the custard was not as thick as the classic version. It was attractively served with a long, thin buttery cookie flavored with cinnamon that played nicely off the vanilla. The wild berry puff pastry tart ($8) was not as light and flaky as it could have been, filled with an almost too generous portion of white chocolate custard and fresh strawberries.
   The menu is reprinted daily, with a good number of the dishes changing each day. For a more casual meal, diners can choose from the small pub menu in the warm and clubby bar. Service on the evening of our visit was adequate but could have been more polished. Considering the care that went into the rest of our meal, diners shouldn’t have to ask for additional silverware or more water.
   Upstairs, the new martini bar offers 25 martinis and twice as many vodkas in an intimate space, stuffed with oversized, cushy chairs and love seats. In fair weather, diners have the option of an outdoor patio with plenty of greenery. The wine list is compact and carefully chosen, with a red and a white wine bottle special offered at a discounted price each evening.
   Mr. Hollander does not want The Knight House to be considered only for special occasions. Fair enough. Consider it for a tasty bite after the movies, for lingering over an uncommon martini, for a good meal in the garden — or for a special occasion.
For directions to The Knight House, click here.